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The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Porn Thread (Bespoke only)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 3, 2010.

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  1. SHS

    SHS Well-Known Member

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  2. luk-cha

    luk-cha Well-Known Member

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    Was Sinndom, Now is Rolexdom
  3. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    :slayer:
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. Butler

    Butler Well-Known Member

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    Anybody know name and model of these? :bigstar:

    [​IMG]
     
  5. NAMOR

    NAMOR Well-Known Member

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    thinkderm, your adelaides?
     
  6. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    John Lobb Williams. But the question is are they bespoke with double leather sole but RTW trees, or they are just RTW?
     
  7. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Well-Known Member

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    These are RTW. Bespoke double leather outsoles and heels would not look like that.
     
  8. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Lobb St James.
     
    8 people like this.
  9. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    Least blobby JLSJ shoes I've seen. Do you like the fit?
     
  10. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Well-Known Member

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    Fit is great. I have to say that JLSJ is so far the best at making a great fitting shoe. Was surprised as they don't do fittings.
     
  11. VRaivio

    VRaivio Well-Known Member

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    ...yes, I was just about to ask about the fit. It's a strange thing that they don't do fittings as most other British cordwainers do. When I interviewed one of their makers about a year ago, she told me that they do what the customer wants, there's no such thing as a JL house style. That pair looks far from blobby, they're very EG to my eyes. I trust their upper will take a shine like no other.
     
  12. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Well-Known Member

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    .

    John Lobb (London) used to do fittings in the traditional British 'in-welt' stage, just like everyone else. This was stopped under Mr Eric Lobb (John Hunter Lobb's uncle and predecessor as company boss), sometime in the mid 80s. Whatever spin the firm will put on, the bottom line is this was done to save money.



    JLL has several last makers/fitters working for them. Just like the Saile Row cutter (their equivalent in tailoring), the fitter is responsible to see a project through. Each one of them has his certain idiosyncrasies and preferences and those will ultimately show in the finished last and shoes. Craftsmen who work as out-workers for JLL can recognize who has made the last. A closer: "I don't have to look at the handwriting (of the instructions on the swing ticket) to know who has done a particular job.)

    It's easy to say "what the customer wants", but how many customers are able to express precisely what they actually want. 'jerrybrowne' is an experienced shoe buyer and bespeaker and knows what he likes and what he does not like and, presumably, is not shy in expressing his opinions and wishes.

    Many customers are virgins at bespoke and are not able to express their wishes more than: "A well fitting suit/shirt/shoe". You, as the professional taking the order, do not want to introduce confusion and uncertainty by offering your client too many choices. You don't want him to say: "Let me think about it", you want to nail the commission here and now. So, quite a few of the creative and aesthetic decisions are taken by the person who takes the order.

    Apparently, there is one fitter at JLL today, who is regarded by the out-workers as an exceedingly good last maker. Maybe it was him, who saw the commission through.
     
    3 people like this.
  13. VegTan

    VegTan Well-Known Member

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    That may be in the early 90s.

     
  14. VRaivio

    VRaivio Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, bengal! You have great insight into the British style world.
     
  15. David Reeves

    David Reeves Well-Known Member

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    Boring I know but its my first pair of Cleverley's

    [​IMG]

    Picking up some Blue Chelsea boots from them tomorrow.
     
    4 people like this.
  16. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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    Do you pay in suits? Tailors often have great shoes for that reason. And shoemakers for the same.

    I recently got a great pair of brown suede chasse that I should photograph for this thread.
     
  17. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Well-Known Member

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    side gusset is NOT boring!
     
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  18. Winot

    Winot Well-Known Member

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    Would love to see those. I am planning a pair of dark blue Chelsea boots from them with a medallion.
     
  19. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Well-Known Member

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    Cleverley custom stamped Crup.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    3 people like this.
  20. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

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    Does that mean "hatchgrain cordovan"? JB, you are something. Those loafers are insane.
     

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