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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. ~ B ~

    ~ B ~ Well-Known Member

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    And finally, we present the prototype of the Imperial, the first and flagship watch of Maison CELADON. The prototype shown bears the Rice Paper Cream dial with blued steel CELADON Crown and hands, and stock mid-brown calf strap.

    This photo was taken by the manufactory in Beijing before it was shipped over to us. We received the prototype on Monday 9 September, and can affirm that the watch looks even more impressive in the flesh.

    Thus far, the movement has been checked and is keeping good time and falls within power reserve expectations. In fact it appears that the SB18-6 movement has been further improved over the test movement made in December of last year. The adjustment of the hands, for example, feels much more solid. Under thorough examination with a 10x loupe (diamond-grade, whereas watch loupes are usually only 4x), our Founder who is an Antwerp-qualified Certified Diamond Grader, found absolutely no flaws on dial or movement.

    The most immediately impressive aspect of the watch is the serene beauty of the dial. The very dark blue hands and Crown (darker than in the photo) are incredibly subtle and play off the light cream dial wonderfully, very much like a Ming blue-and-white vase. The guilloche veritably sparkles like a jewel under light; the flower in the central portion seems to be three-dimensional at certain angles. This, coupled with the three-facet applique hour markers, yields a dial that is both complex, yet elegant. A dial that is simple and pure, yet imbued with inimitable Chinese character.

    We will be posting up more professional photos of the prototype in the coming days, where the above effects will be more apparent. In the meantime, enjoy...

    [​IMG]
     
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  2. Hayward

    Hayward Well-Known Member

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    I like the new case bevel. Perhaps Rolex should start doing this. As far as the rest they should've gone all the way and made a matte dial. (Urk, I'm speaking of the Rolex a few posts up of course)

    The Celadon watch looks beautiful.
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2013
  3. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    been a little bit since i shared some of my work goings on. some stuff i am getting ready....



    sub from 98, just serviced by rolex in july of this year.


    [​IMG]


    DJ that i bet no one here will like. heck, i dont really like it.

    [​IMG]


    a wonderful chopard. i dont generally love their stuff, but i think this watch is gorgeous, and baby got back, too.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    and a roadster!

    [​IMG]
     
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  4. RogerP

    RogerP Well-Known Member

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    No need to apologize my man - we understand each other. It would be interesting to know the production numbers for the GS - I know I have read it somewhere in the past (I've been a GS fan for years) but can't now recall the number of even the source. I doubt that they would publicly put a specific number on their desires sales volume for the GS, but like you, I'm pretty sure than answer isn't "as many was we possibly can". Though no doubt that applies to the rest of their lines.
     
  5. RogerP

    RogerP Well-Known Member

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    On second thought - customized by someone other than Rolex plus a retail price of GBP15,000.00 = fail. IMO.
     
  6. ~ B ~

    ~ B ~ Well-Known Member

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    Hi R,

    Thanks for the heads-up! I just went to examine the prototype with a 10x loupe and can confirm that all the hour markers are perfectly positioned, so it seems it was an optical illusion.

    While examining the dial I was once again struck by the layered beauty of the guilloche, and the depth and clarity of the printed characters at bottom. It is a quality of printing I have seen only on Lange, Patek and Parmigiani, of all the brands I have examined.
     
  7. DLJr

    DLJr Well-Known Member

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    Even though I've seen the picture previously, I just wanted to say again how much I'm looking forward to these, Ben. For the rest of TWAT, I ordered a cream dial (blue logo & hands) for my wife and a red dial (gold balance cocks) for myself. Ben is certainly not embarking on an easy journey, but through my interactions with him, I am very confident in him and his products succeeding.

    And as it relates to the whole brand whoring thing, I've always been someone who likes brands and aesthetics that fly under the radar, almost like a little secret for myself to enjoy. These watches from Ben will certainly scratch that particular itch of mine, plus the added bonus of a story that I quite enjoy.
     
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  8. scottcw

    scottcw Well-Known Member

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    More Kate Upton or similar.
     
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  9. ~ B ~

    ~ B ~ Well-Known Member

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    Hi Newcomer, let me respond to your post.

    Why do you say that the rice-paper guilloche, the hand-blued logo, etc come across as fluff ? Do you know that the hand-bluing took several months of back and forth between the manufactory and I to perfect? The design of the logo itself took 9 months of elimination and contemplation. I would imagine that would count as substance. A hand-blued logo, the only such one in the world, cannot be impeached on either quality or novelty surely?

    You should read the process of achieving the hand-engraved gold balance cocks on the earlier WUS thread I posted to see the story behind it. All of that is from my personal experience, not related from a PR copy.

    If you think that a watch costing what mine costs (which is actually more than a 1000) cannot possibly offer the features and quality does, why do you think so? Maybe it shows that many of the big brands charge far too much for what they do.:)

    Gold chatons are very hard to assemble. The chatons must fit exactly in the holes when drilled, and the chatons themselves must be polished and bevelled. My movement has 4 of these chatons, so 11 heat-blued screws and 3 gold chatons are used. Even the small screw below the swan neck regulator is heat-blued.

    A three-quarter plate movement is also more laborious to produce. Because the gong train must be positioned below on the base plate and then the three-quarter plate must be fitted perfectly so each pivot rests in the upper bearing, a three quarter plate is harder to assemble than a bridge movement.

    However even though these features are expensive, obviously skilled labour costs less in China than in Germany. This does not however mean it is inferior. There are 4 old masters working in Beijing with tremendous experience and skill.

    The manufactory is also located in a little mountain village outside Beijing (known as "the garden of Beijing"), and the workers are all from the village, so the labour costs are lower than in the capital. If you see my phototour on Purists, you can somewhat imagine the cool laidback mountainside atmosphere of the region.

    As to your very humorous image in the post, it is nonetheless very true. I have toured several of the Swiss watch factories, including many top-tier ones, as well as two in China, and the processes are very much similar. In fact the machines are almost the same as well, and even the scenery. Changping village, where my watches are produced, is surrounded by snowcapped mountains and has fresh air and serenity, much like the Chaux-de-Fonds or Plan-les-Ouates.

    Nothing wrong with CNC machines by the way, even Dufour uses them. What matters is the hand finishing that takes place after.
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2013
  10. rnguy001

    rnguy001 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Ben

    Sorry for the false alarm - egg on my face! Looking forward to more updates
     
  11. TheTukker

    TheTukker Well-Known Member

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    Many thanks for your views and thoughts - much appreciated! Especially since it came in the middle of the hot GS debate (am I the only one who (also) has to think of Goldman when someone writes "GS"?).
     
  12. RogerP

    RogerP Well-Known Member

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    - B - : good info. I just shot you a PM.
     
  13. TheWraith

    TheWraith Well-Known Member

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    Thank you kindly.


    Thanks Roger :)


    Thanks. I think so too.


    Thank you, sir.


    I will, thank you.
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2013
  14. Flake

    Flake Well-Known Member

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    Agree. That looks great!
     
  15. Hayward

    Hayward Well-Known Member

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    So what happens when one of these modified watches is sent to Rolex for service?
     
  16. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    They are pissed. In the paperwork rolex sends back after service it clearly states, any non-original parts constitute counterfeit by federal law.
     
  17. dddrees

    dddrees Well-Known Member

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    Rolex will refuse to service any watch that isn't 100% authentic, that is in the states at least. It's my understanding that things may vary a bit from country to country. However no worries, they'll make whatever necessary adjustments to return the watch to 100% original. Of course this owner will have to pay for all necessary adjustments.


    However most owners of watches such as these understand this, and there are number of other alternative places to get a Rolex serviced.
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2013
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  18. RogerP

    RogerP Well-Known Member

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    Same deal in Canada.
     
  19. ExhibitA

    ExhibitA Well-Known Member

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    I wonder what Rolex would do if you sent in a Bamford modified Rolex for regular service.. Would they send it back to you or would they restore it and send you an invoice?
     
  20. bawlin

    bawlin Well-Known Member

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    They keep it and send you a letter informing you that you are a douchebag for buying a PVD'd Rolex.
     
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