1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. himaroto

    himaroto Active Member

    Messages:
    25
    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2013
    Ok thanks AriGold. For reference I also tried the same suit but in a smaller size.
    Too small right ?
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. logan858

    logan858 Active Member

    Messages:
    41
    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2012
    thx otctailor, you're a credit to this community :)


    in relation to both of our posts, the chest can't directly be let out, but i have a question about letting the center back seam of the jacket out. If the center back seam was let out on the upper back, in between the shoulder blades, would that not allow for extra movement in the front of the jacket?
     
  3. logan858

    logan858 Active Member

    Messages:
    41
    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2012
    i forgot to say, *assuming* that the pulling of the lapels wasn't caused by a balance issue.
     
  4. Enthusiasm

    Enthusiasm Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    57
    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2011
    Location:
    The North
    Seeing as I've gotten some great help from here before, I figure I might as well keep bothering you! I'm planning to order an MTM shirt from Luxire, and am considering what measurements to send in. As such, I took one of the few shirts that I feel fit at all any longer, and am now wondering what alterations I should make to it's measurements when I write them down. So, what should be altered in the numbers? [​IMG] [​IMG] Thanks!
     
  5. GMMcL

    GMMcL Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,723
    Joined:
    May 26, 2011
    Howdy, all. This is my first post on this thread, so I apologize if there are conventions I'm ignorant of. I have two items I quite like that have great details like soft shoulders and hand construction. One is an Attolini blue stripe suit, the other is a Zegna triple patch blazer. Unfortunately, the Attolini has closed quarters and ends up looking boxy on me. The Zegna has more open quarters but somehow still ends up looking boxy. (Each also has a few other issues, like length and girth, but I'd only have those remedied if I can fix the boxiness). So that's my question: Can the boxiness be remeided? Is it a matter of opening the quarters, and is that even something that can be done? I'd like them each to fit a bit more like the open quartered exemplars pictured below. It should be cheaper than buying RTW new (which would still have to be altered) or certainly than having custom made. Also, to address a point I suspect some may make, yes, the Zegna is too snug. If I invest to open the quarters, I'd also have it let out. Attolini: [​IMG] Zegna blazer: [​IMG] [​IMG] Exemplars (both Kiton) (Kiton) [​IMG] (Kiton) [​IMG] Thanks in advance for the advice!
     
  6. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    No. The CB seam does not directly affect the chest fit. Letting it out would only elongate the back balance some and throw extra fullness over the blades.
     
  7. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    The backside of the pants probably require a reshaping of the seat and possibly lowering the back waistband to help with the wrinkles. It's an issue caused by forward hips and flat seat.
     
  8. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    First things first is correcting the balance of the jacket from side to side. Your right side is low so you can see the jacket collapsing on that side. A pad in the shoulder would level things out. Don't need to shorten the sleeves as that fix would also pick up the right sleeve.
    Next is the trousers. The balance is off there, too. Need to see how loose the seat is and see if reshaping the seat and straightening the curve/hollowing the curve would be acceptable. Then lowering the back of the waistband to pick up the back rise. That would help with the wrinkles down the back of the legs. Also, the back fork may need to be released and the front fork taken in to reduce the crotch length. Hemming is last contrary to previous poster's response.
     
  9. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    With the Attolini, opening the quarters would help it look a little less boxy at first glance but it's more of a visual illusion. The jackets need more shaping done to the front of the jacket as opposed to the back to relieve the boxy look. It could be less than buying RTW new especially if you're buying KITON or Zegna, but make sure you have a good tailor. All of these jackets are likely full canvas and in order to put shape into the front of the garment, there's a possibility that the pockets would have to be disassembled and taken in thru the underarm seam. This is a challenge 1) because taking apart pockets and putting them back together isn't for the average alterations tailor or seamstress (even I avoid it but can do it) 2) if you take in the front of a jacket that is full canvas, the canvas must also be altered where the seam was altered. That's tricky work, but not to a qualified tailor.

    The standard side seams create suppression more to the back of the jacket. When a guy has a more athletic shape or barrel chest posture, there is that little hollow of space at the ribs under the chest that is tough to apply shape to. From a custom viewpoint, the front darts may be enlarged slightly to nip the front in.
     
  10. ALange

    ALange Active Member

    Messages:
    42
    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2014
    Thanks for the Feedback OTC. Would this be considered "major surgery" or is it something my local tailor can do? Also, any other feedback on the fit before I take the suit in?
     
  11. himaroto

    himaroto Active Member

    Messages:
    25
    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2013
    @OTCtailor and others, thank you

    Here are some better pics (pants hemmed "by hands"). There are also two other suits and I'd like to hear your recommendations.
    I know the first one is short in the body but it is actually supposed to be worn like this.






    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Limniscate

    Limniscate Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    702
    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2008
    Location:
    TX
    

    The sleeves seem a little long.
     
  13. Enthusiasm

    Enthusiasm Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    57
    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2011
    Location:
    The North
    

    Agreed, and an easy fix! But truly that can't be all, or have I such a well fitting shirt without having known it? I feel like the front should be far less wrinkled if that's the case, but I have little knowledge of shirts, so maybe I'm completely wrong. Thanks for the answer anyhow!
     
  14. Smitty5400

    Smitty5400 Member

    Messages:
    8
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2014
    I just ordered an MTM suit from Kent Wang. For those who aren't familiar with the process, they first mail you a trial suit. You try that on, send them pictures, and they offer adjustments to the fit. After agreeing on adjustments, they mail you your MTM suit.

    After emailing fit pics of the trial suit to Aaron Schloff, the director of MTM at Kent Wang, he recommended the following adjustments. I was hoping to get feedback on the fit and suggested adjustments. I would like my final fit to be slim, perhaps similar to the picture
    below.

    [​IMG]


    Here are the recommended adjustments and a few pictures that follow.


    Thank you in advance for any help!

    Jacket

    - Shoulder width looks good

    -Buttoning point -1 cm. Please double check. The buttoning point should be at the narrowest part of your waist. Look at the side of the jacket and see where it curves in the most.

    -Sleeve length -4 cm. Please double check. With your arms laying naturally at your side, your shirt sleeve should end at the third joint (base joint) of your thumb. The jacket sleeve should end 1.5 cm above that.

    -Bicep -1 cm. This will narrow the sleeve slightly.

    -Cuff width -1 cm, if you feel it is too wide.

    -Sleeve pitch backward 0.5 cm

    -Back chest (armpit to armpit) -1 cm

    -How is front chest? Tight? Roomy?

    -Waist +1 cm. It's pulling across the back and causing the vents to pop out.

    -Jacket length XX cm. Please double check. It should cover your butt completely.

    Trousers

    -How does the waist and rise feel? Those are common adjustments Waist looks loose.
    -Seat -1cm

    -Thigh -1 cm continuing down to ankle

    -If you'll measure how long you want the inseam to be, we can hem the trousers for you. It may be more accurate to measure another pair of trousers that fit you well.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  15. sleeppopotamus

    sleeppopotamus Member

    Messages:
    10
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2014
    Hello, tailors. I just wanted to say you guys are awesome for being generous with your time and expertise and offering terrific advice. Many thanks in advance for any and all of your thoughts.

    The suit is linen/wool/silk off the rack with some alterations, but I don't remember what exactly; I'm not very experienced at this.

    The one problem I recognize is that the jacket vent is kicking out, though I suspect there may be other issues.

    I assume getting smushed/folded up by my messenger bag doesn't help. Would it be worth trying to press just that back part so it started laying flat again? It sort of flips up even when I'm not wearing it.

    Oh, right. And I still need to buy dress shoes; the one pair I currently own is actually at school.

    Many thanks again.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2014
  16. AdamWill

    AdamWill Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    255
    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    sleeppotamus: not an expert, but looks to me like it might just need some pressing to make the rear vents sit at least better - looks like they're out of shape as much due to creasing as fit. also if you want the pants judged you need to wear socks and dress shoes, no-one can see if they're correct with you in bare feet.
     
  17. himaroto

    himaroto Active Member

    Messages:
    25
    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2013
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2014
  18. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    This is really not a process that should be done in this manner (by email and mail) BUT to me, the balance of the jacket is off slightly in that it's a little long in the back. You need a sway back/forward hips adjustment as well. Maybe even a little more slope to your shoulders. Don't know if the MTM suit is based off the cut of the trial suit or not.

    The button stance is also personal. shouldn't necessarily be placed at the most narrow part of the torso. It looks ok where it's at.

    The sleeve length def needs to be shorter. If you like the width of the shoulders, have someone fold the sleeve ends up under themselves until you like where they're hitting at your wrists. Then have the person measure their length. If you want the shoulders more narrow (which will help you achieve this more slim fit), then it will change the measure of the sleeves.
    To have a friend measure you is really quite simple. Have them measure from shoulder seam to seam and if you want narrow, go conservative at first. If it measures, say, 19, go to 18.5" etc.
    Then you split that shoulder width in half. So, if it was for example 18.5" shoulder to shoulder you wanted, then 9.25" is half.
    You get shirtless and have your friend put the metal edge of the tape at the middle of the back of your neck. Find that bump to find the middle. Measure over your 9.25" to the right (and then left) and where the 9.25" mark is at, move the metal edge there (mark with an ink pen to be sure where it's at). Place a hair tie around your wrist where it breaks. Have your measure from that little pen mark down the natural curve of your arm right to the hair tie. Make sure they look at eye level where the hair tie is. If a little unsure, just make it a hair longer or don't order working cuffs.

    Regarding sleeve width, yes, ask for a trimmer sleeve bicep and sleeve end.

    The chest looks roomy. Ask them to clean it 1/4" each side (proceed cautiously when slimming the chest)

    The vent of the jacket is not wide enough. One will assume they'll widen that.

    Oh does all sound a little complicated and over your head? Well, go find a tailor or go to their pop up. By mail and online is very tricky.
     
  19. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Looks pretty good for off the rack. Vent width looks too narrow to cover your back side. Maybe the CB seam was adjusted for suppression because it looks like the vents are under tension from a short back balance. Probably both things combine. Pressing will help but may not totally do the job.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. lefty14

    lefty14 Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2014
    Hey guys,

    Just received a slim fit 3 piece navy suit from Black Lapel. Before I send photos to Black Lapel, some critique of the fit/suggestions from you folks would be very much appreciated. (Please disregard the ill fitting shirt, I'm aware).

    My first reactions, please feel free to let me know if you agree/disagree:
    - Pants are too long.
    - Pants are too baggy. (I thought slim would be much slimmer). Is it easy to fix this at a tailor or should they be remade?
    - Vest seems ok.
    - Sleeves are a touch too long.
    - There is some rumpling on the upper front of the jacket between the lapels and the sleeves. What causes this and how do I fix it?
    - Shoulders seem ok, but maybe a touch too big? Interested in your thoughts.
    - There is a roll in the back of the shoulders - how does this get fixed?
    - Pretty big problems with the back of the sleeves - is this caused by the armholes being too high? Can a tailor fix this?
    - The shoulders poof up a bit at the seam where the shoulders meet the sleeves. While sitting on the hanger, this sits perfectly flat. Is this normal?

    Overall, I'm looking for advice on whether these issues can be fixed by a tailor, or whether I'm looking at a remake. Thanks! Let me know if you need more photos.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by