The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

[Gianni Cerutti]



I have both pairs - I personally prefer the way EG hand-stitched the upper section and inner stitched the split toe, that makes the Dover a timeless classic, not even my John Lobb Chambord is on par. My Dover was made on the 82 Last using Willow Calf (Rare & EG have discontinued) However, the EG did come at a 35% premium - so it's a trade-off you need to consider. The upper stitches takes about 2-3 hand-hours using a pig's bristle - see picture 2 closer up. .

Wow...very fantastic model

 

[member2000r]

@member2000r ^^^ I wear UK 9E in EG 888/82 and U last in a 43. Similar in terms of forefoot width, Vass has a little more space over the instep and is a touch longer.

I own a Carmina Rain in 8.5 (a bit tight, but broken in nicely) and a Vass U Last 43.

The Vass U Last 43 is a little bit big. If I push my feet all the way forward in the shoe I can easily slip a finger behind my heel.

I wouldn't go as far as to say 'definitely size down', but in my experience if you're in between 9 and 8.5 in the Carmina Rain last you may be able to size down.

Me:
Carmina, Simpson: UK8
Carmina, Rain & Forest: UK7,5
C&J, 337 & 348: UK7,5
G&G, MH71, GG06 &TG73: UK8
EG, 888 & 82: UK8
Vass, F & U: EU41,5

I have the above models in EG, G&G and Carmina - and you're safe to go with EU 43 in the Vass U last.

I think Roger can also vouch for this.

To compensate the longer shape while keeping the same width, is going with 42.5 wide a good idea?
I feel that a UK9EE Carmina Rain is a bit long... 4 cm gap between longest toe & shoe tip.
I have asked Vass & Ascot Shoe, they do recommend 43 though.

 

[member2000r]

Awesome colour...Metal Grey alligator

 

[VRaivio]

Oh wow, that willow calf is something else. Who tanned it and why did EG discontinue using the leather?

 

[Notch]

Small update: I have been on ski holidays for a week after my budapest trip, some pictures coming up soon!

 

[Ilovelobbs]

I do think the Hove is more stylish, but I can't get the Dover out of my mind either. Might have to get them both...

I agree on the flair & sharpness of the Hove. Nowadays most Dover are made on the chunky dainite sole and
rounder 202 last - which doesn't appeal to all


Some ideas behind the names given.

Hove is a small town near the fashionable seaside town of Brighton.
Dover is a industrial working class town in the county of Kent ;-)

 

[Ilovelobbs]

Oh wow, that willow calf is something else. Who tanned it and why did EG discontinue using the leather?

There's little burnishing involved with the Willow Calf - the high raw material cost was a certain factor
and the supplier couldn't provide the high quality consistently on a sheet per sheet basis...

 

[Ilovelobbs]

I thought VASS was no longer accepting direct orders, at least from US customers...

How is this possible to enforce - are the Vass retailers in the US tying Vass hands.

 

[stmaier]



I don't think Vass can do the split toe stitching the way Edward Green does it. Nor the apron stitching for that matter. I believe member stmair (sp?) enquired about it but ultimately came away unsuccessful in that endeavour. Below is a picture of the two kinds of split toe stitching Vass does. I would be more than happy to be proven wrong. If Vass can duplicate the Dover I'd be more than happy to buy a pair.

Correct. I had sent some up close pics of the Nevis and asked them to do their interpretation. Here is the finished product. Very similar to the RL Gianni.

 

[RogerP]

To compensate the longer shape while keeping the same width, is going with 42.5 wide a good idea?
I feel that a UK9EE Carmina Rain is a bit long... 4 cm gap between longest toe & shoe tip.
I have asked Vass & Ascot Shoe, they do recommend 43 though.

My man, there is no guarantee in e-sizing - it is educated guesswork at best. But when you are getting the same recommendation from a number of different sources, you should probably give that some careful consideration. Just understand the return / exchange policy from whichever source you buy from. And also consider that if you chose to re-sell yourself, you'd have a lager pool of potential buyers for a 43 than a 42.5 wide.

I may have missed it, but what are you getting anyway?

 

[RogerP]

Small update: I have been on ski holidays for a week after my budapest trip, some pictures coming up soon!

Hope you had a good one Notch!

 

[DonRaphael]

Thanks for all the responses regarding Vass' split toe derbies. I guess I'll have to place that order at another maker.

Meanwhile, I saw the following shoe from the Portuguese maker Mack James: http://www.shoegazing.se/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/Tre-Outsiders-Mack-James-4.jpg

I'm considering going through Vass to replicate the upper shoe. I'm thinking K- or U-last (probably the latter) in brown scotch grain and antique cognac. Your thoughts? Thanks.

 

[RogerP]

^^^ Don, that shoe looks great, and I think Vass would nail it.

 

[venividivicibj]



How is this possible to enforce - are the Vass retailers in the US tying Vass hands.   

Yes, If you live in the US you must go through a vass retailer now. (Has been posted about 2 weeks or so ago)

 

[DonRaphael]

^^^ Don, that shoe looks great, and I think Vass would nail it.

Thank you. Yes, I believe so. I think I will go through with it in short. Just need to receive my last shoe order (not Vass) and evaluate my collection before placing the order.