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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. MRCV

    MRCV New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2014
    Hi, I impulse bought this 38R off the rack last weekend and wanted some feedback. In the past, I've spent quite a bit of time finding suits. Since this was a quick purchase, I'd like to know if:

    1) The shoulder area is a big concern or can that "dimple" or "divot" be correct by my tailor?
    2) Does the waist suppression seem tight?

    Thanks!

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  2. hypnotiq

    hypnotiq Active Member

    Messages:
    26
    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2012
    If it isn't too much trouble, may I get some opinions on possible changes for this MTM shirt? My apologies for the mess, I'm in the process of moving in.
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    My personal thoughts:
    • The standard sleeve comes with double pleats, and I think I'll reduce that to single pleat.
    • The sleeve itself looks a bit wide on the, especially around forearms, and maybe a tad bit too long.
    • Yoke/shoulder area seems to be pulling a little, not sure what to fix on that part.
    • Neck seems a bit tight. May go up a quarter inch.
    • The collar seems a bit big for my frame. May have to switch to a smaller one. What do you guys think?
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2014
  3. Idreamofsakura

    Idreamofsakura Active Member

    Messages:
    27
    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2013
    Hello Tailors,

    I just got this shirt made trying out a new tailor in Korea. I picked it up yesterday but didn't get to try it out today. I know there are some adjustments that need to be made, like the sleeves but if there is anything else that you can tell me, it would be most appreciated.

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    This is the fabric:

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  4. blulegend

    blulegend New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2013
    Hi everyone.

    Got a second jacket from Black Lapel and also a second shirt. This first jacket took a remake to get it better and then some tailoring. I started out with the tailored fit and then thought it was too tight and had them add some material back and then ended up going to the tailor to take it in again. They offered the remake the first time because of a "sleeve pitch" issue which was suggested here in this thread. So my new jacket, they think they forgot to make it using the sleeve pitch notes in my account. So they are going to remake it again. I wanted to submit photos here for some feedback before committing to the remake.

    Old jacket is navy, new is tan.

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    Regarding the shirt, the both the old one and new one have issues. The old one has a right sleeve that is shorter than the left and I want it a bit longer because when I move my arms, the right sleeve tends to get pulled into my jacket more readily than the left. I also wear my watch on that side so it compounds it. I will have the right cuff of my old shirt widened by moving the buttons, but Black Lapel said the tailor can't make the sleeve itself any longer (haven't actually gone to the tailor about it yet). The new shirt is too tight in the chest. I can't even move without it feeling like the shoulders are going to tear or the buttons popping off. Also the new collar is a touch loose and the collar tips won't sit down. On the old shirt, the collar tips are snugly down.

    Old shirt is white with pin stripes, the new is a microcheck blue.

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    Thanks for your opinions!
     
  5. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    I guess the simple response would be "welcome to online MTM, chap"

    In other words, your clothes look OK for how you've ordered them.

    The issues/problems may not be correctable within their customization options.
    There's a lot that MTM producers don't do when it comes to making custom clothing.
    For instance...collar points not sitting down against the neck? The under collar on all quality dress shirts should be cut 1/8" smaller all around than the upper collar. THen it is stretched that little bit to equal the size of the upper collar. When sewn together, the natural tension will help to delicately pull the upper collar down and inward creating a nice collar roll towards the body.
    Will they always do this step in the factory for online MTM????? Maybe.....MAYBE NOT

    This little example of the old MAYBE/MAYBE NOT game is just a microcausm of the entire online MTM world. Many applications within various garments work the same way.

    Did you get measured in person at a physical storefront?? Yes, you say?

    Doesn't matter! They still use the same pattern making/cutting/construction technique etc etc etc.

    Quick tip: When going MTM, consider a brand that isn't the walmart of MTM.

    Caveat: It's been a long night of drinking for this tailor. Sorry if my response is just a little bit honest.
     
  6. Cuebert

    Cuebert Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    96
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2014
    Hey Folks!

    After already mentioning my concern in the Luxire Thread I was advised to use this thread for suggestions regarding my fit, so here we go:

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    The shirt is based on the following body measurements:

    Neck: 43 cm
    Sleeve: 96 cm
    Shoulder: 49 cm
    Chest: 106 cm
    Across chest: 40 cm
    Across back: 47 cm
    Waist: 87 cm
    Length: 83 cm

    Back: Side Pleats


    Note: I prefer my shirts to fit slim

    The problem I see is a major excess of cloth around the chest- and back area, which probably is caused by my unusual figure:

    I have very slopy shoulders, furthermore my shoulders tend to point towards the front, causing that my back measured from left to right is wider than my chest, so:

    What would you guys recommend? How can the fit be improved? - I have already been advised to just go ahead to a local tailor and pay the extra bucks for a good fitting shirt which I then could hand in to Luxire so that they can build those measurements for my future orders - is this the only possibility you see aswell?

    Thanks in advance!
     
  7. AzDoc

    AzDoc New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2014
    Had a quick question for you guys, I bought a suit a few weeks ago and had to have the waist taken in on the pants. I picked it up and took it home and now the waist is slightly too tight. I can button the pants, but they need to be let out slightly to really fit comfortably. The seat and legs of the pants fit fine now. So my question is basically, once pants have been taken in, is the excess material usually still available on the pants to let them out again? I won't be able to make it back to the store for a week or so because of a busy schedule and I'm just curious about what to expect. Thanks.
     
  8. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Keep the shoulders extra sloped. Mention the forward shoulders stuff, too.

    Narrow the yoke and ask for only +3" across the body fit. If you have swayback, add darts. If you can feel the seams binding against the front of the shoulders, the yoke needs to be narrower. Contrary to some belief, a wider yoke does not make a more comfortable shirt any more than lower armholes allow for more movement.
    Consider losing the side pleats in lieu of a box pleat or no pleats.
    For reference, I have almost the exact same build type as you. Very sloped and very forward shoulders. Also quite prominent blades. I measure 46" across the chest and my shirt yoke is 18.5". Tons of movement at the arms.
    These are my thoughts.
     
  9. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Unless the tailor is a complete fool, inexperienced, or just plain mean, he/she probably left enough material at the center back seam to let the pants out if need be. To be sure, just take a look from the inside of the pants...
    You're looking for what looks a "butterfly" of extra fabric to the left and right of the center back seam. Whatever is there...let's say it's 1" of fabric per side...it can be let out that amount on the double. Or, the case of 1" to each side, it can be let out up to 2" at the waist.

    For future reference, the best way to precisely determine how much a trouser needs to be taken in is to overlap the fly parts until it feels comfortable. Then you take a piece of tailor's chalk and place a vertical mark right next to the part of the fly that overlaps. Now, re-fasten the pants. You'll see an obvious space between where they normally fasten and where the mark is. Let's say it happens to be 1" of space. Well, then you know the waist must be taken in 1".
    Yes, I know there may other ways that tailors use to tell how much must come in, but this method has worked for me without failure as long as I've been doing this job.
     
  10. randomnoob

    randomnoob Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    125
    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2014
    What is a good amount of extra inches on chest/waist/hips for a slim-fitting shirt? I got a custom one made, and before i order more, just want to make sure i tweak it as best as possible. I will wear it with an undershirt and want it to look good tucked in or out.

    My measurements in chest/waist/hips are about 39, 33, 39.
    They made the shirt to measure 43, 39, 41. The chest is good though pulling my shoulders back will still tug at the buttons, though i think this is because fabric gets trapped in my armpits - at a 'regular' posture its ok. I think i want to bring in the waist just worried its going to look hourglass when untucked

    so shirt 2, 4, 6" bigger than actual waist when worn with an undershirt for a fitted look?
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2014
  11. Gosroth

    Gosroth Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    140
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2012
    Location:
    Tokyo
    Another noob wearing Suit Supply, hoping I´ve found cuts that work for me reasonably well. What do you think?

    Suit Supply Havana cut (size 34 /EU44)


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    Suit Supply Boston cut (size 34 /EU44)


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    (Using some clips at the back seam in the last pick, pinching in about an inch and half at waist/chest where it feel rather full).

    Much kudos and respect for running the nr.1 thread on the forum!
     
  12. aglose

    aglose Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    858
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2013
    Location:
    Colorado, USA
    I'm pretty sure (aka don't feel I'm qualified to say that) your jackets are all too short in the length. Try a long maybe?
     
  13. Gosroth

    Gosroth Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    140
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2012
    Location:
    Tokyo
    I'd happily agree with that, but they have no long version of size 34.

    Did try sizing up to 36, shoulders where too big. I do prefer a slightly shorter jacket due to the slimming effect of of a classic length jacket (due to being skinny as it is), but yeah, I'll agree this is on the short side.

    Somewhere in between half to one inch longer would be perfect tough. Being 183 cm and about 58kg this is among the better that I've tried on in RTW, length-wise.
     
  14. suitnoob1

    suitnoob1 New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2014
    Hello friendly people!
    I made an account just for this thread. I am going to a ball in 2 days, so I believe that is not enough time to make significant alterations to my suit as it stands. However, I am wondering if any smaller alterations, the length of the pants for example could be done in time? I know the time period will vary from shop to shop, but how long on average would these smaller jobs take? Thanks for any input! I will also be posting a few pictures of myself wearing the suit to see what you guys think regarding the fit, cheers.
     
  15. ter1413

    ter1413 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    18,042
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2009
    Location:
    Central Booking
    

    I have a place that I sue in NYC that can shorten the pant leg and add cuffs basically while I wait(if they are not busy.) I have also been going there for appr 30 years and know the people well.

    It totally depends on where you live. It sounds like you waited until the last minute to get this done.
     
  16. macjedi

    macjedi Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    656
    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2012
    D-RING SOURCE NEEDED:

    I have a couple pairs of trousers that I need tailored, and while they're at it, I'd like to have the belt loops removed and side adjusters made and added. One pair is a winter white flannel, and the other is an orange linen. Any suggestions on the d-ring hardware finish and where a good place is to source them?

    Thanks so much!
     
  17. RPM1

    RPM1 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    80
    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2014
    Location:
    London
    I was able to have this repaired from the British Invisible Mending Service.

    They charged £55 + VAT, and the repaired area cannot be seen unless you know what you are looking for and look very carefully.
     
  18. thefastlife

    thefastlife Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,840
    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2011
    hey guys...looking for a tailor in Westchester, NY


    anyone?
     
  19. ChandlerBing12

    ChandlerBing12 Active Member

    Messages:
    37
    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2014
    Location:
    Boston / New England
    Alright so I already posted this in the Luxire forum after receiving my first shirt, but I wanted some more feedback in terms of the fit of this classic grey oxford. I ordered this shirt to be both worn tucked in at the office as well as untucked with jeans or chinos for a night out. The shirt looks fantastic tucked in to be honest even though I haven't provided pictures. I think I could shorten up the length of the shirt just a little (nit picky?) so it falls around the upper-middle part of my butt. This is how I usually like to wear my shirts untucked so i think taking a little bit off lengthwise will still achieve a good look both tucked in and untucked. My next problem, which is the most concerning, is that it looks like the bottom measurement is a little wide. While the waist is perfect IMO, the wide bottom creates an hourglass look to the shirt that I think can be avoid in the future. Also how are the sleeves in terms of length? Not sure if I should increase by .25 for the next time.

    This is where you guys come in. What do you guys think I could do to nail my measurements down for my second order? Thanks!

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    Last edited: Aug 19, 2014
  20. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    

    They're not easy to find. I have a bunch of them from different Mtm suits I've ordered for clients (I always order side adjusters in case they one day ask for them). MSG me for details
     

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