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The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 24, 2009.

  1. Concordia

    Concordia Well-Known Member

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    If you want a loafer, do you really want all that stuff on the sole? Or rather, if you want the heavy hardware to help you walk, shouldn't you get Derby lacing?
     
  2. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Well-Known Member

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    Thank you. I am thinking through my options, and it is sometimes hard to opt for simplicity when you can have whatever you want. How do you feel about double versus single sole? The loafer on the Vass website shows a single sole, which looks fine on the style.

    Perhaps I should go with brown scotch grain and a single sole, and leave it at that.
     
  3. striker

    striker Well-Known Member

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    Single is always a safe and sensible choice. No need for HAF sole or double sole.
     
  4. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    I would stay with classic loafer designs with welted construction, single sole, and slimmer last. Loafers should be close fitting, light, and delicate shoes.
     
  5. arglist

    arglist Well-Known Member

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    Guys, I have a question for the Vass cracks. I have ordered and quite promply received a pair of beautiful of Old English Oxfords on F-last in size 41.

    They came together with a pair of standard trees that were clearly too small although being marked 41. I stupidly did not follow my gut feeling and used them anyway after wearing the shoes which caused quite some creasing on the foreshoe (vamp, I think it's called).

    Anyway I wrote Mr. Kuti and asked about it. He promply sent me a pair of trees in 42 which filled my shoes quite nicely.

    But, and here's my question: unlike all other trees I own the wood does not touch the vamp leather from inside. Instead it just stretches the leather by spring force. Is that normal and if so is it effective in preventing creasing?

    Thanks for your opinions.

    Florian
     
  6. RogerP

    RogerP Well-Known Member

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    I'd go double sole - I just have a very strong preference on that point. It's hardly going to overwhelm the shoe and make it look overly heavy - particularly if it transitions to a single sole under the arch. And I generally don't like an overly delicate-looking shoe to begin with.

    Love Goyser stitching, but not sure I see it here.
     
  7. bertie

    bertie Well-Known Member

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    North of
    

    Yes. While the Norweger style potentially could take doubel sole (and I have a Norweger derby with a double sole), single is more classic for a loafer. No Goyser - that is for sh*tkickers not loafers.
     
  8. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Well-Known Member

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    Have to agree with your comments on double sole - but....only if the shoe is a size 42 or bigger....
    and only if Vass skilled craftsman at hand by tapering the double sole into a sublime single at
    the waist....it just ooozes class.

    Double sole on size 41 or smaller can look oddly stunted and chunky if you know what I mean....
    Also bear in mind the cost of replacing your sole can cost €130 from Vass (that's excluding shipping).

    Single sole has it advantages on the K & U last...it simply looks sleek
     
  9. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Well-Known Member

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    Honestly,

    I am not a big fan of Vass last apart from the K & U.
    I couldn't see any difference to the P2 & P3 last...
     
  10. joiji

    joiji Well-Known Member

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  11. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Well-Known Member

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    Can I clarify a couple of points with regard to high in-step in regard to shoe style (oxford; derby; monks; loafers)

    If you have high in-step, avoid close lace up oxford chelsea like the
    first 2 pairs in this picture. And try and gear towards a pair of Derby open lace
    like the last pair in this picture....or go for a pair of slip-on monk strap.

    There is more opening around the instep on the monks/derby....

    So the in-step space on the U last Derby and a U last Oxford will vary.
     
  12. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Well-Known Member

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    Hope I haven't offended you... Allow me to re-word, all Vass are nice, just my preference on the K & U :)
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2013
  13. RogerP

    RogerP Well-Known Member

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    Fair enough comment on size - I wear a 43, so the double sole looks good in pretty much any application to my eye.

    My K lasted Vass is double-soled, tapered to a single at the waist - I wouldn't have it any other way.

    And since the double soles will last a good long while, the ultimate cost of resoling is quite significantly deferred.
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2013
  14. steveyoo1983

    steveyoo1983 Well-Known Member

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    San Diego, California USA
    just place an order for austerity brogue in navy calf u last! (I really need to stop buying navy shoes...)
    Cant wait for my first pair of Vass! [​IMG]
     
  15. RogerP

    RogerP Well-Known Member

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    ^^^ Congrats - I've always found navy appealing but have never managed to pull the trigger. One day.
     
  16. mr monty

    mr monty Well-Known Member

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    Vass blast from the past in Navy

    [​IMG]
     
  17. steveyoo1983

    steveyoo1983 Well-Known Member

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    Very Very nice sir!

    Thank you! Hopefully that one day will come real soon! [​IMG]
     
  18. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for all your thoughts, gentlemen. I think I will defer the Goyser sewing to another Vass order.

    These loafers will likely be a size 45, since that fits me well in the New Peter last, and I'd wear them casually. So I think a double sole could work. I'm also considering Dainite. Mr. Kuti says they can add the Dainite to a thin leather sole to create essentially a single sole.

    In fact, this is the shoe as shown on the Vass site, and noted as single sole:
    [​IMG]

    This is a Budapest last Norweger (albeit not a loafer) that's said to show a double sole:
    [​IMG]

    Hard to tell whicht I'd prefer from looking at the photos. I don't think I'd taper from double to single though, not on the Budapest last anyway.

    And just in case anyone here is interested, here is a photo of the available scotch grain that Mr. Kuti sent:
    [​IMG]
    From the left to the right: Bordeaux, blue, black, brown, red, cognac.
     
  19. RogerP

    RogerP Well-Known Member

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    That style in a 45 - you could easily pull of a double sole, IMO.
     
  20. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Well-Known Member

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    Big feet. :)
     

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