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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. bbob2013

    bbob2013 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    102
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Hello all,

    Would really love some feedback on my pant fit. Sorry in advance for the low quality pics :(

    I am going to send these out for duplicating (different fabric), unless anyone can make a strong argument against that idea.
    These fit well (in my opinion), the waist is right at the top of my pelvic bones. I struggle with rise and pant length and feel these are as good as I have been able to get off the rack.
    In fact, I think I could decrease the brake a bit. My inseam is 35-36'' with waist of (36-38 jeans) 40 for slacks.

    Thoughts feed back? The shirt needs some work, but will ask for help on a different thread.

    Thanks all!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. gettoasty

    gettoasty Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Feb 8, 2010
    Location:
    Home
    I am curious because I have received the same results every time I visit the local dry cleaner: When I buy a new pair of pants the seams on the right and left leg line up exactly. After an alteration like asking for a hem, the seams are no longer parallel and align.

    I ask the alteration tailor to hem and an angled cuff done. Would this cause the seams to be misaligned?

    To remedy this I bring the pants after the alteration to the local cleaner to have the flat front pants creased. I specifically ask that the seams match up and even point it out.

    The results are a nice crease but the seams are still not parallel.

    Why?

    Is it the nature of having your pants altered? Is it an issue I should take up with the alteration tailor? Should I have the cleaner press the pants again?

    Lastly, if the seams do not align, does that mean the center crease down the pant leg is not straight? What I mean is that the misaligned seams cause the pants leg and in turn pants cuff to be skewed to the side rather than hang vertically perpendicular to the shoe/floor?

    Am I thinking about this too much? :hide:
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2015
  3. bk33

    bk33 New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2015
    [​IMG] really disappointed with this purchase

    Would you say the best thing to do in the future is to shell out real $ and go bespoke? or can some MTM, depending on the quality of the tailor, be able to make something that fits me?
     
  4. DThomas

    DThomas New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2015
    Hi!
    I would really need advice on this suit I got from Suitsupply (click for model).

    It feels comfortable and and it seems to meet the "requirement" I read in most articles. Shoulders fit, collar is snug, no X when buttoning, sleeve and jacket length seems fine.

    My biggest concern is the back and the sleeve pitch (I read it's called). I have gotten the habit of keeping shoulders back and neck straight in my posture which seems to cause this with the suite, If I roll my shoulders forward so the arms are a little more turned in and shoulders more forward the backside gets smooth and the twist/wrinkles in the sleeve disappear, but this isn't my natural posture.

    I honestly don't think I really will find a very good fit off the rackets as this backside wrinkles is a occurring with many of my wear like tshirts and regular shirts.
    so my question is, is it worth fixing? If so what will need to be done? A tailored suit is not within my price range at this moment.

    Anything else that seems off that I need to keep an eye on? The pant lengths is a bit long I think (hence why I folded them up in the picture to test length)


    (click for larger)
    [​IMG]

    Any comments are much appreciated!
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2015
  5. ter1413

    ter1413 Well-Known Member

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    Doesn't look bad. Is that after washing or "out of the box"?
     
  6. ter1413

    ter1413 Well-Known Member

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    I would get them taken up some more. A little long for my taste.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. PSNY

    PSNY Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    151
    Joined:
    May 19, 2013
    Location:
    New York, NY
    Washed twice and ironed twice. These were fully custom from a paper pattern. Just looking for some suggestions for adjustments, but overall I am happy and cant really think of anything to adjust.
     
  8. ter1413

    ter1413 Well-Known Member

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    How does the sleeve length look with a suit jacket/SC on?
     
  9. greger

    greger Well-Known Member

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    WA
    
    The back length is too long. With the sleeves off and the armhole measured the coat is put on the customer. The top of the side seams need to be undone so the tailor can lift the lower back and put a row of pins in creating a fold of cloth about mid height of the armhole. This fold goes across the back from armhole to armhole. When the correct amount is pinned across the back the cloth below should fall nicely. With the coat off the tailor draws a horizontal line across both side seams. Measure the amount pinned out. Undo both side seams. The measurement of the fold is how much the back part is lowered, and the bottom is cut off. The horizontal lines across both side seams is for that measured adjustment. So that is balance. The width across the back bottom that is wavy is also pinned out along the side seams. The measured armhole is reestablished and the sleeves sewn on. Might as well have the sleeves fitted too.

    This is so much easier done when the parts are basted together, and not finished seams. True custom tailoring is a pleasure (also called bespoke tailoring). Finished garments are a lot of extra work, and don't have the proper inlays in case seams need to be moved.
     
  10. greger

    greger Well-Known Member

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    Jan 24, 2009
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    WA
    

    The button stance is just simply too high. It makes the coat seem longer than it is. Also, it should be towards the lower part of the ribcage or lower. Some guys the normal chest measurement is smaller than a few inches down on the ribcage. The proper place for the main button, on a normal guy, is near the smallest measurement, which would be the waist. Not up there on the ribcage where it maybe the biggest measurement. Button stances are way too high, nowadays, which isn't fair to the customers. Crazy fashions come and go.
     
  11. jsant09

    jsant09 New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2015
    Would like any suggestions/advice for this suit jacket. This is a slim fit 42.

    It's very clearly too long for me. How much room do I have to play with to have it shortened before it looks to weird and how much could something like that cost? What other tailoring does this need in order to achieve the best look? Thanks.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. DavideMiguel85

    DavideMiguel85 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    133
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    Sep 9, 2013
    Jsant09: I am not an expert but is this a must change, do you already own it?

    From your photo the length is maybe half an inch to a full inch over? It's hard to say, with you arms straight, looks like you might be able to cup the bottom of the jacket? I think altering he length can be a $70-80 but will depend on skill and reputation of tailor, and I don't think it's such an easy adjustment as they have to reshape the bottom curve. My concern would be the button stance, it appears on the lower wide and cutting off the bottom could make it very unbalanced.

    You'd need the cuffs adjusting. Working button holes? More expensive, more costly, looks like you need a fair amount off. Non working button holes are easy.

    You have a mild pinch in the middle. Some like that, I'm not so keen, but it's entirely up to you. I have a sports jacket which has a mild pinch (not out of choice as such, it's just OTR), but that's much more informal.

    You have shoulder dimples, makes me wonder if it's an inch too narrow on the shoulders?

    All in all, it seems like too much work to me personally. I'm all for having things tweaked, but I'm not sure I'd be bothered with this unless there is some special significance.
     
  13. Egdon Heath

    Egdon Heath Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Maine
    

    Your question is murky.

    Are you talking about inseams and outseams? If so, say so. Yes they should line up, if you're talking about when each leg is laid flat on an ironing board should the out seam be precisely on top of the inseam and vice versa. Yes it should. Hemming has nothing to do with this...unless you've also had the leg narrowed or widened, the crease will run straight down the front. Not sure you're using he right terms in asking this. And get an iron, for Christ';s, and iron your own pants. It's not tuff.
     
  14. DavideMiguel85

    DavideMiguel85 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    133
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2013
    I posted elsewhere and the general impression was 'it's fine, don't touch it!', but someone recommended asking here. There was 1 comment on there being a bit of bunching around the armpits, which could perhaps be adjusted somehow.

    Basically, I love the jacket.

    But I felt it was a little slacker across the chest/waist/mid-section than I am used to. I have tried it with a thin sweater and a waistcoat, and it still feels like it could 'hug' a little better. I am quite a slim person, not a lot to me underneath.

    I do not want a 'pinch' and I like a natural drape of the fabric.

    Any thoughts? Do you think it could be taken in a touch down the back seam?

    Thanks for your insight!

    [​IMG]
     
  15. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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    Jakarta, Indonesia
    @DavideMiguel85 don't touch it, it's fine as it is. Any more waist suppression and it will look feminine.
     
  16. DavideMiguel85

    DavideMiguel85 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Sep 9, 2013
    Understood, thank you! I agree as well, the shape is absolutely fine. I wouldn't want to suppress the waist.

    Is it possible to suppress almost the entire length of it, so the shape stays the same? Or is that farcical?
     
  17. jsant09

    jsant09 New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2015
    I got the suit from CombatGent.com. It's OTR. This is a slim fit 42 and I also tried a slim fit 40S, which was much better lengthwise, but pulled too much around the waist. They are also sending me a non-slim fit 40R (Modern fit) to see how that works, problem is they don't carry the modern fit 40 in short sizes so it will still need some work on the length. Unfortunately, I fear that I am just too short and too overweight for any suit to not need a substantial amount of work.

    Since I am the groom in wedding group of 5, my suit is free. So I don't mind spending some money on alterations, I just want the suit to look as good as possible. I'm not stuck with this jacket yet, but am going to need to pick one soon.
     
  18. DavideMiguel85

    DavideMiguel85 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    133
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2013
    I honestly wouldn't worry too much about the length. Judging from your photo, there really isn't too much wrong with the length. The problem might be if you're comparing it to some more fashion-forward styles, which are very short. For a wedding, it makes sense to keep it classic. Also, don't worry about not being the 'perfect shape'. Just get the shoulders and collar right, and you'll be good to go (with minor alterations). You could probably just get the cuffs adjusted on the one you have, and most people wouldn't even think twice about it. As noted, it's a minor pinch, not a stab wound - easily let out if needed.

    Have a great wedding!
     
  19. fieldofdreams

    fieldofdreams Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    847
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2015
    Location:
    Encino, CA
    That is a good fit. You're not looking for a coke bottle shape. The waist is actually already a little more suppressed than I prefer.
     
  20. DavideMiguel85

    DavideMiguel85 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    133
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2013
    @fieldofdreams: thanks for taking a look. How about the armpit / back area? Do you think it could be reduced across there?
     

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