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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. Keith T

    Keith T Well-Known Member

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    LOL GUILTY!

    :embar:



    Nice find, Hayward.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. no frills

    no frills Well-Known Member

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    At an event hosted by Bovet at their boutique here in NYC. Got to play with this one for a bit: the Ottanta tourbillon in red gold, a collab between Bovet and Pininfarina.

    [​IMG]

    At 46mm it dwarfs my 3970J, and at MSRP $340K it also dwarfs my 3970J's price. Still, they produce some interesting complications for women in the $20s to $50s range that might be appealing to some. Finishing was very nice.

    Also got to try a friend's new 5980/1AR. Got to tell you, I'm not a two tone guy and I'm not generally a big fan of the Nautilus chrono but this one looked handsome in person.

    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  3. no frills

    no frills Well-Known Member

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    All hail The Princess!
     
  4. Hayward

    Hayward Well-Known Member

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    More like she found me!
     
  5. GrassFedBeef

    GrassFedBeef New Member

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    I'm curious if you guy like the Darwin Aquatimer [​IMG]

    better than the Cartier Diver?
     
  6. Belligero

    Belligero Well-Known Member

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    To be honest, I wouldn't touch modern IWC with a barge pole.

    Regrets on being so negative; it's just that the Calibre de Cartier Diver, and IWC in general, represent everything that's wrong with the industry in my opinion, and those are two the most egregious examples of how Richemont has demolished some legitimate heritage in their quest to have Panerai-like growth across the board. The group is profiting handsomely from the bubble currently, but IWC and Cartier's appeal to serious collectors has never been lower, at least from what I've observed and read, and I see little potential for long-term appeal to either design. With the way they view their customers, it's no surprise that their service reputation is terrible as well.

    I think you would eventually have regrets about either watch; the bulbous fashion-diver IWC even more so. I say this because I care about watches, not because I enjoy being a downer.



    If you want a high-quality diver's watch that's not a Rolex, I would suggest looking at Audemars Piguet's diver's models instead. They're an independent family-owned company that I believe still has quality as their main focus, despite their insufferable limited editions in the Offshore range.

    Just please don't wear it with a suit.
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2014
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  7. apropos

    apropos Well-Known Member

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    On a more positive note re: limited editions - I kind of like this one:

    [​IMG]

    Think it will look fantastic on a whiskey perforated cordovan strap.

    Is it odd that I like I more than the non-LE? It's almost cheap enough anyway to be an impulse purchase. Hmm.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2014
  8. Dino944

    Dino944 Well-Known Member

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    I'm not really a fan of two tone men's watches, and I don't really care for the chronograph version of the Nautilus. However, I've seen it and I do think the combination of rose gold and steel, with that blue dial is quite striking in person.

    No I don't care for it at all. I agree largely with Belligero's assessment. I used to really like their products and wanted to add one to my collection someday. However, with their current direction, there isn't a model they make that is of interest to me any more. At this point, if I were to get an IWC, it would most likely be something from the 1990s or earlier.

    Sorry, for me changing the color around the subdials isn't an improvement. In addition, although I've said it before, they make far too many insignificant limited editions. Actually, I think the all black dial of the non-LE is much more appealing. Good luck with whatever you decide.
     
  9. RogerP

    RogerP Well-Known Member

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    Quote:Man, does that ever float my boat. WANT!
     
  10. tifosi

    tifosi Well-Known Member

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    I am not a fan of two tone watches. Sadly...not even when it is a Nautilus.
     
  11. jbarwick

    jbarwick Well-Known Member

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    Don't let us hate on watches you think look good and you would want to own. The last thing we would want is you spending $11K on a watch that pleases TWAT but you don't care for. I personally don't think that looks terrible but it is made of bronze which you may want to look into as it ages differently than other metals. As for it being a Limited Edition, that will not help it in the resale market as IWC tosses around the "Limited Edition" title like it should mean something.

    If I were you, I would make a list of things I want in a watch and then find something that fits the need. From your two posts, here it what I think you are looking for:

    1. A dive watch
    2. Something in the 42-45mm range
    3. Not just SS but another metal
    4. A date window
    5. A subdial
    6. Budget is somewhere around $10-$12K

    I think a Panerai would fit the bill personally. You may be able to find an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver or something similar as well but that may be over budget. Usually @mimo has piped in by now with a good suggestion to spend other peoples money!

    Oh...maybe there is a JLC that would work as well. There are others more versed on that brand but I think they have a wide variety of divers.
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2014
  12. jbarwick

    jbarwick Well-Known Member

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    4 people like this.
  13. no frills

    no frills Well-Known Member

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    ^^^ Hahaha, easy jbarwick my man! "Helping others by doing research" is dangerous for TWAT...

    tifosi - must be seen in person (if you haven't seen it already). I know the whole "pictures don't do it justice" line is overused, but as with most watches they really must be seen in the flesh before rendering a final judgment. I will even 'fess up to once saying "I will never own a sporty Patek watch like a Nautilus. Sh*t it's ugly. What's up with those ears? Ick." Then I saw the 5711 in person and, well, to this day it occupies quite a bit of time on my wrist, most lovingly.

    Pricing is a different issue. Some of the Nautilus chronograph prices - even for the all-steel versions - are a bit high for me.
     
  14. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    i think i could say i hate that PP two tone. why do that at all? : (
     
  15. tifosi

    tifosi Well-Known Member

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    Seeing it in the metal won't help it's case for me. Not a fan.
     
  16. stafa

    stafa Well-Known Member

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    This lunar dust edition of the Speedmaster is pretty sweet. I'm not sure I'd buy that particular watch if I was looking to spend $12k but that doesn't take away from how good it looks.

    [​IMG]
     
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  17. Keith T

    Keith T Well-Known Member

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    Speedmaster Mark II: intriguing to me. Digging the barrel shape.

    Tried to view at the local Omega boutique, but they still didn't have one as of a couple weeks ago.

    I'll be checking it out when it arrives for sure.



    And not to change the subject, but that Dark Side of the Moon was a real looker, IMO.

    I did not make the salesperson get it out of the glass case for a wrist check, but just as a first browse in real life, I thought it was "black-on-black" done very well.

    Retail seems a bit high, (was it also $12K?) but for ceramic / Co-Axial / sapphire / etc....probably not insane.
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2014
  18. ~ B ~

    ~ B ~ Well-Known Member

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    Hey Frilly, apologies for the delay. Wanted to firm up a few details before sharing further info. Thanks and will definitely keep you posted!

    Yep there're definitely lots of chances for not minor, but major customisations :D I'm a total bespoke addict so it kinda carries over into the watch world, where customization normally is impossible/impractical with mainstream brands or costs an atomic bomb with the independents. I'm trying to make my bespoke options more accessible in price while being even more special and unique.

    So a couple options which I've assembled -

    - bespoke cloisonne or champleve enamel dials by one of the top enamelists in the world
    - bespoke hand-painted dials by a friend of mine, also world-class
    - bespoke diamond gem (or other precious stones) setting by my friend who's the top bespoke jeweller in Singapore - he can get some really nice diamonds (prob more for the ladies but we can do a tasteful understated style for gents)
    - bespoke straps in exotic skins and with a single hole, by my in-house strap maker (included with watch)
    - bespoke watch winders

    and yes, bespoke engraving by hand on anywhere practical on the case, dial or movement. (I'll do this for you with compliments :D)

    I'm also looking to see if I can include a Russian Reindeer bespoke strap made by Cleverley (the shoemakers) like the ones sold on Hodinkee a few months ago, but this is a little tricky as the supply fluctuates a lot. If it's available when the watches are ready I'll definitely include it, otherwise it'll be a strap of similar coolness.

    I believe that these options are not offered by any of the big or medium sized brands, and certainly not at the quality I've managed to source. So I'm really excited to see clients push these options to the limits! :slayer:

    Another cool development is that I'll be producing a tourbillon too, and a very special one at that. This tourbillon will be the thinnest full-rotor automatic tourby in the world with a movement thickness of 3.95mm (the Piaget Emperador Coussin Tourbillon was the thinnest prior to this - and it was a micro rotor automatic, and was 5.5mm thick).

    Not just that, this elegant flying tourbillon movement will -

    - have a variable inertia balance (commonly known as Gyromax) which is used for high-grade watches

    - have a tourbillon carriage made entirely of titanium, very difficult to make (just ask Richard Mille)

    - have twin barrels for a high power reserve

    - have the finest haute horlogerie finishing available - e.g. circular graining everywhere, beveled bridges and decouvertes (the screw holes) that are chamfered by hand with a piercer just like how Dufour does it, instead of being diamond polished.

    and of course it'll be housed in an elegant, vintage-inspired dial and case, in common with the Seraphim perpetual calendar

    On the subject of the perpetual calendar, I'm only doing 25 pieces and so far no 1, 2, 4 and 25 have been spoken for. So do let me know which serial number you'd like and I'll reserve it for you, no commitment needed at this point.:)
     
  19. Dachshund

    Dachshund Well-Known Member

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    This is an AWESOME watch. I had forgotten all about it so thanks for the reminder. I was looking at it a while back but ended up getting my E2 instead as at the time the JLC wasn't quite available yet and projected to be a bit over budget. It is now next on the list. Do we think the ceramic version is worth the extra few £££?
     
  20. robinsongreen68

    robinsongreen68 Well-Known Member

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    someone id this watch for me please? a female colleague asked but i wasn't sure, some type of omega i think?

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2014
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