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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. SloopyNoob

    SloopyNoob Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    191
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    Aug 12, 2012
    Sorry for the late reply. Here's a pic. Thanks for your input


    [​IMG]
     
  2. Redlinemac

    Redlinemac Member

    Messages:
    21
    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2012
    Location:
    Georgia, USA
    I have run across some incredible deals at Lands End for donegals and flannels.

    I have a pair of slacks in my sights but, in the matching blazer, they only have either 44L or a 48L for me to choose from. I am a perfect 46L.

    Of course, with either, I'll need some deep tailoring. With most everything I've purchased from LE (even from their tailored line) in a 46L I've had to get taken in along the body to create the correct silhouette.

    My question: Considering the 46L has to always be taken in along the body, I'm leaning toward purchasing the 44L and having my tailor adjust out vs. getting the 48L and having him to work with the excess (especially where the sleeve joins the body) that I've seen go so wrong. Do you think that is a wise choice?

    TIA
     
  3. Brianpore

    Brianpore Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,249
    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2010
    Location:
    NJ
    Really really need this Tux to work, but just not loving it after having someone take some pictures. Obviously brand new so still need a good tailor to do the sleeves and more (I see your not too far from me OTCtailor). Any help/suggestions would be great.

    It is an Isaia Gregory 36R Drop 8 so sizing down is not an option. I was worried it is also a tad on the long side (about 1/2" longer then I like my suits to measure). I folded the right hand cuff up which prob wasnt the best idea.

    THANKS!!!!



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    Last edited: Jan 19, 2013
  4. katabatic

    katabatic Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    391
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    Nov 4, 2012
    Location:
    San Francisco
    That looks like you'd be better served by a 36S, if one's available.
     
  5. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    The risk is in the shoulders, chest, and back. If you go a size down, the body may fit you well with minimal alterations, but the chest and back could be tight creating pull lines and shoulder divots. Also, the point to point on the shoulders could be a tad to narrow. The thing to do is get measurements from lands end. That is, shoulder to shoulder, pit to pit, etc and guage it off a jacket that already fits you well. Def don't wanna go a size up because the expense in tailoring with the result given is stupid. You might as well just wait until you can find it in your actual size even if it means purchasing at full price. There are always hidden costs to poor fit.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. Brianpore

    Brianpore Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,249
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    Jul 31, 2010
    Location:
    NJ
    Agreed, but never going to happen. The luck to find a high quality 36R that sorta fits (at least in the shoulders) at a discount price took over 2 years. Need to make this one work if I can even if that means chopping off a 1/2" or so from the bottom unless it will totally throw off the balance of the jacket/pockets/etc
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2013
  7. drcbc

    drcbc Member

    Messages:
    13
    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2012
    Here are 2 M2M suits made for me by Hiras Tailors freshly pressed. The top one is Black and the lower one Charcoal Grey. I think both were cut the same. The Hiras tailor is coming to our area in 2 weeks and I have an appointment with him to inspect the fit. I like how both suits fit and how they feel on me. The Black fabric is Dormeuil Amadeus, has a pleasing sheen, I am not sure about the charcoal but the cost was lower so i am thinking it is of lesser quality. My right arm is about 1/2inch longer than the left and the length of the right sleeve is exactly 1/2 inch longer so they got that right. The shirt is off the rack, 16 1/2neck 34-35in sleeve so it is not fitted and I am sure the sleeves are too long. I may get some M2M shirts at the next appointment. To me, the front view looks great except for a little tension on the upper button on both suits. The measurements were made in late November and I have gained an inch due to holiday over feeding but the inch should be gone soon so this should resolve. On the back view there appears to be excess fabric on the sleeve in the triceps area and in the back in the lats area. I'm not sure if this can be fixed or needs to be fixed. My posture may be more miltary than relaxed. The length of the jacket is also a question. In the lateral view on each suit I am cupping my hands to show the relation to my hands.The length is right at the cupping of the hands. There was a issue with the hemline stitch being quite visable on the Charcoal suit (see post #27 on Hiras Fashion Affilliate Thread for detailed pictures) and Hiras has offered to fix this at no cost. I asked for a full break on the trousers and I think they got this right. These pictures were made with a Sony DSC-RX100 mounted on a tripod aimed at the bottom of the rib cage. The pictures were formatted with Photoshop Elements 11 and lightened to show more detail. Thanks for your thoughts.
    [​IMG]
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    Last edited: Jan 20, 2013
  8. katabatic

    katabatic Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    391
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    Nov 4, 2012
    Location:
    San Francisco
    

    Ah, indeed! Well, to my eye the button stance looks a bit high for a classic DJ, so if a tailor can do a good job of shortening the jacket, I think it might actually improve the balance. YMMV, IANAT, etc...
     
  9. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
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    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    You're in luck...it's not that bad.
    Obviously, the sleeves are very long. Long enough that either a) when shortened you lose the vent or b) it costs more money to piece in fabric to extend the vent up the sleeve. You can also go to the extreme a bit and mess with the sleeve pitch. The back balance of the jacket looks long so the shoulders may just need to be squared from the top. The back/waist can be suppressed and possibly let out a bit in the seat or maybe once the balance is fixed, so will that. No diagonal wrinkles or excess drape in the chest so suppression will give you a nice result.
    And last but not least....
    shortening the jacket by up to 2" even is possible without seriously messing with the pocket/button balance. To your benefit is the higher single button stance, the jetted pockets, and no vents. Not saying you should shorten that far, but that is your range. Half inch is nothing.
     
  10. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
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    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    36 in anything but a R is not an easy find OTR...
     
  11. Gosroth

    Gosroth Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    140
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2012
    Location:
    Tokyo
    Dear tailors, I have a rather straightforward fit question that has been causing me some serious angst with loss of sleep over the last few days. I know it's silly but the time & money involved is rather significant to me.

    The story: I had DB suit A made at a local MTO shop. Was reasonably satisfied, and made suit B, with few adjustments based on the experience from A. Then the shop had a blow-out fabric sale with very significant discounts, and I had no less then 3 more DB suits made up based upon the previous suit B.

    The problem: After placing my order (and blowing most of this years clothing budget in the first week of January), I started to feel that among the tweaks I made to suit B, I had button stance lowered too much (The strange thing is that I felt perfectly happy with the lowered button stance, before before placing the order for 3 more, so it might simply be some kind post-purchase worrying on my part).

    It's too late change the order at the factory, so my questions are:

    1. How bad is the low button stance on suit B?
    2. How hard and expensive is it to have the incomming suits altered after delivery (is it possible to close up two front button holes, move all six buttons upwards, and add one internal button hole?). The suits are delivered with a spare buttons and a piece of the cloth they are made with, if that helps. Is there any other way to alter it to bring the suit upwards so to speak, make it sit 1-2 cm higher, a little more like suit A?


    Suit A:
    [​IMG]




    Suit B:

    [​IMG]



    Please don't trouble yourself with judgments apart from the button stance as the pictures are much too poor for that (and I'm not wearing the pants).
    I'd truly grateful for your assistance, as having spent significant cash on 3 suits that will might end up badly is causing me some serious angst.
    Or maybe I'm just being silly?
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2013
  12. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Suit A:
    [​IMG]




    Suit B:

    [​IMG]



    Please don't trouble yourself with judgments apart from the button stance as the pictures are much too poor for that (and I'm not wearing the pants).
    I'd truly grateful for your assistance, as having spent significant cash on 3 suits that will might end up badly is causing me some serious angst.
    Or maybe I'm just being silly?
    The difference in button stance doesn't appear to be that significant. Patching up those buttonholes and making new ones a cm higher will cost you $$$. Also, the question is whether it will affect the crossover point/roll line of the lapel. Owning a few DB's myself with varying heights of button stance, my personal suggestion is wear it without the bottom button secured thus visually increasing the height of the button stance. Overall, the proportions are not off on either. The higher stance on suit A looks modern. The slightly lowered stance on B looks classic although the position of the gorge in relation to the stance may attract the attention of a better trained eye.
    All in all, I think you can start counting sheep again
     
  13. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    15,829
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2010
    Location:
    People's Republic of San Francisco
    
    This.
     
  14. jesPak

    jesPak Active Member

    Messages:
    42
    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2012
    Location:
    New York, NY
    Hello Tailors, thank you for your help in previous posts. This is my first BB suit, had it altered twice now by the in-store tailor and looking for additional feedback. The jacket from the sides and rear view has many wrinkles. In response to my concerns posed over the wrinkling between the shoulder blades, and above the gluteal area, the tailor pressed the jacket, flipped the collar up and down while I was wearing it and indeed, many of the wrinkles did disappear, though when trying it on under normal circumstances, as is seen below, many are there. In response to feedback from previous posts, I've taken it home to get better pics and to bring to another tailor. I welcome feedback regarding fit, alterations, and also if anyone might comment whether cardelino might be a good place to have the adjustments made. I have been using LNC, but for more complex alterations of a jacket, I'm not sure if he is ok.

    Also, there is a bump along the line of the right shoulder, which I've circled in red. The tailor in the store seem to think it was 'nothing,' not sure if it is anything worth addressing.

    As an aside looking at these pics I may try for a more tightly fitting shirt, I didn't realize the degree to which this shirt billows out.

    Thank you very much.


    [​IMG]

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  15. Rankiz

    Rankiz Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    436
    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2010
    Location:
    Norway
    Okay, this is my suit after alterations. I am not 100% satisfied and ask for guidance.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The tailor did take in the waist a little too much so I look like a duck, I was therefore thinking to let out the waist a little (blue stripes). However, since I find the suit a little too big around the waist and on the front, I was thinking to take in the midseam (red stripe) by around 1 inch. Any input on this plan?
     
  16. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Post pics without the editing. Can't see that area with the paint lines. Also, take a side profile picture.
     
  17. nautikal

    nautikal Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    53
    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2010
    I just got my first shirt from Modern Tailor and would appreciate some input. I measured a custom tailored dress shirt I had gotten two years earlier and then decreased the waist, armhole, and bicep measurements to make it fit slimmer while I increased the neck size a bit.

    The main issues with the shirt are:
    1. Pulling at first button below collar. Does this mean the shoulders, chest, or both are too small?
    2. Billowing in the back. I guess this means I need to decrease the waist size, but I am concerned this will make it too tight in the front. It seems like there is just a lot more fabric in the back than the front. Can anyone with knowledge of shirt construction give some input here? Why do all my shirts fit okay in the front yet have all this extra fabric in the lower half of my back? If I specify darts, does this mean the shirt is slimmer in the back, or is the fit the same?
    3. There is extra fabric in the back where the sleeve attaches below the yoke (see back view picture). Is this the armhole measurement? Chest? Yoke?

    I also need to increase the neck a bit as well as the sleeve length, and maybe decrease the bicep a bit as well. Any other recommendations?

    My measurements (cm) were:


    Collar 37.5
    Half Chest 51
    Half Waist 44
    Half Hip 48
    Sleeve Length 58
    Half Bicep (optional) 17
    Cuffs 19
    Yoke 41
    Shoulder (optional) 14.5
    Shirt Length 73
    Armhole (optional) 24


    Posture: Straight
    Shoulder: Sloping
    Stomach: Flat
    Body: Slim


    FYI I am 5'7" and 130 pounds


    Front:
    [​IMG]

    2nd front shot which shows the pulling at the first button better. Note I am leaning to the left a bit.
    [​IMG]

    Side:
    [​IMG]

    Side Offset:
    [​IMG]

    Rear:
    [​IMG]
     
  18. biged781

    biged781 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    174
    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2013
    Like most before me I would like to thank the experts here who donate their time to help clueless people like myself. I recently began building a suit and jacket collection and would appreciate feedback on two coats I just picked up. As for fit, I like a classic look with a little bit of modern thrown in. I prefer a bit of a slim, tapered fit, but nothing to fashion forward.

    Anyway, the first is a Samuelsohn, 40R. I bought it knowing that I needed the midsection taken in a bit, but otherwise I really liked the coat.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The second is nothing fancy, a lower end, fused, Hugo Boss. I was looking for something else, but I really liked the way it looked on me and the price was great. I don't know that I would have anything changed on this simply because I wouldn't invest much into it, but I'm curious as to what I may have missed.

    [​IMG]

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  19. Gosroth

    Gosroth Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    140
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2012
    Location:
    Tokyo

    Really, really big thanks, especially for the tip on leaving the bottom button unbuttoned. Doing so, esp. while wearing the matching pants, does make the button stance look a lot better.

    The low button stance seems much more noticeable when worn with odd pants for some reason, but I could just have a DB odd jacket with higher button stance made for that purpose.

    Again, thank your for the invaluable input!
     
  20. Rankiz

    Rankiz Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    436
    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2010
    Location:
    Norway
    

    Here you go:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2013

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