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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    It should be fixed, if possible. It's for a tailor, in person, to determine exactly why, aside from the excess length, that's happening. It might be due to the underlying dimensions of the lower body, which shouldn't be shown here.
     
  2. spoonstar

    spoonstar New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2013
    I got a shirt from Luxire in recently, and I'm looking to make some slight adjustments to nail down the fit. My sleeves billow a bit still, and there is definitely some excess fabric in the lower back. So far, I'm looking to:
    • adjust the neck by +0.25", it's a tad too tight on my adam's apple.
    • adjust the sleeve length by -0.25"
    • adjust the sleeve width by -0.5"
    • adjust waist and bottom backs by -1.0", keeping front the same as previous

    There is some slight pulling of my shirt when raising my arms, which I included a picture of as well. Is there something I could change to alleviate that? Do my adjustments sound good/awful, or any other things I may have missed?

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  3. sultan22

    sultan22 Active Member

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    Feb 21, 2014
    Location:
    Toronto
    I'm no expert, so I will limit my feedback to my first impressions as a regular observer.

    1. The pants are too long.
    2. The jacket sleeves seems to be long as well.
    3. Maybe the jacket is also about an inch or so too long ?

    From here onwards it will be more about my style preference. So I would keep quiet and let the experts comment.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. sultan22

    sultan22 Active Member

    Messages:
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    Feb 21, 2014
    Location:
    Toronto
    @mensimageconsultant thanks for your reply on the other thread. Very valuable feedback.
    I'm also posting here to solicit more feedback as mentioned in the other thread.

    Please help critique the trial shirt I received from Modern Tailor.
    The sleeves are very short due to a severe misunderstanding. I provided the inside length of the sleeve and it was taken as the outside length. The picture in the guide is a bit misleading, but to be fair the desc says outside.

    Apart from the obvious issue what else needs to be corrected ?

    I'm not sure why there is pooling at the back? Otherwise it seems decent.
    The measurements I provided are from a slim fitting shirt I liked, and for the most part it seems good.

    My concerns are.
    1. Why there is pooling at the back?

    2. Is the shirt too fitting ?
    (This is more about my style preference than anything, as they did it based on my measurements).

    3. Does the collar look all right?

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  5. Xancatrius

    Xancatrius Well-Known Member

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    Feb 7, 2013
    Can anyone explain to me the merits of hand stitching the lapel line? I don't mean the actual lapel itself, but the line on which the fabric is folded outward to form the lapel. I have a few jackets, and some have the lapel lines hand stitched (I can feel the stitches while running my fingers along the line) while others are simply folded back onto the jacket itself.

    Can anyone enlighten me on this? Thank you.
     
  6. jefferyd

    jefferyd Well-Known Member

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    Aug 25, 2008
    Location:
    Rochester, NY
    

    Unless your suit is from Oxxford or a good bespoke maker, this line is not stitched by hand but by blindstitch machine. And they are virtually all done by machine, whether you can feel it or not.

    The roll line, as it is called, has a tendency to gape, or pull away at the chest. To help prevent this, a piece of tape is sewn invisibly along this line, and as it is sewn it is being pulled to effectively shorten the roll line, which helps this area hug the chest. Sometimes the tape is very heavy, sometimes light. Also the type of thread can vary which is why it is easier to feel in some garments and not others. Inexpensive makers may only glue this tape down and not stitch it down, in which case you will feel only the tape and no stitching.
     
    2 people like this.
  7. pbuk

    pbuk New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2010
    Hi ,looking for help.
    I recently bought Neil Barrett jacket on line.
    I always have to get the arms shortened on everything I buy and with functional cuffs my tailor always does this from the shoulder.
    The jacket has button holes stitched in but not cut with the 2 buttons nearest the cuff on the inside edge and the second 2 visible on the outside
    The labels attached state" the first two buttonholes on the sleeve of this garment are deliberately closed to allow the sleeves to be shortened.
    Remember to ask the store to cut the two closed buttonholes if the sleeves are the correct length"
    None of the button holes are open and if the sleeves were shortened from the cuff the stitches round the uncut buttonholes would still show .
    Is there something I'm not getting as my thoughts are to get my tailor to shorten from shoulder as usual and open the four buttonholes and move second two buttons to inside edge [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Rory Duffy

    Rory Duffy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Nov 11, 2013
    Location:
    Williamsburg, Brooklyn, NY
    False or dummy buttonholes are a common feature. Indeed my former masters at Pooles would have the first two as dummies and the second two real, to allow for alteration. When the buttonholes are hand-sewn these stitches can be removed without scaring the cloth.

    In this instance they are by machine, for the same principle. Unfortunately the machine can scare the cloth when removed, particularly on a cotton or corduroy like this one. If it where a wool perhaps the scaring would be minimised.

    In short, you've missed nothing, the production manager has.
     
  9. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    NYC
    
    the shirt is too tight n the waist and hip add 2" to both and then take in with darts.
     
  10. sultan22

    sultan22 Active Member

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    Feb 21, 2014
    Location:
    Toronto
    Thank you for your feedback. That could fix the pooling in the back?
     
  11. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    NYC
    

    it will help
     
  12. sultan22

    sultan22 Active Member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Toronto
    Thanks a lot!
    The response from Modern Tailor has been quite slow.
    Lets wait and see what they plan to do. I asked if they could redo the shirt for me.
     
  13. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Well-Known Member

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    NYC
    

    who made the mistake on the sleeve measurement?
    his is the reason I do not want an online MTM shirt business.
     
  14. sultan22

    sultan22 Active Member

    Messages:
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    Feb 21, 2014
    Location:
    Toronto
    It was a missunderstanding. I provided the inside length and what they expected was the outside length.
    I'm sure I'm not the only one who confused this measurement.

    The customer service folks got back to me saying the tailor thought the sleeve length was unusually short and asked me to measure again.
    But it wasn't made clear it was the outside length that was required.

    They also said the armhole and bicep width was too small. However I didn't notice any issues there.
    At least I was comfortable moving around in it and I normally like to wear fairly slim fit shirts.
     
  15. bbarling11

    bbarling11 Member

    Messages:
    6
    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2014
    Hi Guys,

    I'm after some advice on my first MTM suit I had made in Northampton UK. It was made for my brother-in-law's wedding (hence the lining details).

    I'm concerned about the fit. On the first fitting it was way too big so I had it tapered a lot. However, I think it still feels too big.

    Also, I've noticed it pulls to the left slightly, pulling the right vent open.

    The trousers are also not quite right, pulling on the right.

    Any and all suggestions on how to correct this suit would be greatly appreciated as it was £750. If it is not right I'll ask for it to be re-made.

    The guy I bought it off has great testimonials and is very genuine so I'm sure he will correct what is nessesary.

    Thanks.

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  16. mobilenemo

    mobilenemo Member

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    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Hi Guys,

    I posted this in the suitsupply thread and wanted to get a tailor's opinion. I'm deciding between the Napoli 38S or the Sienna 40S. I'm concerned with shoulder fit. On both suits, there are some indents at the top of the sleeve wear it meets the shoulder. Can this be fixed by a tailor?

    For reference, I'm 5'-7", 165lbs, weight lift and am a cyclist. Thanks!

    Napoli Navy 38S. The jacket felt like it fit well.


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    Napoli 38S pants were very tight in the butt, thigh and waist area. I had a hard time sitting and reaching down to tie my shoes. I felt like the pants could bust open at any time. Is it possible to make these areas wider?
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


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    Napoli 40S

    Jacket is alot more roomier than the 38S. Is it possible to take the waist in on the 40S to make it more tapered like the 38S jacket?

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    Napoli 40S pants

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    Sienna 38S

    Do the shoulders look too narrow? They felt more snug than the Napoli 38S.
    [​IMG][​IMG]


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    The Sienna 38S trousers were snug but felt better than the Napoli 38S.
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    Sienna 40S

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  17. thenewguy

    thenewguy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    84
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    Location:
    TN
    I recently made a big leap and had a MTM suit made for me. I am usually a thrift/ebay/alter guy. I wanted to get some feedback on the jacket. It has a couple things I am questioning and wondering if I am just being overly picky or just off on my thoughts.

    1. Is the pocket placement too low? The jacket came in a little long and they shortened it. I feel like it make the pockets low, but the button stance doesn't seem to be too off. It was shortened somewhere around 0.75" to 1". The top of the pocket flap hits right around the bottom of the belt.

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    2. The left sleeve has some weirdness going on up by the shoulder. I posted both sides for reference.

    [​IMG]
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    3. The left shoulder has a bump right near the end before going into the sleeve.

    [​IMG]

    Thoughts?
     
  18. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,536
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    The pockets are at a proper height. They would be better if they were placed horizontally closer to the belly button instead of at the hips.

    The shoulders are too big. That ruins the whole look and cannot easily be improved by tailoring. Actually, the poor drape of the pants also is ruinous. Unfortunately, the suit seems to be another MTM disaster, begging the question of why not just buy off-the-rack?
     
  19. clb89

    clb89 Member

    Messages:
    18
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2014
    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    Hi master tailors,

    I would like to ask couple questions regarding the dress pants

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    In the first photo, is that too much of a break or just fine on my right foot?

    Second photo, is the creasing in the back considered normal? how do you minimize it?

    Thanks in advance for feedback
     
  20. Terpo

    Terpo Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    269
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2013
    Location:
    Europe
    Dear Tailors,

    I've been experimenting with different collars and was wondering if I could get your opinion on this one and its effect on my silhouette. I would imagine the collar band could be raised another half inch, while the collar itself is OK the way it is. What do you think?

    [​IMG]
     

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