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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. kulata

    kulata Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,834
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    Nov 13, 2008
    
    A lot of things wrong with the suit:

    1. The neck doesn't fit. It is way too big
    2. Pulling in the mid section
    3. Jacket is too short
    4. Lapels too skinny
    5. Quarters too closed
    6. Buttoning point too high
    7. Back needs a little cleanup
    8. Pants too long
    9. Too much fabric at the back of the pants

    Experts can point out other technical issues. These are the obvious ones to me and I am a novice.
     
  2. aussiedoggie

    aussiedoggie New Member

    Messages:
    3
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    May 25, 2013
    Thank you, kulata. That helps, and thanks to the search function, I now know what "quarters" are on a jacket . . .
     
  3. blarthyblar

    blarthyblar Member

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    5
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    May 23, 2013
    Awesome. Thanks so much for the feedback!!
     
  4. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    The "quarters" are actually just fine but the illusion of them being too closed is what's happening here. The button point is acting as a kindof fulcrum. Despite the fact that you've lost weight, you're still a very prominent barrel chested stout gentleman in the front. Don't know if this was a custom suit or not, but if it is and it is new, whoever took the measurement may not have considered the relationship between p2p and chest fit. You've also got some shoulder slope and forward hanging arms. You can see how that's creating tension across the upper back. The collar gap is created because the jacket is fighting the natural form of your body. The pressure of your chest expanding inside the garment combined with a too short front balance is causing the quarters to invert into each other thus the closed quarters.
    The pants are more fixable than the jacket. Things like lapel width, button stance, etc aren't fixable on this garment, obviously. If it was made for you recently, my recommendation is check out the remake process if there is one to see if certain of your posture/fit attributes can actually be accounted for. If they can't, see if you can get a refund because I don't think this can be fixed from being a finished garment.
    If this garment is RTW, start taking a look around at some good MTM because the only way to fix this is to probably size up or look around forever until you find a good cut...if there is one.
     
  5. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
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    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Relating to post above...
    This gentleman is a client of mine (pics posted with permision). There are major differences between his and your body, but also a lot of similarity. He's very broad with high and square shoulders also with strong erect posture. He's very barrel chested with a forward stomach. He simply need more front length than back. He needs A LOT of width in the chest which generally must correspond to a lot of width in the shoulders, as well. This was the first suit for him off of which we will create adjustments as we go along but this is what you should expect from a better MTM provider when you're dealing with a figure that is pretty difficult to fit. This suit isn't perfect. He's also wearing the trousers with a belt though they were made to wear with braces. They are not too long unless worn with a belt. See how from the front the suit makes him look generally slimmer? Obviously it's not going to make him look like a beanpole but you get the drift. This is called flattery and it is the goal.
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  6. MisterFu

    MisterFu Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    New York City
     
  7. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
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    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    HA! If you suggest no belt loops on trousers in lieu of susp buttons and side straps, people get scared....almost like you're selling them a car without tires.
     
  8. MisterFu

    MisterFu Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Mar 19, 2013
    Location:
    New York City
    I can only imagine the difficulty in convincing people to dump the loops. That said, braces with trousers that still have belt loops is one of my biggest pet peeves (unless obscured by a waistcoat). The only thing worse is droopy suit pants caused by people who should be wearing braces. [​IMG]
     
  9. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

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    Location:
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    I try not to argue with them. This mans pants actually have loops, side straps, and susp buttons....it's a bit overkill but he wanted them that way
     
  10. clee1982

    clee1982 Well-Known Member

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    New York City, NY, USA
    
    loops AND sude straps yea talking about overkill...
     
  11. gringodaddy

    gringodaddy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    797
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    Apr 21, 2013
    Location:
    new york city
    Wondering if someone can answer this. On the back of my jackets, just a few inches below the collar, I get a 6-8 inch horizontal line. I am sure this is a fit issue. Any feedback appreciated. I can post a pic when I get home potentially if an answer doesn't come immediately to mind. Thanks in advance.
     
  12. gringodaddy

    gringodaddy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    797
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    Apr 21, 2013
    Location:
    new york city
    As a visual reference to the above inquiry:

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  13. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    May 4, 2011
    
    I sometimes have that same issue with jackets. I believe it's caused by prominent shoulder blades. On my recent Kent Wang MTM suit, Kent corrected the problem by "lowering the collar" by a half cm. From what I understand, it simply eliminates some of the excess fabric causing the horizontal rippling, but doesn't change how the jacket collar sits on your neck. You have more wrinkling than I did, though, so probably would need more than 0.5 cm. Of course, I'm no tailor so I could be totally wrong on all that. :laugh: I'm sure OTCtailor will offer his opinion. That guy has been putting in serious work in this thread, and my hat is off to him. I read this thread from time to time because I find it all interesting and I've learned a lot. I usually try to refrain from proffering my own thoughts, though. ;)
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2013
  14. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
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    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Definitely want to have a tailor get a look at that in person. Sometimes lowering the collar or squaring the shoulders can fix that but those two operations aren't for fixing tightness across the upper back/shoulders. They're for squaring up the balance/shoulder line. If your head is forward, you will just lower the collar or square the shoulders but still have that problem thereby wasting your money.
     
  15. gringodaddy

    gringodaddy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    797
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    Apr 21, 2013
    Location:
    new york city
    Thanks for your response. Am I buying the wrong size jackets?
     
  16. gabrijel

    gabrijel New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Joined:
    May 29, 2013
    Location:
    Switzerland
    Hi All
    What a great forum you've got here!!Congrats..I could go the whole day through your threads.
    I've bought my first Tom Ford suit on ehaberdasher.co.uk and the suit came today.
    Usually I wear Hackett Mayfair suits and they fit me pretty good without alterations.
    Now the Tom Ford suit doesn't fit me at all and I wonder if alteration would help anything?
    I have a pretty good tailor which worked for Lanvin but I have also the possibility to return the suit so now I dont know what would be the better choice,,
    The trousers and the sleeves havent been altered yet so dont pay attention to that.
    Do you think a good tailor can get me the Tom Ford look? As for now even my cheap 1k Hackett suits are looking better
    than this one. I wouldnt mind paying 1k for the alterations if the result would be a perfect fitting/looking suit..but I fear that the result wouldnt be good and that I have wasted a lot of money.
    Usually I have aprox. 10 pounds less and I'll be back on my normal weight in a few weeks..
    I hope you can give me some advice and thanks
    in advance for your help!!
    Regards from Switzerland
    Gabriel


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  17. gambit50

    gambit50 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Apr 25, 2012
    Location:
    Hipster Doofusville
    No alterations are going to make you appear as fab in your suit as you should for whatever you paid.
    Return
     
  18. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    A little too much tightness all over. I wouldn't go buy a Tom Ford suit for the Tom Ford look if you know what I mean. Good MTM can build to Tom Ford specs...and probably much cheaper.
     
  19. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
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    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Possibly..I'd need to see from other angles.
     
  20. mrjester

    mrjester Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    Alright, back with the pants question. Ignore the shirt, it's a casual cut shirt (short) and didn't stay tucked in. What's with the giant folds behind my knees?

    These are 33's, untailored. I have a pair of 34's with the same style cut that had the rear rise taken in and they don't have the crease NEAR as bad. Can it be fixed at all? (ETA: I'm pretty sure it's because I don't have an ass. And I can't fix that.) (ETA 2: No comments on the missed belt loop..)

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    Last edited: May 29, 2013

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