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The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 24, 2009.

  1. Poshak Man

    Poshak Man Well-Known Member

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    Their EBay prices include UK VAT @ 20%. If you are outside the euro zone, contact them and they will adjust the price to take off VAT. But they do this outside EBay via a direct invoice, as according to them EBay does not have the ability to adjust for VAT. I have bought form them a couple of times and paid prices with VAT removed from the eBay price.
     
  2. Concordia

    Concordia Well-Known Member

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    5,773
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    Has anyone found the need to downsize loafers from their normal choice? Variations depending on material?
     
  3. sleepyinsanfran

    sleepyinsanfran Well-Known Member

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    yep, their vat-deducted sales are off-ebay
     
  4. peppercorn78

    peppercorn78 Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Brooklyn, NY
    F last monk Chukkas. Indoor / outdoor:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    5 people like this.
  5. CLTesquire

    CLTesquire Well-Known Member

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    Oct 20, 2015
    Location:
    Waxhaw, North Carolina
    Selfishly I hope people join this one. I've already confirmed my participation and would really like this to happen!
     
  6. NYDRH

    NYDRH Well-Known Member

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    Really like how those turned out, and are wearing in nicely. What's in the cup?
     
  7. beargonefishing

    beargonefishing Well-Known Member

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    Jul 24, 2009
    Location:
    Dallas, Texas
    

    I cannot, for the life of me, figure these boots out. I don't like chukkas or monkstraps, but I really want a pair of these. You have excellent taste, and foresight.
     
  8. wooksb

    wooksb Well-Known Member

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    Incoming --
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. RogerP

    RogerP Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Oakville, Ontario, CANADA
    ^^^ Nice. Red cognac?
     
  10. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Well-Known Member

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    SG
    I've always wondered, is Vass' "goyser welt", construction wise, similar to "conventional" norvegese?
    There's what seems to be a visible ? welt running part way up the uppers similar to what appears on a stormwelt. And the uppers do not seem to be turned outwards, or at least it isn't obvious.
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2016
  11. SteveL91

    SteveL91 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    148
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    Dec 17, 2009
    

    I'm not a huge fan of double-monks either, yet I REALLY want a pair of double-monk boots. I don't know why, it just seems to work so much better on a boot to me.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. wooksb

    wooksb Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Thanks! Yes, red cognac.
     
  13. peppercorn78

    peppercorn78 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks gents. The beverage is coffee. I'm extremely pleased with these too, although they are a bit roomier inside than I anticipated. I had to add a sockliner to take up some of the extra volume (I've got a low instep). Fit in 3 dimensions is pretty spot on.

    Maybe sometime in the future I'll order another one in suede or scotch grain.
     
  14. IGotId

    IGotId Well-Known Member

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    NoVA
    I've been thinking about ordering a blue suede monkstrap shoe, I think you've inspired a better idea!
     
  15. ino68

    ino68 Well-Known Member

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    That would be an epic make up. Very distinctive!

    I can't wait for pics (if you go ahead of course :) )
     
  16. Notch

    Notch Well-Known Member

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    Jul 27, 2010
    Location:
    Belgium
    @ThunderMarch

    From 'the Vass book':

    "A single-soled double-stitched shoe has two rows of stitching; a double-soled double-stitch shoe has three rows. "

    "Unlike the more elegant, lightweight welted shoe, the welt and seams of the double-stitched shoe have an esthetic as well as a structural function"

    From the diagram in the book, there is in fact a difference between the Norwegese and the Goyser construction. The goyser construction has the welt strip on the outside of the shoe, turned in a kind of 90 degree angle and squiched inbetween the midsole and the upper. There are three rows of stitches:


    • The first stitch is used to hold the insole, the upper and the outside welt together.
    • A second stitch is used to bond the outside welt and the middle sole.
    • The last stitch holds the outside welt, the midsole and outsole together.

    So besides the outside welt holding out the water, another function of this type of stitching is that, since the rows of stitches are staggered, the load on the shoe when you walk is distributed more evenly: "the seams will not take the strain at the same tim, but in a kind of wave motion".

    Performing the Goyser stitch is very difficult for the shoemaker, because:


    • all stitches need to line up perfectyle, or in an exact staggered formation
    • the shoemaker must make sure not to harm any of the stitches when a new row is begun
    • in the end, the third stitch that holds together all three layers, is performed by hand piercing an awl through three layers of leathers that are about 12mm thick in total


    I will post a picture of the diagram later today!
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. Notch

    Notch Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    676
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    Jul 27, 2010
    Location:
    Belgium
    a picture to somewhat show the construction method:

    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  18. peppercorn78

    peppercorn78 Well-Known Member

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    Brooklyn, NY
    

    That would be incredible. I hope you do it!

    I would do that myself except I already have blue suede and blue she'll in my rotation. Only so many blue shoes a bloke can have :(
     
  19. Nikola

    Nikola Well-Known Member

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    Mar 29, 2013
    Do any of you guys have both the Edward Green 202 lasted oxfords/derby and F lasted Vass? Any photo for comparison purposes?
     
  20. RogerP

    RogerP Well-Known Member

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    Oakville, Ontario, CANADA
    Great choice. I've been wanting chukkas or maybe a tall derby boot in that shade.
     

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