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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. no frills

    no frills Well-Known Member

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    Hah hah hah this is awesome!
     
  2. Tried and True

    Tried and True Well-Known Member

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    I agree, though I don't seem to be very diligent about culling the herd. Here's a watch that came my way through a friend in the military who offered to let me piggyback on a special order from Omega. It's not something I would have purchased on my own volition but I kind of felt obligated to accept his kind gesture and wouldn't feel right about flipping it. At least it's a Speedy, of sorts.






    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]
     
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  3. cchen

    cchen Well-Known Member

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    What don't you like about it? I wear my 312 almost daily.
     
  4. TradThrifter

    TradThrifter Well-Known Member

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    I like it, I just wish you would wear it on your wrist mate. That has to be uncomfortable.
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2014
  5. ctp120

    ctp120 Well-Known Member

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    My very modest rotation.

    [​IMG]
     
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  6. bkotsko

    bkotsko Well-Known Member

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    It is too big for my taste.
    I have a 6.75" wrist, so it wears big.


    With such a small wrist, I wear my other more manageable sized watches on my wrist, but this on my wrist as shown it does push into the back of my hand.
    If I wore it on my arm, as you suggest above my wrist, it looks and feels a little funny to me.
     
  7. Belligero

    Belligero Well-Known Member

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    Yes, he did get more than slightly carried away there; that type of writing makes me cringe. By the way, you'd think that someone so stoked about it would know that his watch's movement reference is 3186, not 3176.

    James Dowling did a good job of describing their operation when he toured it, though.

    Regarding the Odets review, I appreciate when someone has an opinion, even if I don’t agree with it. In this case, while focusing on the finishing, he manages to overlook nearly every single thing that makes a Rolex movement so well-designed. I haven't had a close look at a 3000, but the movements I've seen are well-finished. They just don't have elaborate decoration.
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2014
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  8. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Well-Known Member

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    That's a good looking strap. I agree it would've been nicer had it been less 'raised' in the middle.

    I've seen those lever/quick change springbars you mention; too bad they're not more commonly used. OFREI sells the Bergeon 30227 Pliers to punch a little hole in any strap to allow the use of quick change springbars, but it ain't cheap.


    Persistence is key.
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2014
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  9. RogerP

    RogerP Well-Known Member

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    It's been a good many years since I read the Odets article, but I as I recall, the criticism was not based on the absence of decorative finishing, but on the very crude level of finishing overall that did not seem commensurate with a watch at this price point. I do recall that he was impressed with the movement's accuracy notwithstanding its poor finish. Of course, my memory could be very faulty...

    One thing that had always impressed the heck out me with Rolex is that notwithstanding their huuuuge annual production volume, their watches consistently display superb out of the box accuracy, and seem to maintain that over the long haul.
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2014
  10. Belligero

    Belligero Well-Known Member

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    Good memory; that sounds about right. Odets describes in detail the defects and what he sees as cost-cutting in that particular movement. The thing is, I have a friend who's a full-time watchmaker, and although the 3000 isn't his favourite calibre from the company — "...but it's still a Rolex movement, so it's limited how bad it can be" — he hasn't yet come across one with those flaws. I'm not sure what happened to the one in the Odets review, but the mention of damage to the variable-inertia screws on the balance wheel suggests that someone ham-fisted was playing with it before Odets got it. There's no way that there should be any marks on them, let alone gouges. There's a simple tool that lets you adjust the balance weights precisely and without damage; you don't go stabbing at them with a screwdriver blade.

    [​IMG]
    image source: horologist.com

    While it has some valid points, the main problem with that review is that people take one person's limited perspective on a flawed movement as being representative of Rolex's normal production, which it isn't.

    Obviously, the cal. 3000 isn't going to win any beauty contests, but it's still a solid design. Its accuracy and consistency isn't simply due to luck.
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2014
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  11. RogerP

    RogerP Well-Known Member

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    I'm not sure that's a problem with the review, per se. There was much over-reaction to the article on both sides. Haters took it to mean that all Rolex movements suck mightily (which is certainly not the case), while fanboys - once they put back together their exploded heads - attacked Odets' character and integrity (which was objectionable and uncalled for) and hatched all manner of conspiracy theories (which was really funny).
     
  12. Sweden

    Sweden Well-Known Member

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    Back in the time I had a PAM104 and it was too big and felt like a toy :)

    Is Panerai just big watches or do they produce 40 mm and less?
     
  13. Dino944

    Dino944 Well-Known Member

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    They used to produce a few models in 40 mm cases. Its not a brand that I follow, so I don't know if they still do. One of my former ADs for Rolex, VC, JLC, Piaget, Lange, BP, Breguet and Panerai...said he couldn't give the 40 mm Panerais away once "Big watches" became popular.
     
  14. Sweden

    Sweden Well-Known Member

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    Haha ouch!

    I would gladly take a 40 mm Panerai for free :)
     
  15. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Well-Known Member

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    They had no choice if they still wanted premium movements. Although some did not start from scratch (e.g. TAG buying the right to produce and further develop a Seiko movement).
    Longines is part of the Swatch group, so it still ETA. I believe only Breguets and Blancpain in the Swatch group have their subgroup of watchmakers dedicated to develop esclusive movements, basically what is left of Lemania (I am a big fan of Lemania).
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2014
  16. RFX45

    RFX45 Well-Known Member

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    I believe it was the Pam 048 and 049 that was 40mm.

    I remember wanting it a few years back but it was still too big for my tiny wrists. I believe it was the one with a date bubble as well?
     
  17. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

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    Longines have some special movements just for them as a differentiator from the cheaper Swatch brands (Hamilton and Tissot) ranked just below. I think they sit Longines and Rado together in the lower middle, with Omega and GO above, then BP and Breguet. Or something. Anyway, the L688 column wheel chrono is made by ETA just for Longines. I want one.

    Also, you missed out GO. They do a lot in house. In a different country. I have some love for GO. But yeah, I'm sure there's still a lot of common sourcing.
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2014
  18. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Well-Known Member

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    Yes, but the Longines "esclusive" movements are still developed and made by the same ETA developers. The Breguet/ BP movements are developed and made by a different group (what is left of Lemania).
    I like many Longines watches and I also get watches based on movements
     
  19. stro

    stro Active Member

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    Excellent memory; seconds indicator, too. I remember coming across these when I first looked into watches. Confused the hell out of me because the 40mm I saw in person (a Luminor) felt "bigger" on my wrist than a 42mm (Radiomir). Started clicking around the watch-related corners of the internet to reconcile this oddity. Been lurking this thread ever since [​IMG]
     
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