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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

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    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    This^

    And you can have the back area let out and get a tailor to suppress through the front to increase the shaping there.
     
  2. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Interesting that you say it fit fine in the shoulders but then consented for him to do work to such a critical part of the jacket. Should be fine but my advice in the future is don't fix what isn't broke.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. sean anon

    sean anon Well-Known Member

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    Yes, afterwards I had some anxiety about this which is why I posted and next time will be more aware.

    If I understood him correctly he thought they did a poor job on the shoulders so it is not like he is taking an 80's jacket and trying to make it a natural shoulder. More like he said the roped (I think) shoulder looked cheap and he was going to change the pad and make it look better. I actually argued a bit and he said it was a pretty good value otherwise but the shoulder was off. In hindsight and after research it seems suspect now but I trusted his judgement.

    We'll see. I will post the results. I'm going to be really pissed at this guy if he makes things worse.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2013
  4. SFA

    SFA Well-Known Member

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    Jan 17, 2010
    Location:
    Toronto
    

    Thanks for the reply guys. The whole having hyperlordosis comes as a suprise (not shock.. as I've been dealing with upper backpain and spasms all my life. multiple family doctor visits had them only conclude nothing was worong). However, my wife doesn't think I have hyperlordosis, and more of a lardosis (i.e., need to lose weight in stomach area and butt area) problem :)

    Do you guys see anything with the shoulders being too big. I posted the same pic in the WAYRN thread, and one of the comments were the a) shoulders are too big, and b) the jacket is too long.
    I can never really tell how shoulders are too big, I guess they are, seeing how the store i bought the suit from was probably trying to fit me into something that would deal with my gut/hyperlordosis problem, but I don't believe the jacket is too long, as I'm not a big fan of having it too short (I'm only a 5'9 guy.. so not very tall). The darker suit/jacket is a M2M samuelsohn, I'm a little dissapointed I wasn't fitted properly as it also looks just as bad as the grey pal zileri (It's an OTR).

    Anything wrong with sleeves? To me the back of the jacket looks like a wreck. I don't know if it's just unrealistic to have a suit jacket fit properly in the back with not much wrinkling, but looking at these pics my wife helped me take suprised me quiet a bit as I never though the back actually looked like this.

    Biggest hurdle now is trying to find a tailor here to try and fix this.
     
  5. Cubits

    Cubits Well-Known Member

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    The arm holes look pretty big/low, and there is a pitch issue with the sleeves, but the shoulders/back looks fairly alright (maybe a teeny bit of slack across the shoulder blades). The length is fine, better to be too long than too short.

    The pool of cloth in your mid back is due to the "sticky-outy" butt causing the cross-section of your torso to pull on the suit, even if the waist is fine. It's not so much about letting the suit out as it is about matching the curve of the back to yours (has to come out at the bottom, and either stay or go in slightly at the waist/mid-back).

    And you do appear to have some lordosis going on. It may be more pronounced due to lardosis, but exercising towards a better posture would help you more than just losing weight. I used to have it too, due to a poor "over-arched" posture which was fostered in elementary school. Try clenching your glutes to see what you'd look like with a normal pelvic tilt, it should reduce your apparent gut and butt.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2013
  6. kulata

    kulata Well-Known Member

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    SFA, your stomach and gut are not that big, it is lordosis that makes them look pronounced. I too thought I was fat especially with stored fat in my lower belly and a very pronounced rear, but it was due to years of bad posture. It's until you start standing straight using your glute muscles to support your posture, that is when the back of the jacket will look clean. I had a DB that fit me perfectly in front and I was happy with it till my wife took a picture of the back and I was horrified to say the least. I started including yoga and stretches in my work out and now my jackets fit better at the back.

    Start with these simple exercises

    http://jamesonwolfffitnesssystems.com/2012/good-posture-hyper-lordosis/

    And have your tailor take out fabric at the back and shape the front to compensate. Good luck!
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2013
  7. clinteastwood

    clinteastwood New Member

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    Aug 1, 2013
    Jackets are back from the tailors. From the front i'm happy. Not 100% happy with the back and the back vent. Is this something i should have expected or is it a bad job? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Clint.

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  8. ellsbebc

    ellsbebc Well-Known Member

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    The vents should not open like that when standing upright.
     
  9. Deviantfish

    Deviantfish Member

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    Location:
    Texas
    I just picked up a Corneliani mainline suit for pretty cheap, fits me well in the shoulders (or at least I think it does), but could use some alterations (Definitely slimming/hemming the pants, they're a disaster, maybe a little waist suppression, perhaps shortening the length slightly, pressing it into a proper 3-2 roll). Would appreciate any feedback, I'm pretty new to alterations/properly sized suits other than getting pants hemmed.

    Apologies for the lack of shoes as well, I figured the pants need enough work that they wouldn't really add anything.
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    Last edited: Aug 13, 2013
  10. kulata

    kulata Well-Known Member

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    Fix the balance issue (Front is shorter than the back), taper and hem the pants and it looks like you are good to go IMO.
     
  11. superfishy8

    superfishy8 Well-Known Member

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    last bump. hoping someone can actually tell me the issue here
     
  12. Maccimus

    Maccimus Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Shanghai
    
    You may iron this part and see if it works...
     
  13. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    It could be a variety of issues. maybe some humidity hit that area and the seam is puckering? Someone needs to physically look at it in order to give you a real qualified response
     
  14. armstwa

    armstwa Active Member

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    Aug 16, 2010
    I ordered a 3 piece navy suit off of black lapel. I received it a couple of weeks ago and finally got some pictures. Overall, I was surprised at how close it came for the first one and multiple measurements with my friend (who wasn't the best at measuring). I have a few thoughts and will post them below, but wanted to see if anyone had any other thoughts. The shirt is a Proper Cloth and the vest BL made fit well.

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    • I think the jacket is a little long
    • I think the sleeves are either a little too long or my shirt sleeves are too long (I know this is an easy fix)
    • I think the shoulders are a little wide, they protude ever so much from the edge of mine
    • I think the collar does not fit as snug behind my neck as it should, they made it for "erect posture" because my shoulders sit forward from my neck, maybe the regular is correct
    • Something's up with the pants, they taper too much at the ankle


    Overall, this is their slim fit (slimmest option), I was hesitant to order it but they recommended it for me. The pants had a hard time getting around my shoes.

    I sent these to Black Lapel, and they advised me to have my tailor make the corrections. They think I should have him shorten the jacket by an inch, taper the sleeves and take them up slightly, take it in around the hips, shorten my pants. They admitted the shoulders looked slightly wide but nothing too big. I wasn't too happy with that reply, as I know my tailor is a) expensive (this would cost way over the $75 allotted) and b) shortening a jacket at a tailor is a bad idea. I've heard great things about the service so I'd imagine they would remake if I requested.

    Thanks for your feedback guys. This is my first "big" suit purchase, so want to get it as close to perfect as possible.

    Wade
     
  15. smoothmoose

    smoothmoose Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    San Jose, California
    ^^ your photos are at a bad angle. try to take them straight on. you might also want to take some pics with the jacket off, to better review the fit of the pants.
     
  16. bobba1293

    bobba1293 Member

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    I'm having an expensive tailor made jacket made by internet order, and they sent me a sample to check if the fit is ok before they make it. I think the arm holes are too big because it pulls whenever I move the arms (am I right?), but other stuff may need changing too. What should I ask them to change?

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    Last edited: Aug 15, 2013
  17. armstwa

    armstwa Active Member

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    I agree, my brother thinks he's a professional photographer and takes them his way. Given that I am a busy, single man, it's near impossible to get someone to take pictures of you in a 3 piece suit too often. I'm hoping the pictures I have can give some general ideas. I've added some with just the vest below.

    Any comments are appreciated.

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  18. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Well-Known Member

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    This is purely my uneducated guess, but I'm thinking it could be a result of a poorly constructed suit being pressed too often and/or incorrectly.
     
  19. a tailor

    a tailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    

    go to the tutorials click on "fare ward shoulders".

    remember to go to the tutorials for answers.
     
  20. superfishy8

    superfishy8 Well-Known Member

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    Jan 14, 2012
    It's from a brand new Ring Jacket suit. don't think its too poorly constructed at all and never been pressed
     

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