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The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Porn Thread (Bespoke only)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 3, 2010.

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  1. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Well-Known Member

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    Those are really cool! Yeah Norman is picking up the pace now ahead of his RTW launch. Will be interesting to see the whole set up, and hope it's not only too arty and extravagant stuff. Interesting to see how the Sendra factory manages shoes in the higher quality/price range that he's aiming for too.

    Well thank you DWF. Regarding the leather story, I see your point. When I made a news story on something with ecological, local meat when I worked at the Swedish National Radio, I witnessed the killing and slaughter of a cow. It was horrible, I hated it. But I would obviously much rather eat that meat and use that skin for my shoes (if I could) than the mistreated, industrialised meat products most cattle are seen as.

    We have a tannery here in Sweden, Tärnsjö, who marks every skin with a number, through which you then can go back to which farm, even which calf/cow, that it comes from. I actually have a pair of shoes where we tracked the leather, so I know the name of the animal that I'm wearing (don't remember now, has it written down somewhere). It's a bit freaky, but at the same time interesting, and I do know now that it comes from a decent farm and probably has had a decent life.
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2014
  2. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    You have a tannery there in Sweden called Morjarvsskinn, out of Morjarv. In any case they do a reindeer that looks remarkably like it might be Russia Calf.

    I don't know how it is tanned but they sent me a black waterproofing / dubbin that is so redolent of birch oil and smoke and pine tar that I sometimes think it would make a great...strictly masculine...cologne/EDT.

    Which makes me think they might curry the reindeer with birch tar.

    I carry it around the shop sometimes and set it down odd places and now I can't find it.

    Oh!! Here it is:

    Garvarens Ladersmorningar

    Innehaller endast naturproduktor bl a fartalg bjorktjara och bivax

    Morjarvs Skinn

    tel 0923-501 00

    Garveriet 90 42 Morjarv

    (umlauts ...or their Swedish equivalents...omitted for lack of keyboard)
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2014
  3. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Well-Known Member

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    Haven't heard of Morjärvs Skinn, but there are a couple of small tanneries up north doing old school tanning of reindeer, salmon and stuff. Björktjära is birch tar in Swedish. Might be used in the tanning process, like said, they like old techniques. I know old moose skin with the hair still on are sometimes tanned with birch tar, and although they are decades old they still smell quite hefty.
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2014
  4. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    I'm fine with that and I'm equally fine to leave it at that but this has been bugging me...

    WADR, it doesn't matter what you or "those bootmakers" say about "specific length calculated relative to...foot length." Nor does it even matter what I say.

    What matters is what the foot says, what the mechanics of the shoe says, what contingent aesthetics dictate and to a lesser extent what Traditions say. Those bootmakers, me...anyone who is serious and objective about shoes...is indeed "bound to adhere" to them. "Best practices" is not open to interpretations divorced from logic or the reality of context. It's not Art (with a capital "A").
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2014
  5. Tony Montana

    Tony Montana Well-Known Member

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    I was referring to the 1/11 of total foot length rule you mentioned. All I was trying to say is that all the bootmakers I have used, no matter their location and tradition, were free in choosing excess length for the various toe shapes they have created for me. So if I asked them to make the toe shape on an existing last narrower for a subsequent commission they would just increase length by a bit so that I still get a proper fit.
     
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  6. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    Of course, every bespoke maker does that. But even if the metaphor of Crakows doesn't resonate, there is a point where the foot loses control of too long a "toe box"...simply because the flex of the foot is at least 3/11 of the LOF behind the end of the toes--where control begins and ends. To what degree...and whether you can tolerate your toes curling up...is the issue.

    Sabbage says 1/11 of LOF is for a medium round toe. It's also roughly equivalent to 3 barley corns or three full sizes (each of which is approx. equal to 1/3"). Three full sizes is already an inch in mid range lasts --8, 9, 10, 11. How many more sizes are acceptable for a narrow pointed toe? If you had a blunt foot with three or more toes of equal length, how far would you have to extend it if the customer wanted a narrow pointed toe? I'd guess that in some cases it might be five or even six...just to preserve the "lines" of the last.. That's approaching 2 inches at any size of last

    Any responsible boot/shoemaker will encounter customers where, in all honesty and honour, he must tell the them "I can't do that for you without distorting the look and the function of the boot."
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2014
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  7. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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  8. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Well-Known Member

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    ...and suddenly, my decision to skip lunch proves to be the correct one...
     
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  9. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    Interesting. Caution is recommended.

    It might be noted at this juncture that the LOMA--the "line of muscular action" runs right between the first metatarsal and the second...on a healthy foot. So the toe of the last will usually center itself on that line...on a healthy foot. That means the end of your second toe would be bumping the inside of the toebox on a narrow toe.
     
  10. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    That's a pretty healthy foot....

    And I'm looking forward to a nice veal (pale white) bratwurst.
     
  11. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Well-Known Member

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    It's too early in the day for nude phalanges IMO...
     
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  12. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

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  13. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, it's morton's toe.
     
  14. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    I have a Morton's Neuroma but I've never heard of a Morton's Toe--old Morton must have been damn near crippled to have so many disorders named after him.

    Probably from eating too much salt.
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2014
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  15. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Well-Known Member

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    It's also called a 'Greek foot' and is considered a sign of beauty. Do you know whose foot that is?

    [​IMG]
     
  16. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    I don't. I could probably winkle it out on Bing but then only you and I would know. So...please, tell me.

    ?
     
  17. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    BS...well, you were on when I posted my reply ...???

    So...my guess would be either Aphrodite, Helen of Troy or Agnes Morton. :lol:
     
  18. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Well-Known Member

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    statue of liberty no?
     
  19. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    Duh!!

    :facepalm:
     
  20. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Well-Known Member

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    That's right! - All-American girl of French descent (although a bit empty in the head)


    [​IMG]


    Here are two more samples:

    [​IMG]

    David (Michelangelo)


    [​IMG]

    Venus de Milo
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2014

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