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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. bobbynardo

    bobbynardo Member

    Messages:
    12
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    Aug 25, 2016
    
    Your jacket's waist appears a bit too tight. Also, your right sleeve may be slightly longer than your left.
     
  2. hoxuantu

    hoxuantu Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    68
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    Jun 10, 2012
    Appreciate your comment. I also feel the jacket's waist is a little bit tight, but I'm OK with that. The sleeve's length is even, just a problem with my shirt.
    By the way, I think the pant's length is need to shorten, about 2 inches.
     
  3. Gavinband

    Gavinband Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    238
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    May 21, 2014
    Gents,

    I got a shirt made at a local tailor. Any advice? I have sloping shoulders and the right slopes more... not sure if the shirt has taken this in to account enough and if the arm holes are low enough? Ignore the old jeans with the fly undone, they are broken! Ha.

    Shirt has been washed but not ironed, apologies.

    Thanks

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    Last edited: Oct 3, 2016
  4. hoxuantu

    hoxuantu Well-Known Member

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    Jun 10, 2012
    @a tailor : Could you give me your comments?
    What do you think about the length of jacket, the high of button stance? Is the jacket too tight?
    Thanks.
     
  5. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,102
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    Mar 16, 2006
    You do have sloping shoulders but the biggest issue is the severity of how forward your shoulders extend. These side shots show it very clearly.This is very hard to get right, both sloping and forward pitched shoulders. The yoke is cut wrong on this shirt, doesn't sit on your shoulders properly.
     
  6. Gavinband

    Gavinband Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    238
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    May 21, 2014
    Thanks! I am assuming when you mention the yoke you mean from the front picture and the fact it doesn't lay flat from the neck? Or do you mean from the back?

    Agree on the forward pitch issue.... It's a pain. This shirt was not cheap and done by a good tailor, so not sure how to approach this.....

    I have a good relationship with the tailor as they have made two lovely suits for me, I am assuming approaching and discussing these issues should not be an issue? The main reason I wanted a bespoke shirt was because of my awkward shoulders...
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2016
  7. hoxuantu

    hoxuantu Well-Known Member

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    Jun 10, 2012
    @Despos : Could you give me a comment? Thanks.
     
  8. divot

    divot Active Member

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    Nov 30, 2011
    Looking for feedback on the best way to show a quarter or half inch of shirt cuff with this suit jacket. Do I need longer shirt sleeves or shorter jacket sleeves? Or both? Hoping @Despos or @a-tailor can offer some advice.

    For the record, the sleeves of both the jacket and the shirt are 32".

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  9. Gavinband

    Gavinband Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    238
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    May 21, 2014
    @Despos

    I gave my shirt a press and attach some pics again. Do your comments regarding the yoke still stand? Be helpful so I can consider what steps to take.

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  10. godofcoffee

    godofcoffee Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    274
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2009
    Location:
    NYC
    Hey guys, I just got a new suit and would hugely appreciate any tips regarding adjustments you think ought to be made. Apologies for the wrinkles, it's obviously linen and I've worn it for a bit. Thank you!

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  11. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,535
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    Mar 15, 2006
    The pants can be salvaged. All they need is shortening.

    The jacket length is woefully short, and the sleeves are too short. That cannot be fixed, and therefore the jacket is unwearable.
     
  12. hoxuantu

    hoxuantu Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jun 10, 2012
    Do you think the shoulder is little bit narrow, and the button stance is high?
     
  13. fire and zen

    fire and zen Member

    Messages:
    19
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    Oct 20, 2012
    Do Despos or any other tailors have thoughts on the collar gap and shoulder dimple (on top of the shoulder)? It may be worth noting that there's a bit of pressure on my shoulder at the seam (where the sleeve meets the body).

    This is a MTM linen suit and it seems to fit well in other aspects. I took it to Enzo Caruso in Los Angeles, a wonderful bespoke tailor by all accounts. He simply pulled the jacket up on my neck and told me to wear it for a month, buttoned and frequently pulling down on the jacket, until the collar and shoulders molded to my frame. He also told me he would not change anything about the cut for future commissions. Indeed, when I pull down the jacket, the collar gap disappears, but that's not really the natural state of the jacket.

    Thanks for the advice. Video below, let me know if more images are needed.

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  14. bobbynardo

    bobbynardo Member

    Messages:
    12
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    Aug 25, 2016
    

    If your suit's shoulders are natural (e.g., minimal padding), they actually look fine.

    Button stance is, to some extent, a matter of taste. Your current button stance creates the illusion that your legs are longer than they actually are. I personally think if you eased your car's waist, your button stance would work well, but others may disagree.
     
  15. jexbrah

    jexbrah Active Member

    Messages:
    44
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    Feb 12, 2011
    Please critique the fit of my luxire shirt. What should I alter for my next order?

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    Last edited: Oct 12, 2016
  16. Torzano

    Torzano Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jul 19, 2015
    I have a pair of chinos that the waist is too big. It causes bunching of fabric when I have a belt on. Would taking in the waist remedy this problem?
     
  17. Ttailor

    Ttailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    135
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    May 27, 2011
    Location:
    Canada
    

    What I noticed is a very slight tension across the very upper back which terminates mid shoulder.
    The shoulder seam may be slightly too hollow or straight there for your particular shoulder shape/ slope/body type.

    Or, maybe you do need a very marginal lengthening of the cb, and neck point, which would be blended down to the original shoulder point. In other words more shoulder slope by raising the cb rather than lowering at the shoulder point.

    Likely a moot point though in this particular jacket. It is more of a change to be done at the pattern stage or early fitting stage of a custom made garment.
     
  18. yoshiwaan

    yoshiwaan Active Member

    Messages:
    44
    Joined:
    May 1, 2014
    Location:
    Vancouver, for now...
    Hello,

    I've ordered a linen shift from Propercloth and I'm having trouble working out why it looks so bad fit wise and what to do about it. I've not ordered or really worn much linen before so it might just be me not understanding the properties of the cloth or maybe it's just the cloth that I ordered, but I digress, (poorly lit and including half a lightswitch) pictures:


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    I don't like the huge folds of cloth on the back, around the belly or under my arms from the front. It seems to be extremely rippled (not charming linen wrinkles), as if there's far too much fabric all over the place.

    Any suggestions?
    * Do I need to hugely let out the waist and bottom width measurements so that it's less tapered and thus becomes a baggy shirt?
    * Is the fabric just too thin to drape properly (it's just a different colour of this if it helps).
    * Do I need darts and width reductions to try and reduce the back fabric?
    * If I lift my arms up the yolk looks way too large, but it sits quite nicely on the shoulders with my arms down, any adjustment needed there?

    I'm lost, I've not had a shirt so far off from Propercloth.

    Using a random google image search ideal fit would be something like this or this

    Any help is appreciated.
     
  19. angusangus

    angusangus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    69
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2008
    Location:
    Melbourne, Australia
    Hi experts -- I'm swallowing my pride and seeking some help. I'd be truly delighted if any of the regulars would comment on these shirt and trouser patterns:

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    First issues I've picked up:
    1. My pleats are opening more than they should.
    2. The pants tend to pull against my knees a bit more than normal when I walk. Does this mean the back rise should be made slightly higher than the front rise to compensate for front-back pelvis tilt?
    3. The shirt is a fair bit off around my chest/shoulders. Shoulder slope issue?
     
  20. Foxtorpedo

    Foxtorpedo New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Joined:
    Jul 4, 2012
    Hello all!

    Looking for opinions on jacket fit - Any critique welcome!

    It's clearly tight around the waist (esp. blue one) - but this should be amendable?

    I'm also going to add ca. 1 inch to the sleeves.

    Opinions?

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