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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. NeedForTweed123

    NeedForTweed123 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, this definitely makes it easier to understand what would be done. So if this was done correctly, would it result in other areas needing to be tailored as an after effect? I know you said the armholes would need re-adjusting, but is that considered major work or is it fairly simple for a decent tailor?
     
  2. NeedForTweed123

    NeedForTweed123 Well-Known Member

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    Dec 4, 2013
    Thanks for the information. Do you know of any good tailors in the South Jersey area? It would be good to have something local before I start taking trips to New York. (Although I know those NY tailors are probably great.)
     
  3. neachdainn

    neachdainn Member

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    Had a few recommendations to post this here for some fit advice, consensus seems to be that the jacket needs to be shortened a bit, and have the pants let out (there is a fair bit of extra material to work with). My biggest problem with clothes in general, is managing to balance my lower body with my upper. I'm blessed with a really difficult frame to work with :/

    Here's the fit...

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    Bunching is partially my fault... I took these photos after a 4 hour dinner function, and another 45 minutes sitting on the train, so the pants were in pretty rough shape.

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    So, suggestions?
     
  4. Rory Duffy

    Rory Duffy Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Williamsburg, Brooklyn, NY
    

    I don't, you might want to check out Thumbtack, I have a dormant account on there, that I've been meaning to close down. Am sure there are alteration tailors offering their services.
     
  5. Rory Duffy

    Rory Duffy Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Williamsburg, Brooklyn, NY
    
    No one person is A symmetrical we all have issues with fit and proportion. Personal I am stooping with a sway back, bow legs and a slight frame, I would be 6ft 2" if I stood up straight but I don't. Considering I make all my own suits I am at an advantage over most people. If Bespoke or MTM is outside of your budget you should try to weight up the costs of buying RTW and having it altered. Be prepared to pay as much in alterations as you did for the garment itself. For me the length is fine, I like a long coat, rule of thumb suggests the hem of the coat should finish at the knuckle of thumb, just as your coat does. Most of my clients are of similar proportions as yourself. In order to give the elusion of a waist I raise the suppression above the prominence of the abdomen, the natural waist is usually round 18" if it where taken up to 16 1/2" it would give your body a slimmer look. The back shoulders need more angle, a cheaper option would be to add extra pads stitched to the original shoulder pads and extending down under the back scye. You seem to have a slight sway back, meaning your hips are rotated forward. Pulling in your stomach would clean up the back of your trousers, as would standing up straighter take the round out of my back, so I know what an up hill battle that can be. The other option is to have the back of the trouser picked up under the waistband which would help clean up the back thigh area. Next time go for a wider leg and hem it will balance out better with your torso. Some issues with the sleeves, but sleeves are notoriously difficult to fix and better off being left alone. It's also expensive and requires the attention of a skilled artisan. The look of the suit isn't necessarily the most important factor, it's how you feel when you wear it.
     
  6. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    The navy jacket needs much more work than the tweed. Would have the tweed jacket done before the navy. Shifting the back and adjusting the sleeve length are all that you may need on the tweed jacket. The tailor can reduce the blades when he adjusts the back. Tweed jacket has a very clean back and will only improve with the adjustment. The fronts will hang better as a result of fixing the back. You need someone experienced with fitting and jacket making for best results. This isn't a common alteration. Not sure the navy jacket is worth doing as it is so much larger across the back and the balance is off more than the tweed. If your tailor can fix the tweed jacket he can advise you about the navy jacket.
     
  7. NeedForTweed123

    NeedForTweed123 Well-Known Member

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    ...
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2014
  8. NeedForTweed123

    NeedForTweed123 Well-Known Member

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    So then should I just return the navy jacket? Is it unfixable or does it require different alterations than the tweed?
     
  9. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    Not unfixable but requires more adjustment than the tweed. The back needs to be shortened more as the picture shows it collapsing on your hips more. This may result in more work to fit the sleeve back into the armhole. May be to the point of removing them to recut them.
    The back is much wider and the shoulder may look even wider after reducing the blade and sides. The fronts cross over more in front because of the long back balance.

    The tweed cloth is more forgiving.

    If you find someone who can do this work they will advise you. Better to know from someone you are face to face with than some yahoo looking at your pictures online. You have to decide how important these jackets are and how much you want to invest in altering them. Even if you buy other jackets at a higher cost, you will most likely have the same fit issues to deal with.
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2014
  10. NeedForTweed123

    NeedForTweed123 Well-Known Member

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    Okay, that makes sense. The jackets weren't expensive, but I also don't have a large budget and I was trying to nail the fit to use as a future reference/template for other jackets. As they are my only jackets, I also want them to fit well for when the occasion arises to wear them.
     
  11. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Well-Known Member

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    Chris, do these pictures exhibit the same issue with the front/back balance like those of NFT123?[​IMG]

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    [​IMG]
     
  12. brillopad

    brillopad Well-Known Member

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    Nov 6, 2011
    Location:
    San Francisco
    Hey everyone,

    New to the Tailor feedback thread, and looking forward to getting some advice here. I thought I would share my initial thoughts on the classic black tuxedo and get a bit of feedback on the fit. The tuxedo is interesting because it is probably the most recommended item in the SuSu store (at least on forums like this), but it's almost impossible to find any information on what it looks like in the wild.

    This is my normal size, 36R. As for the details, it's almost exactly what I wanted - silk grosgrain, big peak lapels, moderately structured shoulders, one button, jetted pockets, etc. I would have preferred a midnight navy, but I'm willing to go without - in my mind, midnight navy sounds good on paper but most examples I see of it are not great (way too blue and conspicuous).

    Initial thoughts: button stance was not as high as I worried it might be, which is great. Not super low, but certainly lower than my other SuSu things. Fabric is pretty nondescript - black worsted, doesn't feel like anything special, but that's fine. VBC S110s, I think. Grosgrain details look good.

    Front looks pretty good. Sleeves need about +1/2". Waist is about right. Jacket length is about right (don't use my arms as a reference, since they're super long). Maybe a bit of extra room in the chest, but I'm not that concerned (if it were bespoke I would just call it "drape").

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    The back is pretty messy. Some of this is due to the fact that the vents are still sewn closed (might return it, so can't open them), but it's still pretty rough. Pants are also still unhemmed (excess tucked inside the leg), but there are some problems on the back of the legs. Thoughts? It seems like opening the vents and adding a bit of space in the back might help, but I'm not sure. Also, the pants are pretty messy in the seat and back thigh, but I have no idea how to address this. They feel slimmer than most trousers I wear, but look like they hang looser, which is counterintuitive. The ripples on the back of the trousers lessen significantly if I hike them up on my rear, but obviously that isn't really a solution.

    [​IMG]

    Shoulders fit fairly well, but there's some amount of rippling behind on the sleeve back. Sleeve pitch problems?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Overall, it seems like a fair starting point, especially considering how hard it is to find an inexpensive tux with all the right details. The tux used to be $469, and for that price I would be all for it (and willing to go in for some heavy alterations), but the new price of $569 makes me think a bit more seriously about it. Here's the thing: I can get a MTM suit from a local guy (a guy I have used before and have some confidence in) for about $750-800. I would use the same detailing more or less, but with a midnight navy (if they have a decent one), and would expect the fit to be better. That's more than I would like to spend, but once I start adding up alteration costs for the one above, it becomes a close call. I do like the SuSu one, but it needs some help. And it should go without saying that these pictures are pretty harsh and make it look worse than it would were I moving around or not standing like a robot. Any thoughts are appreciated.

    Oh, for reference - here's me in a 36R Havana last year (in much nicer lighting).

    [​IMG]
     
  13. K-Dawg

    K-Dawg New Member

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    Apr 2, 2014
    Hi, I would like some feedback on the Benjamin Sartorial Classico suit I just purchased before I decide to have it altered. I'm 6' 153 lbs and it seems that I normally wear a 40R, but eHaberdasher did not have that size in stock in Navy, so I went with a 40L. I think the coat length is okay. Obviously the sleeves need to be shortened, and I have the bottoms of the legs folded under in these pictures. Any input is greatly appreciated before I go speak with a tailor. Thanks!
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    Last edited: Apr 2, 2014
  14. bmathe02

    bmathe02 Well-Known Member

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    Oct 18, 2010
    If you shortened a jackets length can you move the pocket or the flap up so it does not look un-proportional .? Thank you.
     
  15. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    No can do, unless it is a patch pocket with no vertical match in cloth
     
  16. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Well-Known Member

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    Vancouver, BC
    If it's shortened from the shoulders, everything moves up. If you shorten it from the bottom, you are basically talking about reconstructing the entire jacket. I think it is possible, but would not be worth it.
     
  17. bmathe02

    bmathe02 Well-Known Member

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    Thank you despos and the groom for your replies.
     
  18. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    This is all wrong
     
  19. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Well-Known Member

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    I actually thought I was in the Ask/Answer thread, or would not have answered. That is how my tailor explained it to me - basically take the jacket apart, cut it at the shoulders, and put it back together, and then adjust the other pieces to fit the new shape of the jacket. His main point was, he could theoretically do it, but a new jacket would be vastly more sensible.

    That isn't meant to contradict you; perhaps I misunderstood what he was telling me, or maybe it is something he would never do, but that was the explanation he used to dissuade me from attempting it with a different tailor. I certainly am not recommending this to anyone.
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2014
  20. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    When shortening a jacket at the bottom the most difficult and time consuming part is remaking the front edge into the curve and into the hem followed by remaking the vent or vents, The rest is a straight hem.

    Shortening a jacket from the top involves removing the sleeves, opening the shoulders and removing the collar.

    Shorten the jacket along the shoulder line then re shape the armhole,. Make the shoulder and replace the pad if there is one.

    Either the collar is too long now and you need to lower the gorge by reshaping the lapels (which can't be done if the lapel buttonhole is cut thru) or shorten the collar. The breast pocket is positioned higher on the chest now.

    Next is to fit the sleeves to the new armhole and maybe adjust the sleeve length.

    This is recutting/remaking a jacket and is soooo much more work than shortening a jacket at the bottom along the hem. If you read your post you said the opposite.
     

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