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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. Dino944

    Dino944 Well-Known Member

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    Hi Academe,

    I was at an AP Trunk show this past weekend, and I met AP's retail director, Jasmine Bapic. She is very lovely. They had several novelty pieces from SIHH, in addition to their current models. She informed me that now they were only producing the Jumbo, or Jumbo variations in 39 mm cases, and that the RO Dual Time and RO Day-Date were out of production. However, Jasmine said they still have some available in their stock, but once the stock is gone it is gone. They had a blue dial RO Dual Time in the boutique (price had gone up from what I recalled it was now $22K USD), and it was quite handsome. On some level she seemed to suggest AP wanted to move away from watches where they do not produce the movement themselves, as she said something to the effect that those watches used movements from outside AP (although that never bothered me). As you know the Dual Time and Day-Date both use JLC based movements. The ultra thin Cal 2120/2121 was developed by JLC, but AP owns the rights to it, and AP produces it itself in house. It made me wonder if they will change the 41mm ROC movement as that is still based on the F.Piguet 1185. I did try on the blue dial Dual Time and thought it was really handsome. Both its case and bracelet are thicker than that of the Jumbo, so it has a different feel, even though both are 39mm. I think if I traveled more I might give the Dual Time more serious consideration while there are new ones still available.

    PS... I just checked the website this morning and the RO Day-Date is also still listed as part their collection.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2014
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  2. academe

    academe Well-Known Member

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    Yes; I've seen press releases and Ms Bapic certainly is...charismatic; just what you need for a very public retail director. :D

    Interesting trend that they are moving towards only using in-house movements exclusively. I suppose VC and others have done the same, although quite honestly given that they used to own a large share in JLC and have such high levels of finishing on all their movements, this has never bothered me either. The blue-dialed Dualtime is very handsome. I was torn between the two. The austerity of the white-tailed version that I own eventually won the day, but I do catch myself second guessing myself the times that I've seen the blue-dialed Dualtime again.

    I wonder if a shift to an in-house chrono replacement for the AP ROC will result in price hikes? Seems the norm when watchmakers are trying to recoup the R&D costs, though certainly AP have priced themselves very competitively vs Patek, VC and AL&S over the years...
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2014
  3. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Well-Known Member

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    I love a simple diver watch, my recent purchase:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2014
  4. Dino944

    Dino944 Well-Known Member

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    She didn't explicitly say that they were moving toward using in-house movements, so I don't want to put words in her mouth. However, what she said above, and the way she said it seemed to suggest they are moving away from outsourced movements. The Day & Date is actually a design that dates back to the 1980s, and the Dual Time was originally in some AP dress watches in the late 1980s and it was eventually released in a 36mm RO case, I believe in the early 1990s. IIRC AP still owned its 40% stake in JLC when these variations were released many years ago. I think with part ownership there was less issue in the minds of some about it not being a movement made by AP. However, consumers tend to be less forgiving these days about watches not using in house movements, even though for instance its often not something that makes one watch better than another. The movement and finish on the Dual Time RO and Day & Date RO are far finer than what one will find inside a Rolex or Omega with in house movement. So IMHO, the fact that Rolex or certain Omega watches use in house movements, doesn't make them better watches than a Dual Time RO, even though a Dual Time's base movement is from JLC.

    I've never been bothered by a company using an outsourced movement as long as its high quality. Some of my watches used base movements from Zenith, JLC, F.Piguet, and Piaget. As for VC, they are moving toward more in house pieces, but they still use some outsourced movements, their cal 1120 is licensed from AP, their Dual Time uses JLC's movement, and their Overseas Chronograph uses F. Piguet's 1185.

    I guess only time will tell what will happen with AP's ROC, but that is currently one of their last pieces using an outsourced movement.

    The the RO Dual Time looks great in each of the colors they offer it in, so there is no need to second guess yourself. You made a great choice. If you don't currently have a watch with a blue dial its something I'd recommend, but that is always something you can add to your collection at a later date.
     
  5. TC (Houston)

    TC (Houston) Well-Known Member

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    Don't get me wrong, I really like the watch, I just haven't been wearing it very often because it's a little too big for suit wear and I've been rocking the hell out of my Big Pilot and 15400 on the evenings and weekends. I've been toying with the idea of putting the rubber strap back on, and that's when I sorta started itching for the diver. That AP bezel is really addictive. It's kind of a moot point, my 112 is dinged up enough that it's probably worth more to me than I would get on sale/trade.
     
  6. academe

    academe Well-Known Member

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    The nice thing about the PAMs is that they look good with different pairs of shoes, so may be swapping back to rubber may give your 112 a new lease on life?

    I fully understand the RO addiction. When they first released the diver and later variants (forged carbon, etc) I seriously considered acquiring one simply because I love my RO so much that I thought it would be great to have a sportier version for causal wear. Happily for my wallet, I've decided to stay the course and go for a 2 or 3 hand dress watch/ultra thin. But who knows what my futures holds? ;)
     
  7. no frills

    no frills Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
     
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  8. academe

    academe Well-Known Member

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    As a bit of an aside, as a PAM collector, any thoughts on the new PAM 560 (Luminor base with new in-house P5000 hand wound movement)? Read a review of the new in-house Luminors here and was curious. I especially liked the titanium PAM 564. I'm secretly hoping that the narrower profile of the new P5000 watches may mean that the 44mm cases won't swamp my 6.75" wrist. Or may be I should wish otherwise... ;)
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2014
  9. TC (Houston)

    TC (Houston) Well-Known Member

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    You talked me into it, I'm going to do it. When its back on the rubber then Mrs. TC will wear it too, which is a good thing.

    Since my Sub isn't available to me now (sized for Mrs. TC), I've gotten a slight itch for a diver or 42mm ROO. But I should try not to get distracted and continue to focus on working toward a gold watch for my next piece. I'm really happy that you guys talked me into the 15400 over the 26320. The 15400 does perfect dress duty for my purposes--very exciting for me every time I put it on, but pretty much a sleeper if you aren't a hardcore watch enthusiast.
     
  10. Hayward

    Hayward Well-Known Member

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    Might have a wrist shot tomorrow. I've been getting Hadley Roma straps fron Lone Star Watch Straps for a while now.

    [​IMG]

    Nice watch, but why are they confusing their history? THIS is a 57 Speedmaster:

    [​IMG]

    Then they had the homage reissue that they unfortunately named the "replica". I had one of these. I loved the dial, but the broad arrow hands blocked reading of the subdials and the movement on mine was a lemon:

    [​IMG]

    Seems to me these "new 1957s" could stand on their own without reference to earlier models which are nothing like them.

    Was Dufour responsible for Zenith returning to its design roots, or for those monstrosities of the early 2000s?
     
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  11. Belligero

    Belligero Well-Known Member

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    No, that wack shit is squarely on Thierry Nataf. I actually like some of the stuff they've made after Jean-Frédéric Dufour became boss. They have a pretty good lineup these days compared their competitors.
     
  12. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

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    Daytona El Primero Striking 10ths for Basel 2016?

    Seriously though, Rolex wins the more it stays the same. They've made fat cases, they've made more precious metal and blingy versions to maximise the higher-margin opportunities with pimps and professional sportspersons, and they're working their way through the retro book. How much deviation can the brand stand? It would be a very brave (and I suspect, soon unemployed) man who really set out to revolutionise Rolex.

    I think we can take a new "coke" GMT as red in a couple of years (but it will probably be platinum or something), some new colours, some more 41mm versions of the DJ and DD, maybe a super-sized Explorer? But my special request: 39mm no-date Oyster with a new super-dark blue "sunray" dial and sticks. I'm a man of simple pleasures. This year's 36mm grey one is pretty nice as it is, but that would be perfect.

    What could they do that's crazy? A new PVD sports watch? Titanium Subs?
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2014
  13. Cleav

    Cleav Well-Known Member

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    Close as i can get, today @mimo Hope you're well friend?

    [​IMG]
     
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  14. Hayward

    Hayward Well-Known Member

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    I see the new Sea Dweller and 36mm Oyster Perpetuals as a sign of hope. They and the white dial Explorer II seem to be the best designed models in the lineup apart from the new Cellinis.

    If Rolex were to start making Titanium watches, then they need to figure how Seiko does it. They're the only manufacture that has been able to make luxury finished titanium watches.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. dbln79

    dbln79 Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    It's been a while. I've missed wearing this.
     
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  16. TheWraith

    TheWraith Well-Known Member

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    There's that beauty again :inlove:
     
  17. apropos

    apropos Well-Known Member

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    Has anyone seen the new Nomos Metro in the flesh?

    If so, any opinions? :slayer:

    [​IMG]

    I think it's quite handsome in a quiet way. Sort of like the colour scheme though I'm sure some will find it a bit off putting.

    Diameter at 37mm may appear a bit small(er) at first glance but because of the thin bezel it will wear larger I'm sure. Just looking for RL handling feedback/experience from anyone, if possible.

    Can only think of one drawback right now - movement is obviously a little small for the case, but I can live with that.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2014
  18. Cleav

    Cleav Well-Known Member

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    Thanks mate, must remember to wind in the crown, doh!
     
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  19. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

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    Just noticed the typo...appropriate I suppose!

    @Cleav I'm well, thank you, and that will do nicely!
     
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  20. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Well-Known Member

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    Beautiful and elegant combination. Always classy!
     
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