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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. jesPak

    jesPak Active Member

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    Location:
    New York, NY
    Thanks Despos, I'll start with the sleeves then and take it from there. Much appreciated.
     
  2. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    The front view looks fine. The opening from collar to button looks long by todays looks but I'm not certain if it's the jacket or a distortion from the camera. From the back the shoulders look wide and the blades look full. If you have the opportunity to try on jackets from other makers you will see different lines and proportions, then you can start to discern what you like.
     
  3. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    Looking again, the back definitely has a long back balance due to your erect posture. That's what causes the bunching up of cloth on the back. Ask the tailor to adjust the front button, it doesn't line up with buttonhole, you have a low right shoulder. Jacket may be long but I am saying this from only the first picture since there isn't a full length shot.

    If you wear this casually, I wouldn't worry about over fitting it or jumping in to too much work on it, but definitely shorten the sleeves.
     
  4. silkman

    silkman Active Member

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    Oct 13, 2012
    [/QUOTE]
     
  5. terrorsquad

    terrorsquad Well-Known Member

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    Aug 11, 2011
    Location:
    South East Asia
    Hi tailors,

    Would love to get feedback on this 3 piece I'm having made.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    Look at other posts and notice where the sleeves end on their wrist. Yours are on your knuckle rather than where the wrist and hand join. If you like the shorter length it will make the suit look better. You may not be used to it but it will look better.
     
  7. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,102
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    Mar 16, 2006
    Hi tailors,

    Would love to get feedback on this 3 piece I'm having made.


    [​IMG]

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    [/q
    uote]

    Lengths and balance look good so you are off to a good start. Will see more on the next fitting.

    After this fitting the tailors remove the cloth from the canvass to make adjustments, shape the jacket, sew the darts, make the pockets then put the cloth back on the canvass and baste another fitting . Better to analyze the next fitting. So far so good.

    I'll add some of the things I would adjust from this fitting. Would shorten the jacket 1/2 to 3/4".
    Raise the collar at the center back 1/2" and add 1/2" at the neck on the back shoulder. You need more length at the top of the center back to correct the diagonal lines at the blades. Adjust for low right shoulder. Take in the waist on the back part only to add some shape. The sleeves should look better than they do from the back. Would make the lapels 1/2' wider.
     
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2012
  8. shade

    shade Member

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    Oct 22, 2010
    Location:
    New England
    Great thread. Tons of excellent information. Thanks!
     
  9. Playlife

    Playlife Member

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    Oct 10, 2012
    Any other comments about this suit?
     
  10. terrorsquad

    terrorsquad Well-Known Member

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    Greta advice Despos as always. Will post pictures of the next fitting. Thanks!
     
  11. RDiaz

    RDiaz Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Madrid
    Alright, so I did a little Photoshop experiment. This is the current silhouette of my latest MTM jacket, which I already posted here:

    [​IMG]

    With Photoshop, I made the shoulders follow what would be my actual shoulder line, more sloped, and also widened the lapels so they are more balanced with the open quarters. I asked for such wide lapels, actually, but they made them standard size for some reason. Note I even sloped the right shoulder a bit more than the left, which is actually how I'm built:

    [​IMG]

    This modification, plus higher armholes, is pretty much the silhouette I want to achieve with my MTM jackets. Obviously, lapels can't be widened on a finished garment, but is it possible to slope shoulders via alterations? I will ask for this on future attempts, but I'm wondering if I can get this jacket closer to my ideal by sloping the shoulders. My current tailor is hesitant to do it, and if it's possible I might just take it elsewhere.

    And while I'm at it, anything that could be done to clean up the back on these trousers?:

    [​IMG]



    Thank you.
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2012
  12. Thirdrail

    Thirdrail New Member

    Messages:
    4
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    Dec 12, 2012
    Hello! I just recently purchased my first "tailored" suit. It's actually from indochino. I'm very much a newbie when it comes to fit, so I was hoping you could give me some suggestions before I take it to a local tailor for any alterations it needs. Thanks!
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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  13. Chase H

    Chase H Well-Known Member

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    That last picture looks like there might be a slight bit of collar gapping, but if there is, I would think it's slight enough to be ignored. There's some very slight pulling around the middle button that will (if you're like me and don't press your jackets except when you must) worsen over time as it develops into a wrinkle. Pants must be shortened, and there's some wankery going on in the seat of the pants, but I've no clue what causes it. The back is remarkably clean (maybe a little bit extra fabric, though, at the sides above the small of the back). I would go for two vents on your next suit. You might want to adjust the sleeve pitch, but it's very slight. The pants look to me to be a touch tight in the thighs, which makes the drapey bunchiness at the feet look even worse. You're wearing your shirt sleeves (and consequently your jacket sleeves, probably) a bit long. Not really a matter of fit, but I'd say that tie looks a trifle big.

    Overall, though, for a first attempt from indochino... wow. Despos or atailor may disagree with everything I've said, but I'd say if you got those pants hemmed, you'd look better than 99.95% of men in the world.
     
  14. suits123

    suits123 Active Member

    Messages:
    28
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    Nov 30, 2012
    I just bought an off the rack suit because it was a decent fit, my preferred style and the black friday deal was really a deal. I normally go all bespoke but I have 2 made to measure suits. The suit fits very well except the taper is lacking. Can I get the diaphragm/midsection area tapered without taking fabric out of the back, or without slimming the chest/stomach/waist areas hardly at all. Thank you.
     
  15. mymil

    mymil Well-Known Member

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    Sep 6, 2011
    Location:
    Morgantown, WV
    This is me in a trial suit jacket from Kent Wang, before any adjustments (the photographer was tilted, my shoulders and arms are even; I selected the wrong size trousers, and I'm only getting an odd jacket made anyway):
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]

    Kent and I came to the following adjustments:
    Buttoning point down 1 cm
    Sleeves +.5 cm
    Collar lowered 1 cm
    Back chest (armpit to armpit) -1.5cm

    Does that seem right based on these photos? Did Kent and I miss anything?
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2012
  16. AdamWill

    AdamWill Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Mar 7, 2012
    so there's something I've been wondering - like many others I came across this thread and read virtually the whole thing, and then I took a bunch of fit pictures of my own to compare. Not sure I'm going to post any, but one thing I noticed is that at least for me, if I take 20 sets of fit pics of the same suit, I'll get 20 different results. Like some of them look like the worst thing in this thread (well maybe not the absolute worst, that double-breaster back somewhere was a bit of a horror, but hey), some of them look damn good.

    And another thing I notice is that going through the thread a lot of the critiques are 'you have a drop shoulder' and 'you have an erect posture'. Well, in some of my pictures I look like I have a gigantic drop shoulder, because I just wasn't _standing straight_. And sometimes I wind up posing - erect posture - even though I try not to.

    So I'm wondering, master tailors: are you guys able to eyeball these pictures and spot when someone's standing 'artificially', and adjust your critique for that? Or is it possible that some of the stuff in this thread might be compromised because someone is standing in a really unnatural way?

    If I stand up straight and hang my arms straight down my sides, my pictures come out terrible. Which worried me. And then I realized that naturally I have awful gorilla posture (no offence to any sartorially-inclined gorillas who have found their way here), I slouch forward and hang my arms in front of me, and if I stand like that, the pictures look way better. So I think my tailor perfectly correctly noticed I have awful posture and cut for it. Which is kinda what they're supposed to do, and whenever you go to the tailor they spend several minutes just getting happy with how you're standing. I just wondered whether that might be factor in some of the critiques here. Be v. interested to hear the answer. Anyhoo, back to lurking...

    edit: OK, since someone went to the trouble to PM and ask, here's some pictures, which kinda illustrate what I mean.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    So, notes: the shirt I'm wearing in these pictures has shrunk somewhat; the cuff length on all my other shirts is correct, they show below the jackets. No shoes in these as I was focusing on the cut of the jackets at this time (I deleted most of the other pictures). Over-exposed to show detail, though it's hard to over-expose a tux sufficiently.

    So these jackets were cut by the same tailor to the precise same pattern - but the back pictures look pretty different, to me. The tux looks like it's wider - too wide - at the blades, but after measuring and eyeballing by someone else, it isn't: I think the difference in the pictures is the result of how I'm holding my arms. In both of the pictures I'm holding my arms straighter than I really do naturally, so the sleeves don't hang perfectly, and I think it also results in the slight bunches at the armpits; if I hold my arms further to the front, the sleeves hang better and those bunches go away. I think holding my arms straighter also forces my shoulders back so I don't hunch as much as I naturally do (I know I'm already pretty hunched in the pictures - believe me, my posture's appalling). It also looks (to me anyway) like my right shoulder is lower in the grey pic, and my _left_ shoulder is lower in the tux pic. Anyway, I thought it was kinda interesting. Has anyone else tried taking multiple pictures and noticed this?
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2012
  17. suits123

    suits123 Active Member

    Messages:
    28
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    Nov 30, 2012
    .
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2012
  18. Velazkez

    Velazkez Member

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    Dec 28, 2011
    Location:
    Knoxville
    .
     
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2012
  19. a tailor

    a tailor Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    
     
  20. a tailor

    a tailor Well-Known Member

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    you have a left low shoulder and a high and heavier left hip. you might ask if they would cut a new jacket. that should also correct the collar gap on the left side. you can measure those two by reading the tutorials for instructions you might send these photos and point out the excess cloth at the shoulder blades near the armholes. there is a need for a photo of the trouser back.
     
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