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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Ttailor

    Ttailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    135
    Joined:
    May 27, 2011
    Location:
    Canada
    

    It is very difficult to advise at this point with out seeing the pattern, which won't happen.
    There is a particular balance between the shape/curve and angle of the CB line and the thigh and the length of the back inseam which isn't quite there yet.
    I hope you succeed in getting closer to what you are after.
     
  2. runtomkring

    runtomkring New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    May 23, 2014
    Location:
    Northern Sweden
    Hi,

    My problem is that I can't find trousers that fits my legs. My thighs are 58 cm (22.8 inches) and my calfs are 46 cm (18.1 inches).

    [​IMG]

    I have tried suits (RTW) from Suitsupply, Hugo Boss, Tiger of Sweden, Canali and so on and this is the result...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    My question is what alternations I can do to get that slim silhouette that I'm striving for without all the wrinkles and creasing? I think the problem is my calves but is there anything I can do in that particular area?

    Kind regards
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2016
  3. Ttailor

    Ttailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    135
    Joined:
    May 27, 2011
    Location:
    Canada
    
    Well I am sorry to say that you probably fall outside the sizing parameters of most if not all RTW. You need trousers that accomodate your thighs as well, as you can see in the photos how tight they are and since muscles expand as they contract, sitting may become an issue. The leg width needs to be bigger than your calves in a flexed positon and not taper too much. A wider legged trouser in general. Please do not expect pleating to solve the issue, because it won't. Perhaps mtm but make sure they get a photo and body measurments if you go that route.
     
  4. jdrizzy

    jdrizzy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,776
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2013
    Location:
    Canada
    Holy! How do you even get calves that big. Genetics or exercise?

    Go custom pants, its going to be the only way you can get a straight line from top to bottom. You won't regret them, you can spend all the money on OTR you want, but it'll never fit you correctly.
     
  5. runtomkring

    runtomkring New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    May 23, 2014
    Location:
    Northern Sweden
    I usually wear a 24 on the jacket and then go with 25 or 50 (italian) for the pants.

    I was afraid for your answer and it'll be expensive to go bespoke on every suit [​IMG]

    Mostly genetics...and maybe 26 years of football (soccer). But no extra love to the calves if that's what you asked.

    Yeah, I'll try to find someone who can solve my issue. Do you think MTM is a way to go?
     
  6. xizenta

    xizenta Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    455
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2011
    Anyone know how difficult / costly it is to tailor a jacket to have more open quarters? This is a fully lined jacket. I want the quarters opened out a'la Liverano.
    Will ask my tailor about it next time I'm there. I assume $85+.
     
  7. JimmyTre

    JimmyTre Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    77
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2015
    Thank you for the advice. I spoke with people that made the last set of pants and they recommended reducing the 1/2 thigh measurement but taking off from the rear panel only. I'm going to give that a try.
     
  8. JimmyTre

    JimmyTre Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    77
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2015
    I've had similar problems although my legs are not nearly as developed as yours. In my case it was a bit more of a case with the seat. If I found pants that fit around the wait, then the hips, seat and thighs would be way too tight. If I found pants with a comfortable seat and thights then the waist was way too large and the lower legs too wide.

    I think the other commenters have it right, the pants in general seem a bit too tight. Beyond the thighs and calves, I notice pull lines across the hips as well, both in the front and rear. I think in your case, like mine, there is only so slim that you can go. Most of those slim cuts look good for guys with stick legs and and no rear ends because the fabric can stay a bit away the body and still give a slender line. When you have more muscular proportions, you still need that same amount of breathing room in order for you to be able to have freedom of movement and for the fabric to drape well. Unfortunately, that means that, unless you are 7 feet tall, the trade-off is that the look won't be a slim.

    Bespoke is certainly an option but very expensive (at least for me). I've been using an online MTM service (see my post above) and I'm gradually improving the fit of my pants. However, it takes a bit of time and it is a bit of an investment until you get the fit you want. I think probably the best compromise and bang for your buck would be to find someone locally who can make a custom pair of pants for you. You would then be able to consult with someone about fit and all that stuff. Normally people who do this go for very high end fabrics, but if that is not within your reach, I would say get some basic cotton chinos done. Once you have those pants, you can send them to an online MTM service and ask them to copy the pattern using whatever other, better fabrics you want which would save you a fair amount of money.
     
  9. Ttailor

    Ttailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    135
    Joined:
    May 27, 2011
    Location:
    Canada
    

    Really? I don't know that just reducing the thigh circumference is going to improve the way they hang below the seat. Wedgie time! If they do that and scoop out the seat run, they will just be tighter and sitting may be an issue.

    If they do that, they should put the length back over the buttocks by opening up the pattern and making the cb more angled, which for your shape should be the case anyway.


    I know that I didn,t give much advice the last time, because it does depend on the pattern as it is right now, but from the photos you can see a tightness in the cb mid buttock. This says to me that the cb is probably cut too straight for your shape.

    The fix really depends a lot on the experience of the person manipulating the pattern and how much fitting/patternmaking experience they have and whether they are able to significantly alter beyond the pattern base shaoe the company uses.
    Its complicated.....
     
  10. JimmyTre

    JimmyTre Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    77
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2015
    This is great. I'm going to forward your advice to them. Thank you kindly.
     
  11. kscott10165

    kscott10165 New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2013
    [​IMG]
    Can this be fixed? I like how the pants fit and there is a little extra fabric around this area. Do they just need to be pressed?
     
  12. nttdocomo

    nttdocomo Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    224
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2012
    Location:
    Cambridge
    I don't think pressing is going to fix that; perhaps needs letting out?
     
  13. zprejean

    zprejean Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2013
    Hey guys, first post here so please try and bear with me. I just grabbed this Suitsupply Napoli and this was the best fitting out of the two I ordered. This was my first time trying it on, and no alterations have been made. There is no store near me so it wasnt possible for me to try anything on prior to ordering. What do you guys think about this off the rack fit? I need to go get the pants altered and can request any changes to the jacket that you guys suggest. Please excuse the quality of the pics and the sloppily thrown together look, it was all I had with me and was in a time crunch. Thanks in advance!


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  14. Ttailor

    Ttailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    135
    Joined:
    May 27, 2011
    Location:
    Canada
    
    I have no words for this......pressing won't help. What do you like about the fit? You didn't show the front, nor a profile pic.
     
  15. pr2316

    pr2316 Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2016
    Don't buy slim pants... Get big ones then slim them.do not taper...look into old man brands/ styling... The new fashion doesn't work for most people...tapered trousers are pretty lame anyway....but it's hard to go against what they been telling you in Gq for 7 yrs
     
  16. pr2316

    pr2316 Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2016
    I am new here and looking for some advice on what to do about the roll on the back of my suit jacket. I did some research and I think I need to take it to a good tailor and they can take care of it. [​IMG] I had a local tailor take the jacket in a little so I am really hoping the jacket isn't too small and this can be fixed by a good tailor because I highly doubt Jos A Bank will take it back since I had it altered a little and it wasn't from The jacket is tight ..did this always happen? If not undo what you had done
     
  17. pr2316

    pr2316 Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2016
    
    Yes shorten the sleeve...e. Jackets are made for a person in a normal natural standing position...so all that is imagined...the sleeves are not really set the best...which is pretty tricky business...I wouldn't texpect more for under 4 large... Maybe the back could be let out...fancy fabric doesn't make the suit....work knowledge and execution do....that shiot costs denieros.....t.he suit looks i alright.....if you want the world go to a place with reputation and charges coin....treat them well and build a relationship if your projects are moving in the right direction.....I think that is the best way to get exactly what you want....for example at a really dope place those sleeves should not happen.....I think holland and sherry. Fabric by a dope tailor should be at least 8000. 6000 would be a great price....keep in mind I live in Canada......or maybe bespoke got my mind all eft up..... I wouldn't have really any expectations from anything that is not top end real deal bespoke.....then you can have expect ions of greatness....which may or may not be met....depending on how crazy you are and how crazy your tailor is willing to be.... And of course what is actually possible....I knew a guy that had a pretty beautiful suit but didn't like it cause he didn't look like a picture in a magazine...of course in the magazines most suits are pretty crap in comparison to bespoke.....sometimes tailors are unable to satisfy your every desire...for example this tailor or tailor shop appears to not be able to beautifully set this sleeve to that armhole perfectly for your body....I think to attempted perfect that sleeve setting that person gotta be nuts because it could be done but most likely not...looks almost impossible at this point.... If you paid top dollar for this your damned right you gotta send it back and they should fix it....everything else looks alright. ... I wouldn't be pissed....if those sleeves were beautiful I'd be thrilled......I've also seen people/ person look very respectable in 100-200$ suits/suit...but the dude was skinny easy body type...and he did not look hip with it....but 100% respectable....for the record I think you look great!! And no I think only a good / great amazing master tailor can fix that. And even he would most likely refuse becauseit looks pretty close to impossible to fix at this point
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2016
  18. pr2316

    pr2316 Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2016
    
    The slim fashionable look is not for you...embrace yourself ....buy more classic cuts.....then slim them down if you want.....that look is for skinny people only.....don't be a victim!!, tapered trousers are hideous anyway
     
  19. pr2316

    pr2316 Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2016
    
    Dude quit joking around....this thing is not hot....investigate something ready to wear..at least you can see what your getting
     
  20. flvinny521

    flvinny521 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    615
    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2011
    Location:
    Palm Beach, FL

    [​IMG]
     

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