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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. VinnyMac

    VinnyMac Well-Known Member

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    How much is he charging you to "take in the shoulders?"

    It's tough to judge the length or shoulder fit with that pose and camera angle.
     
  2. kayhill

    kayhill Well-Known Member

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    Australia
    In terms of coat length, because the perspective of that photo is top down it's very hard to judge whether the length is too long or not.

    Two rules of thumb:
    - does the coat cover your derriere?
    - if you have your hands by your side, is the coat approximately where your knuckles are?

    If so then I would say the length is about right.

    The shoulders look a little wide from the photo, but that could be because you have broad shoulders.
     
  3. bomgd3

    bomgd3 Member

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    My shoulders are actually pretty narrow so that's why the suit feels a bit wide. As for the angle, sorry! I would take another photo but I already left the suit at the tailor. The suit does cover my butt, but it just feels pretty long. I have a long torso so maybe that is part of the issue.
     
  4. bomgd3

    bomgd3 Member

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    Repost
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2013
  5. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

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    If you do enough research you'll have your answer. Otherwise, just trust your tailor. Or take better pics and don't be in such a hurry.
     
  6. bomgd3

    bomgd3 Member

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    not all of us has tons of spare time and money to figure this out. That's why I'm here, since presumably there are some experts in this forum.

    Oh, and the tailor is doing this free of charge. Thanks for the thoughtful responses.
     
  7. Touching Cloth

    Touching Cloth Active Member

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    Haha you made me go back and make sure. No, it's actually just the creases from where it was folded when shipped to me. It only has a central seam.
     
  8. lychyrychy

    lychyrychy Well-Known Member

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    You have lower right shoulder, which is common in most men, that causes wrinkles underneath your arm pits in the back. To remedy this, take it to a competent tailor to add shoulder pads.
     
  9. lychyrychy

    lychyrychy Well-Known Member

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    Jacket might have issue with front and back balance, the front might be a bit short but its hard judging from the pictures. It's okay with the front a bit longer than the back but never shorter than the back. For me the main issue is the pants, it could be that you're sagging your pants that causes wrinkle behind you or your pants seat is not for your build.
     
  10. No Clue

    No Clue New Member

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    Jul 14, 2013
    

    Thanks for the response!

    Please forgive my amateur/ignorant question Re: the vents, but yes there's a stitch at the bottom of both vents. Am I supposed to cut that stitch?

    Thanks!
     
  11. kayhill

    kayhill Well-Known Member

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    Yeah mate, the vents should be open. Think of that stitching as packaging.
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2013
  12. kayhill

    kayhill Well-Known Member

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    Generally speaking you look very good in that suit.

    I agree with lychyrychy that the coat seems to be a little bit short from the front, but that could simply be perspective.

    My personal preference would be to hem the pants just a touch higher so there are no creases around your ankles.
     
  13. RDiaz

    RDiaz Well-Known Member

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    This is interesting. For my MTM summer trousers I ask for a lower rise (to wear them a bit lower on my waist, avoiding looking ridiculous without a jacket), yet they always look better if I hike them up to my natural waist, an inch above the navel. But then they obviously end up too short and are uncomfortable at the crotch. I'm wondering if it's a common thing with MTM (i.e., they change the rise and at the same time move the point where fullness for the hips is located, thus forcing you to wear your pants at the same height no matter what the rise is).
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2013
  14. TomR77

    TomR77 Member

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    Dec 29, 2012
    Hello,
    I am eyeing a (used) Old England jacket, but it seems like it will have to be taken in and my Atlanta-based tailor told me that jackets with a double vent cannot be taken in. Is this true? The size is 46 (German) grosse, which I suppose means "wide" or somesuch. The shoulders fit well but I hesistate because it has to be taken in, and is also perhaps a little short.
    Unfortunately it's still in the store, so I can't post pictures.
    Thanks if you can help.
    Tom
     
  15. Realtor

    Realtor Active Member

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    Deleted.
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2013
  16. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Well-Known Member

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    You have the squarest shoulders I have ever seen. Fit looks decent, though. I'd say the sleeves are too short and/or cuff too tight.
     
  17. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Well-Known Member

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    Never had any trouble taking in double vented jackets. I typically have to do this with all my jackets as I"m very skinny with shoulders a bit on the broad side.
     
  18. mrjester

    mrjester Well-Known Member

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    Excess fabric on the upper back as well.

    And yeah. Damn. Dem shoulders.
     
  19. Cubits

    Cubits Well-Known Member

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    Back the cuffs off a notch, there seems to be enough material to let them drop a little. It's good on the chest and hips, but needs to come in at the waist.
     
  20. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

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    Location:
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    Good MTM will allow the seller to state the rise either in one fixed measure based on height i.e. about 9 to 12 inches is the usual range from shortest person to tallest. My maker allows me to state the rise from the crotch point measuring to the top of the fly and to the top of the back of the waistband. There are a multitude of ways that I know I can change that in order to affect a particular result.
    Otherwise, yes, the higher the rise, the greater the flexibility to manage the fullness distribution. It's simply much easier to transition through what could be 8+ inches in difference from the waist to the hips when there is more room to do that. Because the intended function of pleats is to throw fullness over a forward stomach and shapely thighs/seat, it only makes sense that you'd see a higher rise on them so that they create a kindof curtaining effect when draped over the leg. It is possible to make a slim fit pleated trouser, but the wearer really still should be slim himself IMHO.
     
    1 person likes this.

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