The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

[jeff13007]



The nice thing is that in this version, while the dial retains it's three-dimensionality, the hour-minute hands 'jump out' at the viewer. In the last version, the RdM indicator and other sub-dials were competing with hour-minute hands for the viewers' attention, distracting from the core timekeeping function of the watch. In this version, the other complications are clearly sub-sidiary to the main timekeeping function, if that makes sense?

Yes; and it's nice to see a return to traditional roots with this version. While I like the Master Compressor watches, etc. what I love JLC for are the Reversos and the more classically styled watches in the line-up.

The Reverso Grande date in stainless steel on a brown strap has got to be one of my all time favorite watches of any brand. Sad to say i never had the chance of owning one

 

[Cylon]

Ive been underwhelmed by SIHH this year

 

[MSchott]

For JLC fans, one of my favourites from SIHH 2013, the new version of the Master Calendar (pics again from TimeZone):



Overall I like the proportions and dial layout better than before. Looks like the dial echoes the current MUT Moon. I like that they dropped the power reserve indicator; it made the previous version look a bit too busy. Bezel looks a bit slimmer than in previous iterations, giving the dial itself a slightly more generous look. Thoughts?

That's my favorite new offering as well. Much better than the previous Master Calender which did not have a clean dial. I had the older 37mm MM and this is very similar but in a more modern size.

 

[in stitches]

academe - thanks for those pics and the info. very cool.

Lebowski10 - i used to know the Ball history, but i have forgotten it, have not read up on them in a long while. as said before, they are not known for their dress watches. the ones you posted were nice looking, and for the price point not bad at all. but i think you should look into longines, B&M and maybe some less expensive omegas as well. but if Ball is what you really desire after all your research is done, dont let the fact they are not super well known or forum loved, stop you. get what works for you. just my opinion.

 

[Dino944]

Ball watches not what I would call dressy. Go try one one and you will see for yourself. I did. The tubes filled with tritium are simply ugly.
Also do not let the company history fool you: It is true that at some point in time there was an American company that produced watches for railroads, but that company does not exist any more, as the rights to use the name of the company were sold years ago.

It sounds like you need a dress watch and to me this means a leather strap, a thin profile and no complications. May I suggest a pre-owned Zenith or a vintage Omega?

Hey everyone,

what do you guys think of Ball watches? I had planned to pick up a Hamilton Jazzmaster Viewmatic (http://www.hamiltonwatch.com/en/ladies/american-classic/jazzmaster/viewmatic-auto/H32515555) as my dress watch...and probably still will (is this SF approved?)...but not next. The reason I'm looking into Ball - I was recently presented with the opportunity to pick one up at 60% off retail price from a friend working at an AD. This puts them into my $800-$1000 price range, and I figure I can get "more watch for the buck" as my research indicates good quality and a cool history. What do you guys think about the following two?

http://www.tourneau.com/shop/brand/ball-watch/trainmaster-eternity-51405p

http://www.tourneau.com/shop/brand/ball-watch/fireman-victory-51393p

Whats the SF input on these? (apologies if this post should be in the poor man's watch thread - not sure where the dividing line is)

I've seen and tried on a few Ball watches several years ago. The ones I tried on were sportier than what you are considering. I found them kind of clunky, not particulary impressive almost more of a styling exercise than a quality watch, and the gas tubes were a novelty that I think would wear quickly on me.

I think if you like the watch and the price fits your budget, then either could be fine. I can understand your friend's discount making these watches very enticing. The ones you are considering are normal looking, and not goofy like some of their sportier pieces. As expected (in their price range) most of their watches use ETA movements, which are good solid workhoreses, but nothing exceptional.

I'm not really sure one could describe a watch or brand as SF approved. We all have different tastes, budgets, and needs...so no watch can be everything to everyone. There are lots of top of the line brands that offer models I would never buy, great quality but not my taste. So SF approval should be taken with a grain of salt.

However, I like Papa Knot's suggestion of looking at some vintage Omegas, Zeniths, or maybe some vintage Heuers, or Movados (not the quartz ones you see at a mall). You would get something different and probably much higher quality.

 

[Dino944]

On the theme of APs, I'm liking the new SIHH 2013 offerings from Le Brassus (pics borrowed from TimeZone):

ROO Ceramic Chronograph:



And my personal favourite, the ROO Ceramic Diver:



The new Ceramic Diver has made me re-think my plans for buying the Extra Thin Jules Audemars, though I probably don't need another sports watch!

I'm a huge fan of AP (I love my RO) but I feel like this year's offerings while maybe a new use of matterials, seems like stuff we've seen before. The Offshore is a great model and a huge success for them, but after a while the various versions such as the Volcano, the Bumble Bee, Safari, Montoya, CF, all start to look the same to me. Yes some of the matterials are differnt, but mostly I find the most distinguishing feature is only what bright color they use to highlight the dial or strap.

 

[Dino944]

Today I'm wearing the 5040J along with a pair of very comfortable Gaziano & Girling boots (pic I shared this morning in the G&G Appreciation Thread).

As for the "I'm about to spring into action" shot, that's just in line with what I do every day as a desk worker...

Beautiful boots and a great watch!!!

Ive been underwhelmed by SIHH this year

+1

I really haven't seen anything new that I would add to my "Must haves" list or a new "Grail" watch.

 

[Hayward]

Re: Ball watches

Keep in mind that tritium tubes will lose their glow in a decade or so and and then be difficult to replace. Tritium tube watch hands and markers were originally designed for military issue wristwatches, particularly for aviators. Most of those were meant to be consumables with quartz movements and plastic cases.

Meanwhile Luminova works forever.

 

[Lebowski10]

Hey all,

Thanks a lot for the input on the Ball Watches - I'm quite open to looking into a vintage omega/zenith...these can be found between $800-$1000? That sounds like a steal!

Stitch/others - agreed on the SF Approved point, I wouldn't let that alone deter me. However, it is nice to know what the more style savvy gents think about the watch's appearance - this site got me onto Allen Edmonds shoes and now I'm hooked!

I'm also pretty torn between a silver face vs a blue...leather vs bracket...tough calls

 

[academe]



I'm a huge fan of AP (I love my RO) but I feel like this year's offerings while maybe a new use of matterials, seems like stuff we've seen before.  The Offshore is a great model and a huge success for them, but after a while the various versions such as the Volcano, the Bumble Bee, Safari, Montoya, CF, all start to look the same to me.  Yes some of the matterials are differnt, but mostly I find the most distinguishing feature is only what bright color they use to highlight the dial or strap.

I am not entirely sure I agree. I think many of the great houses could - in some interpretations - be accussed of incrementalism; the other view is that these changes represent subtle evolutions of core and beloved designs. Lots of viewer subjectivity comes into play in either case. For example, I wasn't particularly thrilled by APs 'updated' ROs last year. I still believe that 39mm is probably the optimum case size, and don't really 'get' the new 37 and 41 case sizes. The only 'new' offering I really liked was the re-issued Jumbo, but still wouldn't buy one because its still too similar to my Dualtime for me to fork out the cash for it.

I suppose my interest in the new Diver stems for the fact that I've come to think of it as the latest successor to the original RO, and have been keen to see how it evolved. The ceramic case is a nice addition to the range and will make it very different from a tactile and visual perspective.

Actually have been wishing that AP would revise their Edward Piguet offerings. Have often felt that was the least developed line...

 

[academe]



I could not agree more. I think that the Reverso and MC line are JLC's bread and butter. And I agree with your assessment, the focus of the watch is really on the time--as it should be!

I really don't think anything in the new line-up will tempt me away from the MUT Moon, however. I think that JLC kind of played it safe this year. The one watch that I really love is the Jubilee Ultra Thin. That watch is absolutely insane. I really wish that the majority of the MC line was manual rather than automatic, but I guess you cannot have everything you want!

I do like the MUT Moon but the seconds hand bothers me for some reason. Would have preferred it with only hours, minutes, date and moon phases.

 

[in stitches]

Lebowski10 - i would recommend a leather strap. much more versatile. easily goes from casual dressy. bracelet, not so much.

 

[Lebowski10]

I was thinking the same, stitch - especially since I find myself wearing brown shoes/belt the majority of the time...my tag with a black case and bracelet can fill in for the black shoe and casual attire

 

[Benjamin Chee HH]



Thanks dddrees. Here is a quick wrist shot that really shows the layers or appearance of depth created by the stepped lugs, raised & angled bezel, and then the dial with sunken subdial. The view from the back isn't too bad either . The movement is based on a JLC Reverso movement.

Beautiful watch Dino! VC always makes such extravagant designs. Reminds me of the Cioccolatone somewhat. Interesting to see the JLC cal 822 in there. By the way, do you actually own a Dino?

 

[Dino944]

I am not entirely sure I agree. I think many of the great houses could - in some interpretations - be accussed of incrementalism; the other view is that these changes represent subtle evolutions of core and beloved designs. Lots of viewer subjectivity comes into play in either case. For example, I wasn't particularly thrilled by APs 'updated' ROs last year. I still believe that 39mm is probably the optimum case size, and don't really 'get' the new 37 and 41 case sizes. The only 'new' offering I really liked was the re-issued Jumbo, but still wouldn't buy one because its still too similar to my Dualtime for me to fork out the cash for it.

I suppose my interest in the new Diver stems for the fact that I've come to think of it as the latest successor to the original RO, and have been keen to see how it evolved. The ceramic case is a nice addition to the range and will make it very different from a tactile and visual perspective.

Actually have been wishing that AP would revise their Edward Piguet offerings. Have often felt that was the least developed line...

I agree that many great watch companies practice incrementalism and current designs slowly evolve. There is nothing wrong with that. Rolex has done that for a long time and one of the benefits is that models do not look dated in just 5 years or so and resale remains strong on watches like Submariners, GMTS, Daytonas, etc. I guess I just didn't see much that excited me from SIHH from any watch companies including AP.

AP does work in differnet materials, although I'm not sure I alway see a value in that, especially at the prices they charge. I can see using Titanium (very light weight, hypo alergenic for those with allergies to nickel alloys, and very durable) and I recognize thats a very tough material to work with, hence its cost is reflected when used for watches. Carbon Fiber makes sense in a racing car where weight savings combined with strength are crucial to top speed and acceleration. However, on AP's carbon watches...well to me it just cheapens the look of the watch. Much of the details of the case and bezel get lost in the black coloring, not to mention, although its just my taste I find black watches are sometimes cool looking but often remind me of inexpensive plastic watches...but thats just me. The Offshore is a great watch, its just I find many of the newer versions are just color changes (and they do way too many limited edition Offshores. If you do lots of limited editions often based on color changes, eventually they just don't seem as special). As for the new ceramic diver if you love it go for it. Its nice looking although it basically looks like their Offshore Carbon Diver other than the markings are now orange instead of yellow. I really like the diver, I just prefer in in steel with a matching bracelet....but I can see a strap would also make it a different experience than your Dual Time, which is a beauty!

I agree the Edward Piguet line is largely underdeveloped or forgotten.