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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. akatsuki

    akatsuki Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the collection of links. Initial thoughts...

    Cartier came out heavy with a ton of new designs:
    • I dislike the skeletonized Tanks - it is hard to see the time, and I think this matters a lot to me. Perhaps the contrast between arms and background is greater than what is shown in the picture.
    • Rotonde Day and Night is the most interesting, but the moonphase at the bottom feels too modern versus the top - sort of Dr. Jekyll/Mr. Hyde approach
    • Calibre Diver - this one is a bit hard for me. The Calibres have always felt they are trying too hard, but, at the same time, they are not vanilla like so many others. May have to see in person

    Jaeger
    • Hybris 11 looks sweet. Could be slightly smaller than 42mm, but this, to me, was the clear star of the show.


    Lange
    • Terraluna - not sure about this one either. Overlapping dials look a bit confused and busy. Moonphase on the back is just beyond pointless
    • Saxonia MOP - the editor wishes they were larger because of this stupid trend of women wearing men's sized watches. That trend can die a million deaths right now.

    Montblanc
    • Meisterstück Heritage Perpetual Calendar - they should be embarassed to show this watch - the dials are so pressed into the middle, it is obviously a tiny movement in a large case
    • Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage Pulsograph - looks pretty good on the other hand


    And Hodinkee should stop printing press releases as articles. The guy never met a watch he didn't gush over (witness the Bremont Codebreaker article - a $22K steel Valjoux watch)
     
  2. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Well-Known Member

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    Sometimes I switch it to a croc dark brown but I think this one gives a more casual look. I like. [​IMG]

    You can see it a bit on this pic.

    [​IMG]
     
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  3. no frills

    no frills Well-Known Member

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    In honor of Nuke's FYI about the Hodinkee article on perpetual calendar chronographs I am wearing this beauty today.

    [​IMG]
     
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  4. Cleav

    Cleav Well-Known Member

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    @Betelgeuse thats a great pic there :nodding:

    Frills :slayer:
     
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  5. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Well-Known Member

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    Thanks!

    And I second Cleav on @no frills watch!
     
  6. Newcomer

    Newcomer Well-Known Member

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    Hey Frills, you are missing a chronograph pusher!


    Made you look
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2014
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  7. no frills

    no frills Well-Known Member

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    HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Dino944

    Dino944 Well-Known Member

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    Vacheron makes the 1921 American, which is a cushion shaped case, although it does not use wire lugs. Beautiful watch, but the price has skyrocketed over the last few years. When originally released its MSRP was around $24,995 now its about $40K.

    Its important to remember that years ago watch collecting interest and prices were not anything close to what they are today (back in the early 1980s, very complicated PPs, VCs, and APs were selling for $2K-4K. No one wanted them. They were old technology). In the early 1990s a two tone Sub listed for $5K but could be purchased new all day long from ADs for $3,500. These watches had hollow center links and the old style clam shell bracelet attachment rather than solid end links. These were good solid watches, but they were relatively common and no one babied them back in the day.

    People actually wearing their watches, not babying them, etc, is one of the reasons that vintage watches in pristine condition are so rare. People didn't buy PPs, APs, and VCs to put in a safe and wait for values to go up. They wore, them, banged them up, lost them [​IMG], and they were not considered the assets that they are today. Today people purchase new models and put them in their safes...waiting for values to increase. They will never be as rare as vintage models from the 1980s and earlier when people wore their watches and didn't baby them. There will almost always be plenty of new or like new high end watches available even when production of a model ends....because so many have been put away in safes and never worn.
    Most of those watches didn't interest me at all. The Cartier Day/Night is an interesting watch, but not as pretty as the original model from 2006, which was part of the Privee Collection. The original model had a more elegant guilloche, didn't have the distracting moon phase indicator at the bottom of the dial, nor did it have the protruding rectangular plate with the Cartier name on it. A friend of mine has the original 2006 Rotonde Day/Night and IMHO it just might be the most interesting and elegant round dress watch I've seen. Even a few watch snob acquaintances that are usually only interested in the "Big Three" looked into acquiring one, but acted too late to get one (something like only 250 were made).
     
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  9. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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  10. akatsuki

    akatsuki Well-Known Member

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    I fully agree with you - I think Cartier is trying hard, too hard. JLC had one interesting watch, but from a technical perspective, not an aesthetic one. And the rest were just mediocre. Overall a pretty poor showing.

    As an aside - I was just looking at the article on Julien Coudray on Monochrome right now. I don't know much about Fabien Lamarche except that he subcontracted for other brands for a while, but nice looking stuff.
     
  11. Kaplan

    Kaplan Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. That's certainly very elegant, but too costly and dial is too vintage'y for what I was hoping to find. Wire lugs aren't an absolute necessity, something like this could be nice as well:

    [​IMG]

    That's from around 1928, with a rather similar case as to the one Panerai started making around 1954:

    [​IMG]

    Cushion cased watches seems to have mostly disappeared and I'm guessing that if anyone were to reintroduce them they'd be accused of copying Panerai. Ironic as it wasn't their design (they should get credit for making it popular again, though).

    I guess most know about Panerai using Rolex movements in some of their earliest watches, but it was news to me that the case design came from Rolex as well.


    [​IMG]
    This is from a Rolex brochure from 1935. It was 47mm, same as the first Panerai from the following year.

    Anyway, since Rolex, Longines, Omega and others used to have cushion cases in their line-up, I was just wondering if there were any current alternatives to the reduced Radiomirs if one was looking for one in a 40-42mm size. The VC aside, it doesn't seem so.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2014
  12. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    Panny ripped off Rollie? Whaaaaaaat?
     
  13. Kaplan

    Kaplan Well-Known Member

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    Interesting, no?

    Also, here's a few pics of a Pam 103:



    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2014
  14. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    Im sorry, all I see are bewbz.
     
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  15. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Well-Known Member

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    Indeed. After carefully examinating her silhouette if catched the Pani. So Panerai also make models for dem wimmenz?

    That is nice. [​IMG]
     
  16. Kaplan

    Kaplan Well-Known Member

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    I don't think it's considered a women's model, but at 40mm I think it's a great size.

    Ideally, what I would love to find is one in that size, with this exact design, blue hands and all:

    [​IMG]

    :satisfied:
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2014
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  17. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Well-Known Member

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    Oh my... that Pani looks great!
     
  18. Cleav

    Cleav Well-Known Member

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    That does great Kap and Betelg. :nodding:

    We got a model number?
     
  19. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Well-Known Member

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    I think that if I had the phone number of Heidi Klum I would not share it. [​IMG]

    Hahaha just kidding. The watch model, I don't know.
     
  20. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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