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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. coolarrow

    coolarrow Well-Known Member

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    What's the minimum of fabric you need to have 1.5" cuffs?

    I have a pair of pants that are slightly long and I want to take them in to the tailor, shorten then AND give me some cuffs (they are uncuffed now). There is some fabric on the underside but not sure it would be enough to give me cuffs. I know there's some folding involved.
     
  2. fieldofdreams

    fieldofdreams Well-Known Member

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    3 1/2
    3 1/2" should do the trick. 4" to be on the safe side
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. macjedi

    macjedi Well-Known Member

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    Fieldofdreams is right on the money, but faux cuffs might be an option as well if there isn't enough length. I'm pretty sure it's been discussed here before, certainly on SF. It requires about an inch or so less fabric than a full cuff, but the look is basically the same.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. coolarrow

    coolarrow Well-Known Member

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    ^^^Thanks, guys. Looks like I've got enough!
     
  5. mljs54

    mljs54 Well-Known Member

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    How much should they be let out around the calves? Is there a good guideline? Also, how do I balance this with the thigh/hem width? Seems I can't bring in the thighs and then bring out the calves at the same time, and can then only shorten the hem width? Or am I misunderstanding?

    I'll be going to another tailor bext time, but I at least want this one (SF approved and praised btw...) to finish the job right (3 suits). I think I'm done with NYC tailors in general. Just going to pick up nice OTRs going forward and get them altered. Finished product never seems to be worth the time and money.
     
  6. Ttailor

    Ttailor Well-Known Member

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    How much? Well, until the problem goes away?
    If you stand with hip forward and calves protruding beyond the buttocks, the pattern needs much work. It is a slightly more complex fix than just letting out the calves, though that may help a bit. How much can be let out depends on how much seam allowance has been left on the inseam and outseam.
     
  7. BD22

    BD22 Well-Known Member

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    First, I said nothing about the thighs, which I can't really see in the pictures you've posted. You're taking in the cuffs.

    No one can answer those questions without seeing you in person. Of course, by widening, I don't mean widening at a single point. The idea is to have a trouser that falls straight to your ankles (the side seams should be straight) without wrinkles. It's your tailor's job to achieve this effect on your frame.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2015
  8. BD22

    BD22 Well-Known Member

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    Absolutely
     
  9. greger

    greger Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    Because of the back pockets only a little taking in can be done by dropping the waistband in back. With thumb and index finger you can pinch out the extra cloth to see how much the center back needs to be lifted. Hip pockets sewn in means that the waistband can be lowered only so much.

    Some custom tailors won't put in the pockets until the first fitting, but pre-made trousers don't have that option, so smaller adjustments. If length can be added to the top front that can help, not something I want to do because it is even more work, and may not be any cloth there.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Well-Known Member

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    @Portabiti
    The pants are too tight in the seat, and the jacket has too much waist suppression. Plus, there are serious postural issues.
     
  11. clinteastwood

    clinteastwood New Member

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    Hi, i recently purchased this suit from Ebay, it's a fairly heavy weight pinstripe. I am planning on having the trousers shortened. The jacket is a little longer than previous suits i've had from this tailor and size (DAKS 38L Jacket). I would welcome any comments on its fit. The final picture is a picture of another 38L jacket i have from DAKS by way of comparison. Thanks Clint
     
  12. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Well-Known Member

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    The upper back seems to have excess material, and the shoulders appear to need to be rotated ($$), perhaps due to its occupant's square shoulders. By the way, the tie needs a bigger knot.
     
  13. TOstyle

    TOstyle Well-Known Member

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    Greger that is awesome. Where did you get this - specifically, is it a book I could find on Amazon???
     
  14. greger

    greger Well-Known Member

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    Tailoring Suits the Professional Way
    by Clarence Poulin
     
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  15. TOstyle

    TOstyle Well-Known Member

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    Sweet - thank you.
     
  16. chenzhongbi

    chenzhongbi Well-Known Member

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    IL
    Cross-post from the quick Q&A thread.

    I apologize for the wrinkles on the coat and the pants/sneakers. Was just trying to snap some quick pics.
    Should I have the sides taken in?
    I intend to wear a suit underneath it. The jacket I was wearing in the pictures was a tweed jacket which may be a little thicker than the suits I have.
    The back looks fine for me, but the front looks sloppy. Is it possible to have the sides taken in without ruining the back silhouette?


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  17. klp2332

    klp2332 Well-Known Member

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    Hi everybody! I know that the members of this forum are extremely knowledgeable as well as helpful. And I hate to ask for help but I have been thinking over and over about how I can improve the fit of a jacket that I bought off the rack, but I can't seem to put my finger on it.

    I think the sleeve lengths are pretty spot on. The sleeve pitch is acceptable although its a little on the tight side. The shoulders are largely fine. However, the fit seems too boxy. And then there's that horrible collar gap! Atrocious!

    But I mean, on a whole, I think its still wearable -- I wouldn't be ashamed to be seen wearing this in public! Now, if there's one thing I learned lurking Styleforum, is that the fit can always be improved. What can my taillor do for this jacket? For one, I think the waist needs to be taken in a bit. What else ought to be done? Any opinions, from you style experts out there?

    Thanks in advance!

    BTW, for those interested, the jacket is the 'Our Legacy Rolling Blazer'
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  18. klp2332

    klp2332 Well-Known Member

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  19. ter1413

    ter1413 Well-Known Member

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    Jacket is too short.
     
  20. Tsujigiri

    Tsujigiri Well-Known Member

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    Jul 6, 2013
    Location:
    Orange County
    Hi guys, need help on my first real suit. Here's the off the rack fit. I really like the suit, but I want the fit to be good. Can I get the fit right with alterations, and how would I do this? The shoulders seem to fit well to me, I guess I should take in the waist and chest? Or if nothing can be done, let me know, too. The model is a Brioni Colosseo.


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