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The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 24, 2009.

  1. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Well-Known Member

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    Thank you guys! Yes, I too believe that the U-last works very well with the 3-eyelet derby modell.

    And can you please share with us what you have learned, regarding the often hidden cuts in materials and construction that the higher grade of RTW-users make?

    Appreciate your concern regarding the fit, but can say that most of the things you've marked out is due to a combination of stiff shoes that when the pictures were taken had hardly been worn at all, and a weird standing pose where I bend the legs in awkward ways to be able to take the photos. But two things I give you right about, the lump on the inside of the right shoe looks weird, and that is because I have juvenile hallux valgus which I have been living with all my life, it doesn't get worse but sometimes the lump gets swollen and I have to wear a rubber patch which makes it even bigger which I had when the pics were taken, so that's the explanation for that. And also the laces tighten too much on the left shoe, because of the fact that my left foot is smaller than my right. I intend to take them to a cobbler to attach a tongue pads in leather to adjust the instep, which will solve that.
     
  2. Swede66

    Swede66 Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden
    
    [​IMG]
    So, a photo wearing the shoes. As can be seen the lacing is fully closed with an extra insole. Funny is that the right shoe is not totally closed even though my right foot is the smaller one.

    What's your advice? Change them for a size smaller or keep as is?
     
  3. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Well-Known Member

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    I will gladly share with you what POSH told me once I return from Berlin.
    Of course, some of the information will be useless to others because it will be exclusive about the characteristics of my feet.
    To begin with, you might have a look at the following links (in German but with a lot of drawings):
    http://www.newsaboutshoes.de/showthread.php?t=249
    http://www.newsaboutshoes.de/showthread.php?t=10
    http://www.newsaboutshoes.com/showthread.php?t=55
    http://www.newsaboutshoes.de/showthread.php?t=73
    http://www.newsaboutshoes.de/showthread.php?t=1104

    Now let me specify what I would be worried about in the derby.
    In the first picture, there is a strange curve in the heel of the right shoe right above the sole, it seems the heel of the wearer does not fit the shape of the shoe.
    The creasing on the heel of the left shoe does look to excessive to me and once again let's me think either the shape of the shoe does not fit the feet of the wearer or his gait is off and should be taken care off.
    In the second picture due to the closed lacing one can see that the instep of the wearers left foot seems to be too low for this very shoe and from the gap that presents some of the lining leather to us, that the shoe is too wide in waist and/or heel. Probably this is the reason for the excessive creasing in the heel.
    Back to the first picture and the right shoe, one can see that the part I marked in the following picture pushes through the leather, the shoe seems too narrow in the forefoot, which can cause what POSH explains in "Spreizfuß/Hallux valgus/eingewachsener Nagel/Nagelpilz"
    [​IMG]
    Being too narrow a shoe for the wearers feet is also recognisable in the second picture, the left foot is pushing beyond the natural lines of the shoe.
    Finally, have a look at the sole, there is no gap between the tip of the shoe and the ground, the ball line is off and wearing a shoe like that will hurt the wearers feet like describe in topic " Definition der Ballenlinie".

    EDIT:
    Swede, return them, the lacing is much too closed for a shoe not broken in.
    As soon as the leather stretches out the shoe will sit loose on you not only from too much length but also width.
    Better don't hurt your feet.
    Also, I have already learned that oftentimes one's shorter foot at the same time is the wider one.
    Seems to be true for your as well.
    Forgot what the reason was, will ask POSH once I am in Berlin.
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2013
  4. Roguls

    Roguls Well-Known Member

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    Newburgh
    

    Tongue pad.
     
  5. Swede66

    Swede66 Well-Known Member

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    Is that working well?
     
  6. archangle13

    archangle13 Well-Known Member

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    Is it common to find 'soot' in the brogue 'pits' and along the upper stitching for new Vass shoes?
     
  7. rikod

    rikod Well-Known Member

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    I think I can't wear any of them for the next few days because I broke 2 fingers in my left foot yesterday, but I enjoyed cleaning a couple of them and taking some pics this fine sunday morning.

    This group all in the F last

    6319 Cognac calf

    [​IMG]

    Black calf

    [​IMG]

    Oxblood Calf

    [​IMG]

    Black calf

    [​IMG]

    Antique Cognac calf

    [​IMG]

    Dark suede

    [​IMG]

    Saddle cordovan

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Bordeaux cordovan

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Whiskey cordovan

    [​IMG]


    Hope this help someone undecided :D
     
    3 people like this.
  8. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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    these are classy. Love em
     
  9. RogerP

    RogerP Well-Known Member

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    Oakville, Ontario, CANADA
    Impressive lineup rikod - that antique cognac is such a gorgeous colour, as is the saddle cordovan. Not to mention the oxblood - my personal fave. Very rich. And I love the lines of that black calf derby.
     
  10. sdolina

    sdolina Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    May 30, 2012
    Very impressive collection Rikod!
    Love these suede shortwings, thanks for an idea for the next Vass MTO. Could you post some mor pics of this pair?
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2013
  11. Roguls

    Roguls Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Newburgh
    

    It may, and costs less than 3 bucks.

    Rikod, that collection is epic. I now need 6319 and Antique cognac. Your saddle theresianers are nearly identical to my new cognac:

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. Fiddler

    Fiddler Well-Known Member

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    Oct 31, 2011
    This looks fine to me. I don't see the lacing being fully closed as being a bad thing...unless it's some sort of style issue?? I would say as long as your feet aren't sliding around in them and if there isn't a hell of a lot of spare room after where your toes end, it wouldn't be a bad thing to keep them.

    I once bought a pair of derbys in size 43 by mistake (I am size 42). I put in an Ecco insole of size 44 and they fit me really nice and snug now.
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2013
  13. Swede66

    Swede66 Well-Known Member

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    From a style perspective it is nice the smaller the gap. But, to my experience the leather stretches somewhat when you wear in the shoe. Since it is already fully closed despite an extra insole I'm afraid to have problems at a later stage.
    There is the opportunity to return them and have them exchanged for a smaller size. The only thing is that I have to wait another 5-6 weeks to start wearing them...
     
  14. Swede66

    Swede66 Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden
    
    From a style perspective it is nicer the smaller the gap. But, to my experience the leather stretches somewhat when you wear in the shoe. Since it is already fully closed despite an extra insole I'm afraid to have problems at a later stage.
    There is the opportunity to return them and have them exchanged for a smaller size. The only thing is that I have to wait another 5-6 weeks to start wearing them...
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2013
  15. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Well-Known Member

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    Swede, you already know the correct answer to your problem yourself, you only need to bring yourself to invest the time and shipping costs. :)
     
  16. Swede66

    Swede66 Well-Known Member

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    I guess you're right...it sucks though...
     
    2 people like this.
  17. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Bay Area, CA
    My wife surprised me with a little Vass on my birthday... :D

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    10 people like this.
  18. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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  19. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Well-Known Member

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    I like everything about this first one. How do you describe the cap? I've see u-cap used, which seems like a good name, though I don't know if it is correct.

    I also like the dark suede that others have commented on. I'm intrigued by the austerity brogue as a concept.
     
  20. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Well-Known Member

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    ^And wow! What a cake. [​IMG]Were you carful cutting into it just in case it contained an actual pair of Vass?

    Happy birthday, sir.
     

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