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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

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    contact them. Even with advice out of this forum, it'll probably confuse them.
     
  2. mrjester

    mrjester Well-Known Member

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    I sent them the pictures with the little bit of advice you gave me over PM. She said she'll get back to me in a few days.
     
  3. pleco

    pleco Well-Known Member

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    I'll conceed that it was quite silly to stand there, but you can still see all the lines of the jacket, at least you can on the monitor I'm looking on, I'll get some more pictures but if anyone has any critique meanwhile I'd still welcome it.
     
  4. mrjester

    mrjester Well-Known Member

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    Good idea. Just trying to be helpful. You saw my pants pictures.. I feel bad they're that dark. You can't get the professional level of expertise from OTC if you're partially shadowed. If that was in the sun, that'd be great - the parts I can see are very well lit.

    Could still be worse. After time and time again of being told no mirror shot iPhone pics, people still post them.
     
  5. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

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    We should have the mod/op prepare a paypal link requiring $1 in order to post iphone mirror pics
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. snowboardpunk

    snowboardpunk Well-Known Member

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    I just bought a suit from a sample sale but the sleeves are too long. Their working surgeon cuffs and the tailor in portland wants 140 dollars to shorten them from the shoulder. Is there any other alternative to reduce the length by an inch or an inch and half? Im willing to lose a button as well....
     
  7. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

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    Check those sleeves. Are the cuffs finished in a way that might permit an alteration up or down half an inch? Sometimes they're sewn like that. If you're unsure, snap a picture of the inside of the sleeve cuff right below the buttonholes and send it to me and I'll confirm. Even if they're built like that, you still only have about .5". Even if you "lose a buttonhole", you still don't want the buttons right at the edge of the cuff so you can't really lose a button and maintain a nice appearance. In reality, the only way to shorten sleeves with working cuffs is indeed to take them up from the shoulder. There is such a thing as a "cut job" where the cuff of the sleeve is essentially severed off and moved up but that's probably just as expensive and the visual result isn't great on a suit.
    SO...
    Hopefully, the tailor charging you that kindof money (which actually is about normal) to do that job is actually familiar with constructing the shoulders on a suit in order to do it right. To do it right, it's really a matter of making sure no major stretching occurs when dismantling the pieces, making sure to properly press and prep them for reassembly, making sure to evenly cut the lengths unless they're an uneven match, and making sure to properly reset the ease in the sleevehead prior to mounting them back to the jacket. It's a complicated procedure, for sure.
     
  8. snowboardpunk

    snowboardpunk Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG][/IMG][/IMG]

    Here are some pictures as I'm not sure. But dang 140 is more than what I paid for the jacket.
     
  9. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

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    Tough luck...Doesn't look like they can be adjusted. Look at this picture. You can see how the sleeve hem is folded over. This allows for adjusting up or down .5" [​IMG]
     
  10. mrjester

    mrjester Well-Known Member

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    1. "Pull the back panels of the pant up" slightly. It will decrease the rise and straighten the curves at the back of the thighs.

    2. Decrease the hips by 0.25" on the front and the back.

    Luxires suggestion was pretty much what I said, too. I'll give it a try. Do you have any suggestions? It should at least look better.
     
  11. mrjester

    mrjester Well-Known Member

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    Pulled the back panel up 2cm (.8") and put .25" of the waist on each side in. It looks like I've got diapers on.

    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]
     
  12. snowboardpunk

    snowboardpunk Well-Known Member

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    ok thanks. I guess ill have to take them up at the shoulders.
     
  13. mrjester

    mrjester Well-Known Member

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    More pictures. I took the rear rise in (not up but in) a little bit.


    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]
     
  14. Stugotes

    Stugotes Well-Known Member

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    Do we post shirts here, too?
     
  15. mrjester

    mrjester Well-Known Member

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    Anything.
     
  16. mrjester

    mrjester Well-Known Member

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    Sorry to pollute the thread so much. But I pinned a little more off of the rear panel. Without messing with the fork, I think this is as good as we could get.. right OTC? I think messing with the fork is something that should be done in-person bespoke. Maybe one day I'll visit you and we can make a pair of pants to base everything off of.

    Changes worked on:

    Took the seat in (the rear seam) 1cm
    Took in the hips .5cm each (for a total of 1cm on each side)
    Raised the rear an entire 4cm
    Lengthened the inseam 2.5cm (1")
    Remove pleats.

    We should probably lengthen the rear rise 1cm to not give me a wedgie. Can we put extra fabric in so I can let it out more if needed? I doubt it but maybe.

    Left is after, obviously. Right is before.


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2013
  17. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Well-Known Member

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    Feb 19, 2013
    A non-fit question, but a tailoring question nonetheless. There is a broken thread/stitch coming from the back seam of a cotton blazer I own, would I have any issues if i just snip it?
     
  18. lukejackson

    lukejackson Well-Known Member

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    Hi guys,

    Apologies for the not so great photos. I'm in the middle of moving and most of my stuff is packed up, so clothing/camera options are limited (the pants etc don't do it any favours). What do you guys think needs to be done here? I got this quite cheaply on ebay, (60Aud, it's a pre-owned Canali in near perfect condition) so I'm not adverse to spending a fair bit on it. Thanks!

    Edit: forgot to say, the shoulders past the end of my actual shoulders by 1/2 an inch.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2013
  19. lukejackson

    lukejackson Well-Known Member

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  20. othertravel

    othertravel Well-Known Member

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    Luke, the Canali looks great. You just might want to let it out a bit along the sides; there's some pulling. Shoulders look fine imo.
     

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