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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. jrd617

    jrd617 Well-Known Member

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    Despos or JeffreyD, can you tell me about lengthening jackets at the bottom. A member has told me this about a jacket he has for sale. I want to lengthen it from 29.25 to 30. Is this possible?

     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2012
  2. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Well-Known Member

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    Cambridge, England
    

    Lengthening a jacket is usually not possible. There just isn't usually enough seam allowance inside the front/bottom edge where the facing is attached.
     
  3. jefferyd

    jefferyd Well-Known Member

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    You can't do it- there is no outlet at the front where it curves. If you did it, you would be lengthening the back only, blending it to nothing at the front, which would not look right.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. jrd617

    jrd617 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks jeffreyd and sanguis.
     
  5. matsui

    matsui Well-Known Member

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    Jan 28, 2011
    Picked up this casual blazer a while ago, haven't had it tailored yet to take in the waist, but I'm wondering if it's too short, or if it's ok to wear casually: [​IMG]
     
  6. lefty

    lefty Well-Known Member

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    It is too short.
    It is okay to wear casually.
    Do not take in the waist.

    lefty
     
  7. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    I've lengthened jackets successfully by opening the curve of the front edge to a point in the hem of the new length. You will get the infamous SF open quarters. It helps if the fronts are not very open and you have to search everywhere the jacket will be made longer that outlets are there. Sometimes at the vents the cloth will be trimmed away and there is nothing to work with. If I knew how to draw lines on the pictures I could demonstrate. Some cloth will cooperate and not show a crease or any marks of the old hemline. If it's cotton, has a fuzzy nap or maybe has silk in cloth, you will continue to see a line from the previous hem. If the jacket is old there could be a difference in the color of the cloth. Lighter on top and darker where the hem was turned under.
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2012
  8. jefferyd

    jefferyd Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    Chris is right about doing that, but most ready-made garments will be fairly cut away to begin with so that alteration might look a bit goofy.

    @Chris- did you do it by hand? Open up the buttonhole? Or just start the shaping well below the lower buttonhole?
     
  9. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    Sometimes by hand but mostly by machine and as the previous post said, it helps if the fronts are closed. I start below the bottom buttonhole. I would mark the new shape on the fronts with chalk and try it on the client before opening anything to see if the new shape of the front will look normal or altered too severely. If the client agrees with the lines then we lengthen this way. Biggest problem is the bottom front can look too rounded and having sufficient length on the inside lining. Have to piece the canvass in front a bit too.
     
  10. Renalan

    Renalan Well-Known Member

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    Any advice on alterations to alleviate the flaring out of jacket past the waist?
     
  11. TuckerSon

    TuckerSon Active Member

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    Is it possible for a tailor to shorten the part where my dress shirt is attached to the sleeve? (so my shirt won't hang below my shoulders)
    [​IMG]
     
  12. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

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    Just get a new shirt which fits, or go MTM.
     
  13. PhiPsi32

    PhiPsi32 Well-Known Member

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    TuckerSon, my tailor is actually very good with these alterations. The problem comes down to sleeve length. As my tailor explained, the shoulder is taken in by removing the sleeve and cutting back the shoulder. The sleeve is reattached. If the sleeve has some extra length, no problem. If not, the sleeve needs to be lengthened. Depending upon the cost of the shirt, it may be cheaper to just replace it.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2012
  14. torontobluered

    torontobluered Active Member

    Messages:
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    Hey guys,

    I'm going to be attempting to alter some of my own shirts in the next few days (some are kind of old and not too expensive, so I don't mind taking a chance trying to alter them myself instead of paying a tailor). Now I'm not exactly sure about how each shirt is supposed to fit exactly. I think the two in this post fit well; can they be my benchmark for altering my other ones?

    #1
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    #2
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  15. torontobluered

    torontobluered Active Member

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    And here are the ones I think need a bit of alteration. Please tell me what you think needs to be changed (eg too loose around waist, or hips, or sleeves, or too long, etc)

    #3
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    #4
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    #5

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  16. torontobluered

    torontobluered Active Member

    Messages:
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    Oct 7, 2011
    #6
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    #7
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    sorry for so many posts :)

    I'll be using the "pinch and pin" seen here in this video to alter the sides

    Can I also use it for the sleeves? or would the cuff pose a problem? And of course if the shirt is too long I'll just tuck it in.

    Thanks in advance for your help/opinions
     
  17. RingTail

    RingTail Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jan 11, 2012
    I got this RTW suit in 38R, I plan to get the sleeves shortened, any other alterations I should make? Thanks![​IMG]
    It seems I could use more structured shoulders for future suits

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2012
  18. workthatwedo

    workthatwedo Well-Known Member

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    Is the coat too far off to be tailored?


    [​IMG][​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  19. workthatwedo

    workthatwedo Well-Known Member

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    It especially looks too big from the back.
     
  20. Kyle is raaddd

    Kyle is raaddd Active Member

    Messages:
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    Nov 20, 2011
    I recently got my J Crew striped tweed sportscoat in
    I think I want to get: Sleeves shortened a bit
    Waist brought in
    Maybe arms as a whole a little slimmer?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Sorry those are the only pictures I have.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2012

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