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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,102
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    Not since we started using Bemberg Asahi linings in the trousers over 30 years ago. Put a tiny pleat on the fork, along the out seam and at the waist to create ease in the lining. Steaming the lining before using helps too.

    That's a problem I want to avoid
     
  2. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    The Highlands of Central Oregon
    

    So if my tailor is not using Bemberg Asahi (silk?), would it be better to simply not have the lining put in?
     
  3. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Mar 16, 2006
    No, there are other quality linings to use. This is the one I like. Express your concern about the lining shrinking to the maker and see what they say
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2015
  4. greger

    greger Well-Known Member

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    Jan 24, 2009
    Location:
    WA
    Was told to use, I believe, ermazine.

    DWFII, your tailor should be able to get what Depose recommends, Bemberg Asahi. After all, they both live in the US.

    Wool doesn't bother me. My dad hates wool. After the Navy my dad won't touch it as far pants go.
     
  5. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    ermazine is similar, asahi is softer
     
  6. greger

    greger Well-Known Member

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    Read that Bemberg was invented in Germany, so the British recommend the other.
     
  7. gyasih

    gyasih Well-Known Member

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    Anyone
     
  8. kojnglsmith

    kojnglsmith Active Member

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    Dec 18, 2010
    I would love some feedback on a Suitsupply tuxedo I received recently--I apologize for the current lack of more picture!


    • Pants fit: these feel on the slim side as I am looking for a classic fit more so than a trendy one. I realize there is some bunching--these haven't been hemmed yet. I could possibly size up as the pants will be slightly roomier in a 40 than a 38 (+1.5" on the waist and +.2" on the leg opening) but I'm worried that will throw the jacket off
    • Thoughts on the jacket or anything else (I'm wearing a plain white shirt as I don't have a tuxedo shirt

    [​IMG]
     
  9. macjedi

    macjedi Well-Known Member

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    Aug 9, 2012
    How do you determine the right sleeve width for a MTM shirt? Proper Cloth's arm hole seems to be determined in most part by the sleeve width. I have small arms, 11 to 11.5 in ø. I'm having a hell of a time getting a good fit in the chest and I think it's due to the arm hole being too low. I've been doing 7.75" for the sleeve width. How small should I go? Thanks!

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2015
  10. ter1413

    ter1413 Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Central Booking
    

    You really need additional(and better) pics.
     
  11. Todd V

    Todd V Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    862
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2010
    Location:
    Fill-uff-y-a
    Gents --

    May I ask for some advice on jacket length? I'm 5'4" ~135lbs so I really try not to go too long (making me look like my suit is too big) but still maintain an office appropriate look. Finding a jacket at the perfect length is a challenge.

    (I know the shoulder / sleeve looks off. I think it is they way I'm standing, plus this suit is OTR).

    Thanks!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  12. emidyl

    emidyl Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Nov 24, 2014
    my rule is just covering your butt area or I use the 2nd set of knuckles from finger tips, give or take
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2015
  13. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    At 5'4" this jacket is not too short. Your already relatively shirt height can organically accept a jacket with shorter proportion. Proportions that if placed on a taller man would evidently be too short.
    In other words, relax on official rules. It isn't so short that it shows your seat like a ladies jacket. Its more like just like long enough that it just barely covers the seat. At your height and looking for a modern fit, this particular proportional aesthetic is actually just what youre looking for.
    The rest of the cut on the suit matches reasonably well with the length. Could it it be better? Yes and in a variety of ways...but you're doing better than most who post looking for a similar result and its best if we don't make you focus too much on all the smaller more technical issues with your suit.
    It looks fine. Not perfect, but fine.

     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  14. md2010

    md2010 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jul 11, 2011
    Location:
    Sydney
    Hi guys , bought this PZ suit in 36r. its 3 button unvented. I wear slim 36r. The shoulder on this is about 17.83 inches. Where as most of my best fitted jackets are 17.4 inches( Lightly padded). I feel the shoulder is a bit wide. But no divots or bulging. Looking at the poor pictures can you tell if it's too terrible.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  15. KyleT

    KyleT New Member

    Messages:
    4
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    Nov 25, 2013
    Quick question - is 3 1/4 yards of cloth (solid colour, no checks) sufficient for a DB suit for 5' 6" height, 125lbs
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2015
  16. TreverBrisance

    TreverBrisance New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2015
    Cross-post from luxire thread
    I would appreciate comments on the fit of my first Luxire shirt which has, as recommended, been washed and ironed (badly) twice. Fabric is sky blue oxford with NOBD II collar (picture with tie and jacket in spoiler). The fabric and build quality are just as good as I was led to believe, MOP buttons are just so much better than rubbishy plastic.

    Left Yoke: -1 in
    Right Yoke : -0.5 in
    Right Cuff: -0.25in
    Back Chest : -0.5in
    Back waist: -1 in
    Second button placement up 0.5in

    Sleeve attachment rotated (I take it Luxire would do this the right amount if I sent a picture)
    Issue with wrinkling behind the collar, from reading I gather that this may be to do with neck posture? If so I think my neck is back somewhat.
    Shoulder slope, have I gone slightly too far and need to decrease the slope across my shoulders? (currently 23 degrees left, 29 degrees right)
    Sleeve length? I think it's pretty good, maybe slightly long?
    Sorry for the merely ok quality pictures, the one from behind is clearly not too useful but just shows slightly too big back chest and waist.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  17. Isolation

    Isolation Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,953
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    Nov 7, 2013
    Location:
    London
    I got these from luxire to be beaters. Thoughts? It's far from perfect and too long/needs belt but I was thinking maybe they're adequate. I usually go no break and quite slim and wanted a fuller pair with full break to try different cuts, so I'm not sure if this works or not, as it's not something I go for very much.

    [​IMG]

    Here's a pic from a fit where I wore no belt.

    [​IMG]


    Should I just shorten it or does rest of it need significant work too?
     
  18. Emoore17

    Emoore17 Member

    Messages:
    10
    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2015
    Hello all,

    I am having the hardest time finding a suit. I am 6'4". This is a 41L Michael Kors modern fit suit. My thighs are big, so it's almost like a slim fit for me after I get it altered in the leg. Is this length acceptable? I need guidance because I am getting mix results. One guy said its not even worth tailoring because it will look like I am wearing someone else's clothes. The guy suggested this suit (jacket length).
    I know the traditional suit should be longer, but I am not looking for traditional. I want a true modern/slim fit. Also, what would you alter if this is a decent fit? Please help me. I'm going crazy. Thanks in advance.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]






    I
     
  19. SchwererGustav

    SchwererGustav Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    307
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2013
    Location:
    KCMO
    Fellas,

    I'm looking to have this second-hand sport coat altered. I have never had anything altered before, and have some reservations.

    The tailor give his input, but am not sure if what he is suggesting is classic or "trendy". I would prefer to go classic whenever possible.

    I am six feet tall, and about 173 lbs. This jacket is a 42L. I have also been told that my rear is slightly prominent. The tailor suggests I raise the bottom hem to where it just skims the bottom of the patch pockets, whereas I read that a jacket should cover your ass. The tailor also recommends bringing in the sides and sleeve length. Is he leading me the right way, or just looking for a higher price?

    Lastly, I am considering changing the buttons on the jacket. I believe they are some colored plastic, as the color has flaked off and showed white underneath. I have used a marker to color it in, but figure I could do buttons while I am at it and would appreciate suggestions.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2015
  20. Spaghettimatt

    Spaghettimatt Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,117
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2008
    Alright so I need a little advice here but I don't have pictures.

    I had a Lee Baron suit made in Hong Kong a while ago with soft/natural shoulder (minimal padding). I realized later that they didn't do a great job of fitting the suit shoulder to my own, natural sloping shoulder, as there was some rumpling across the top of the shoulders near where my shoulders drop off (basically a divot at the top of the shoulders where the sleeve head meets the cap).

    So I brought it to a tailor and he suggested padding the shoulder out a little bit, which solved the rumpling problem but created a few other problems, including: sleeve pitch (wrinkling across front of the sleeves starting in the armpit) and slight divoting at the sleeve cap. The tailor reckons the divoting can be fixed by letting out the upper back, which is currently tight and perhaps pulling the shoulders back. I hope this works but I don't know about the sleeve pitch. Any thoughts on either of these?


    I realize now I should have brought it to a better tailor and had shoulder reduced/recut where it was rumpling, but I'm worried it's too late for this.

    Any help greatly appreciated.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2015

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