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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. f800gs

    f800gs Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    153
    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2012
    @oviov I can't help with fit but what brand is the espresso machine on the counter?
     
  2. hombreingwar

    hombreingwar Member

    Messages:
    15
    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2010
    Location:
    Philadelphia, PA
    Still on a lookout for my first sport jacket (versatile and leaning to a casual more). I wonder if I should keep this one(j.crew, 40% discount).
    What do you think please? Tailorable? Casual and versatile enough color/pattern?

    38R (I'm 6ft, 145-150 lbs) I guess rare 37L would be better for me (36R is usually tight in the chest and too short on me).
    http://i.imgur.com/XRhtfbG.jpg
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2014
  3. Saxo

    Saxo New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2014
    Location:
    Norway
    Thank you for the feedback! I guess the conclusion is, that it is not worth trying to correct it - recut sleeves and sloping the shoulders sounds expensive, and it was a rather cheap suit (450 $). Problably better to search for a suit that fits me better OTR. But now at least I know what to look for!
     
  4. VOGESUS

    VOGESUS New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2014
    Well I've ordered like 3 times from MT and this latest order I switched the posture to straight and shoulders to square.
     
  5. VOGESUS

    VOGESUS New Member

    Messages:
    4
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    Jan 19, 2014
    Thank you. So I should increase the measurement of my chest?

    Here's my current measurements from MT. We're talking half chest correct?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  6. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    It is definitely worth it to search around for a brand that might fit you better OTR. Understand, however, that most OTR brands are going to style their cuts near "normal" with shoulders, chest, back, stomach etc. I would say as a general guideline if one of those critical upper body fitting areas esp shoulders is horribly off, don't waste your time and money.
     
  7. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    So one thing we don't have here in this thread is a working knowledge of whoever/whatever company you're going thru with these postural observations when combined with your actual measures and pics. Therefore, it's just about impossible to tell you how to proceed. Considering your pics were also very limiting, this reply post is just about useless.

    We're here to help. If it were any other way, we would tell you.

    There are too many moving pieces that you've unintentionally left out that any professional here would need in order to properly diagnose and address your issue.
     
  8. Zacharrrr

    Zacharrrr Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    79
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2013
    hey guys, I need some help here. I have posted these two pics in another thread looking for help.
    I have a massive problem with shirts I get from my MTM maker. He is local and i always have the issue with shirts from this guy that dress shirts are bulging. My body shape is probably athletic and I wanna know what the problem is here and what I need to look out for so I dont have this problem again. See pics.

    pic1: notice how when im standing up the shirt das not fall "clean" and is bulging. Sorry if I cant desribe it any better.

    [​IMG]

    pic2: this is what happens when I sit down. self explanatory. this is just unacceptable.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2014
  9. ovlov

    ovlov Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    604
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2013
    Location:
    Adelaide
    Thanks for the input guys.
     
  10. VOGESUS

    VOGESUS New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2014
    Understood. What can I do to get to a point where more help could be provided? Is the lack of good photos the limiting factor?
     
  11. madoxoflondon

    madoxoflondon Member

    Messages:
    6
    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2014
    Location:
    London
    Since you have asked for measurements a few times now I will give them but I want to repeat the massive caveat that there really are no firm rules : just sketch various permutations (or have your tailor do it) and see what you like.

    As an example, I just measured the suit below and there is 4" between each button and 2.75" between the top button and the highest point of the pocket which is slanted, as you can see from the image.

    [​IMG]
    Now, returning to the caveat: the (womens) jacket below, from Chanel, is a design classic. In fact it's such an iconic and loved design that I actually took this photo last weekend at the Design Museum in London where it is being exhibited currently.

    The reason I use this as an example is that there are many elements of proportion on this jacket that could be considered 'off' or 'untraditional' ... yet together the effect is quite stunning. I hope this visual example serves to illustrate the point that there is not a 'fixed' way of doing things and that great results can be had with some experimentation - that is part of the fun of bespoke!

    Cheers

    [​IMG]
     
  12. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,106
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    I think this is directed at me? Thanks again for the photoshopped pic of my jacket. I think you hit the ideal buttoning point for that jacket and I will make sure to communicate that to the MTM person next time round. THis is all very helpful for us non-tailors.
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. Shazam

    Shazam Member

    Messages:
    8
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2014
    The problem with my shirts is the pulling from both shoulders towards the top buttons. Reading this topic made me think I have square shoulders and the shoulders of the shirts slope too much. Would decreasing the slope in future orders solve this problem, and how much (1 inch/2 inch)?

    It feels like there is just not enough fabric to close the top buttons. Moreover, I think my chest pushes forward while my shoulders lean back. Must shoulder pitch also be adjusted? Also thought about yoke and chest measurements, so I'm kind of lost of what the real problem is. Hope you guys can enlighten me.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2014
  14. jweiht

    jweiht Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    54
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2014
    Got a question that some of you may think is stupid.

    My late dad was fortunate enough to own like more than 20 designer (Zegnas, Lanvin, Dior, LP) suits..etc. He wear 48 and i probably a 36, so there is no way I'm able to wear any of it and it has been left there for 2 yrs.

    However, there is a favourite of his which is a cashmere overcoat which I'm thinking of altering for myself. More for sentimental reasons than anything else.

    Is it possible? Cost is so much a concern unless it's ridiculous.
     
  15. gringodaddy

    gringodaddy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    797
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2013
    Location:
    new york city
    Can knitwear be altered? I've lost a significant amout of weight and would like to have a few sweaters taken in. If so, can anyone recommend a tailor in NYC that does this?
     
  16. gringodaddy

    gringodaddy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    797
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2013
    Location:
    new york city
    Can knitwear be altered? I've lost a significant amount of weight and would like to have a few sweaters taken in. If so, can anyone recommend a tailor in NYC that does this?
     
  17. dohare

    dohare Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    195
    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2013
    i've always wondered this as well... i'm almost positive it has to be doable, i would imagine its similar to taking in a shirt or pant taper.
     
  18. berniep56

    berniep56 Member

    Messages:
    23
    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2012
    Hey guys, I bought this sportcoat, while it fits pretty well in the body, I am a little worried about the shoulders. There is some divoting going on, especially on my right shoulder. I've looked at Jeffrey's post here http://www.styleforum.net/t/151698/divot-terror. Am I overthinking the divoting on the jacket or should I consider sizing up one and tailor the body down?

    [​IMG]
     
  19. bbob2013

    bbob2013 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    102
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Cross post from Luxire thread:



    I sent a good fitting pair of jeans for cloning, the jeans had a slight boot cut (flair out below the knee). My issue is, the side seams appear to be too far forward, making the side seams "wrap" around my thigh and calf. This is less noticeable when standing, but when seated the side seam goes from my pocket then more on top of my thigh and then down on top of my calf. This is very hard to explain and difficult to photo due to the darkness of the material. It almost feels like the seams are crooked, but they aren't. I think what is going on is: talking about circumference around the leg (thigh for example), there is more material across the back from inner to outer leg seam, than the front from inner to outer leg seam. Maybe this photo will help: please note the crease in the pant leg, which is perfectly centered on the leg, but once on and standing the seam kicks off to one side. Both legs do this. Any ideas what is going on here is greatly appreciated, and more importantly, how I can effectively communicate this upon my next order. (I do not fault Luxire at all on this, and after some inspection, the jeans are the same way, just not as noticeable, so they did exactly what I asked. I would just like to correct this issue on future orders)

    [​IMG]


    Thanks everyone!
     
  20. HuskyDandy

    HuskyDandy Active Member

    Messages:
    33
    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2013
    Location:
    Southern Rhode Island
    Heavier guys like a higher button...if the top button has a lower stance it emphasizes large bellies. I think 3-button jackets look better on heavier guys as well for this reason
     

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