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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    Most common is to have a low right or left shoulder but you have somewhat squarish shoulders and on this jacket you don't need the right side adjusted for your low right shoulder but you require more length over your left shoulder. You have a larger left shoulder blade and are higher at the neck and shoulder points on the left side. The result is the left side of the jacket is pulled to one side and the front and back are hiking up and out. The left shoulder is causing the jacket to shift on your body. I don't see an issue with the skirt flaring and the shoulders don't look too large. You may be use to the fit/feel of larger jackets. Bellows patch pockets add bulk on your hips, you may perceive this as flaring out.

    Look at the earlier set of pictures and notice how different the angle of the lapel gorge is on the right side compared to the left lapel. Something screwy going on.
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2012
  2. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    This one is too big , maybe even bigger than the other. Don't buy a suit that has to be taken in on the center back seam, Sure sign you have the wrong size.
     
  3. yywwyy

    yywwyy Well-Known Member

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    Mr. Despose- I sent a PM a while back. I think you missed it after a reply :)
     
  4. a tailor

    a tailor Well-Known Member

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    screwy is right.
    the first front view shows a really low right shoulder. that last back view shows "almost " even shoulders.
    and the side view the left front pooched out front.
    so that square shoulders with a low right, that could be.


    maxc
    were the makers tags still on the jacket?
    or were they the stores tags?
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2012
  5. pelagicus

    pelagicus Member

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    Thanks, A tailor, I really appreciate the feedback. Off I go then for the alterations. It's interesting, I'm having a hard time getting them to 'do enough' - the right shoulder has been padded, the jacket sleeves shortened, and the pants let out, and shortened twice already. But better too little than too much I suppose.

    When you said to let out the right hip, I don't quite understand - is that the jacket or the trousers, and just so I understand and can communicate to the tailor, what is the issue I will be fixing?

    The pants feel fine when I stand but are just a little tight in the crotch area when I sit for a while.

    Thanks again.
     
  6. Mox C

    Mox C Well-Known Member

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    I had my roommate tell me when my shoulders were even before snapping the pics, which is why it is different from the first set. I wanted one with them fairly even so that shifted shoulders wouldn't be influencing how the jacket hung. My muscle stiffness comes and goes, so I don't think the high left is all that consistent. When my left side starts to get stiff and ache, my left shoulder can rise up pretty high.

    The back center seam of the jacket is not equidistant from the shoulder seams, being closer to the left shoulder than the right.

    I wasn't familiar with how shoulders should fit, so a big part of my question was whether or not the jacket was too small in that area. Thanks for confirming that it probably isn't. Now that I have a better idea of how my shoulders influence how it hangs, I can see what you mean about how the pockets and misaligned shoulders impact how the skirt hangs.

    Fabric / maker / store tags are all in the jacket (Harris Tweed / Cesarini / B. Formans).

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  7. pnin22

    pnin22 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    San Diego
    Here's a BB Fitzgerald that I couldn't pass up. I realize you might say it doesn't fit well, but this cut fits me better in shoulder than any OTR I've ever tried -- I have an erect posture that causes the shoulders to crumple. It is unaltered/uncuffed, and I'm planning to take it to BB's tailor. Please advise on the following proposed alterations:

    Jacket:
    -Waist suppression, clean up back through side/shoulder-blade seam
    -Not sure about arm length, will check again onsite.

    Pants:
    I'm not sure if I should fix or slim the pants. These have 8.2" leg opening, and I have good-fitting pants with 7.75" -- shown with jacket for comparison in photo 3. Does this jacket look "off" with slimmer pants?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Thanks y'all!
     
  8. simmo

    simmo New Member

    Messages:
    2
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    Aug 18, 2012
    Hi there, I'm just wondering if someone could give me some advice on tailoring this jacket to fit better, I know shortening the sleeves is obvious, but I'm relatively new to this and bought this on a budget so don't really know what else can be done...

    [​IMG] [​IMG]



    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    Thanks
     
  9. trojan2008

    trojan2008 New Member

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    Repost later
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2012
  10. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

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    Four things right off the bat:

    1. Let your arms hang naturally
    2. MOAR light
    3. Button your shirt all the way up
    4. Wear shoes
     
  11. johnvw

    johnvw Well-Known Member

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    And unbutton the bottom button.
     
  12. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

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    It's a two-button? Oh, jeez...
     
  13. a tailor

    a tailor Well-Known Member

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    simmo its not too bad.
    the main thing is to let out the seat/hip area.
    thats what is causing most of the back problems .
    that will allow the back to drape properly.
    then you might consider shortening the coat.

    have you tried a shorter length suit?
    that would give you a shorter coat and shorter sleeves.
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2012
  14. whitefisk

    whitefisk Member

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    *errant post
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2012
  15. whitefisk

    whitefisk Member

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    Gents

    Im done making alterations to this suit (read: ive spent far more than is smart already). Hoping for some guidance for next time:

    Some issues i see:
    -Sleeves are short on the jacket, they lost 1/4" when they got rotated, i might get the tailor to fix this one issue
    -waist isnt as slim as i'd like, however taking it in more results in creases at the button. Do i need a lower button stance?
    -jacket is too 'full' from the back, presumably related to the above
    -I have pronounced calves and have had all sorts of trouble getting a good drape on the back of the pants - any ideas?
    -rolls under the collar - upper back needs to be shortened as per tutorials

    Thank you in advance for your help
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]I do have a low right shoulder but i think im standing lopsided in this shot, i dont think its *that* low

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2012
  16. a tailor

    a tailor Well-Known Member

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    you have an erect posture. that is why the front pooches out at the bottom
    also why the the back hangs on your but and the vent hangs open.
    in other words the back needs to be shortened at the top.
    you must do this before you do the waist suppression.
    see the tutorial on balance.
    sleeves seem ok.
    the slimmer trouser hangs on your calfs.
     
  17. ustudent

    ustudent Well-Known Member

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    The pictures are of somewhat bad quality, but what do you guys think? I know the jacket is a little tight, so I will be going to tailor to let it out a bit...what else needs to and can be fixed?

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  18. a tailor

    a tailor Well-Known Member

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    now you know why, sometimes its better to do alterations in stages. one thing at a time.
    like if you pad the shoulder. do it before you measure the sleeves.

    now here it sounds just the opposite
    when the sleeves were removed, the back could have been shortened and the
    blades cleaned up at one time. its just in knowing what can and cant be done.
    the waist on the jacket looks alright.

    the trouser appears to be too tight in the crotch.
    or does the rise seem too short?
    the only cure for the calf is, wider trouser legs.

    wish the lighting was better the details are hard to see.
     
  19. yywwyy

    yywwyy Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    I know the photo qualities are low, but if you have comments on what you see, I'd appreciate them greatly. This was a recent Mtm attempt.
    I'm especially curious on how to decrease the "kick" I see at the bottom of the trousers without compromising how the back of the trousers fall in line nicely. Also, can this suit be considered to be "draped," or does it look off?
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2012
  20. yywwyy

    yywwyy Well-Known Member

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    .
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2012

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