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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Acekun

    Acekun Member

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    Can I get a critique on this suit, please? Just got it from Black Lapel. Sleeves seem too short and the right one is shorter than the other. Pants in the back don't look too good either. Please let me know what you would get done to this suit.

    Apologies for the picture quality -- just got the suit and couldn't take the pics until tonight when the light wasn't too good. My wife is out of town and my 6 yr old did her best so it's as good as we could do for right now. I want to take this in soon to get altered for a company party next weekend so that's why I'm putting these up now instead of waiting until the wife gets home. Thanks for your help.
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2012
  2. Acekun

    Acekun Member

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    Author deleted this post.
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2012
  3. p.henrik

    p.henrik Well-Known Member

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    Recent tweed jacket, CMT from Ah Loke, KL, Malaysia. Tweed fabric bought separately in London.

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    And some closer look at the workmanship. Feedback appreciated.

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  4. p.henrik

    p.henrik Well-Known Member

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    And a similar jacket in cashmere. Also CMT from Ah Loke. I like the fit overall. Maybe it came out just a bit too short.

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    And the workmanship.
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  5. yywwyy

    yywwyy Well-Known Member

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    Very nice, although the slight shoulder dimples on the second coat bother me.
     
  6. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    This stylistic change is better communicated to the maker with a picture. A picture of this jacket and a picture of how you would like it to be. Part of the issue is how the jacket drapes due to your posture. The front balance needs to be longer. This will help clean up the back and lift the back off your hips.
    You also have a very low right shoulder.
     
  7. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    The shoulders don't sit right. The overlap is skimpy and causes the lapels to bow out when you button the jacket. The combination of this and the shoulder make the collar gap. Would lower the front button position. Shoulder blades on the back are too large. jacket would look better longer.
    Make the trousers longer and angled down in the back.
     
  8. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    The grey jacket seems shorter than the other and the button position looks too high. What I see on the back view is it was taken in too much under the arms on the side body making it smaller across the back. Would let the the side body out a good 1/2" on each side but not the back part.
     
  9. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    yes, looks like a forward shoulder issue but this photo doesn't give much to go on. There appears a bit of a twist on the shoulder. Need to shift the front shoulder towards the shoulder, away from the neck and square it a bit. Stretch the canvass over the shoulder. Put a little more fullness on the back shoulder and hope for the best.
     
  10. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    Both jackets are very clean. Nothing to comment about the fit but if I were making these I would want a better look on the front below the button. Don't want to see so much of the shirt and top of the trouser. The shaping of the back doesn't define your waist. It looks fitted right under the armhole on the back and then an A line to the hem. Greenish jacket not as clean in this area as the brown.
    The left vent hangs differently than the right side. You have a low right so you may need more length over your left shoulder.

    Just random observations, they appear to fit well.
     
  11. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    The collar/shoulder needs more work. Don't let the center back seam out, have the side body let out under each arm from the top the armhole to the waist. Would be more effective and give you more movement.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. Thahmas

    Thahmas Member

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    Apologies, double post. Pls see below.

    T
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2012
  13. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Well-Known Member

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    Despos.

    Most of my jackets have this same issue. So it is correct to put more fullness on the back part of the shoulder? To make it a bit stiffer or what appeareance it would have?
     
  14. Thahmas

    Thahmas Member

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    Hi guys, firstly can I say how invaluable I’ve found this forum over the last couple of months – the knowledge and enthusiasm is amazing and some of you are so ridiculously well-dressed I’m not sure I’ll ever be able to emulate. As you’re about to see…

    I have two jackets I’d love to hear some thoughts on. I hope to soon have enough conviction to make these calls myself but I’m still just starting out on this sartorial ascent.

    First up is a lightweight grey m2m SC. First of all, I think I made a mistake in the cloth, it’s too light and it doesn’t flatter my build or skin tone. I’ll stick with darker shades going forwards. That said I’d like to make the best of it as it really is a beautiful material (scabal something or other). Here are the things I think I need to tweak;
    1) excess material in the upper arm (accentuated by the fact the lower arm is actually quite tight)
    2) arms are a little short, but they’re working cuffs so may not be an easy fix
    3) pulling slightly across my shoulder blades
    FYI - My RH sleeve is same length as LH, despite poor photo.


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    Would you change the above and is there anything else you would alter? I was also thinking it would look better with patch pockets. Presuming I could get the material (don’t know if I can), is this even achievable?

    Second up is my latest, a navy herringbone(ish) bespoke SB. I made what sounds like the cardinal newbie sin of going guns blazing on your first bespoke with things like rounded patch pockets. Oops. Anyway, I picked this up a few weeks ago, but it needs to go back as the patch pockets are very slightly asymmetrical. I thought I would ask your opinions on a couple of other things I’ve noticed before I do take it back;
    1) Slight dimpling in my upper arm, what causes this and is it easy to change?
    2) On my right shoulder, there is a slight ridge running across the brow (?) of it. Am I being pedantic or is this something that should get changed and is easy to change? My right shoulder is lower than left, which might be a reason?
    4) Thoughts on the breast pocket? Would it be more sensible to revert back to a normal patch pocket, if indeed it’s possible.


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    And is there anything else you would change on this? I like this tailor and will be using him again soon for flannel trousers and a couple of suits so I’d like to work quite hard on getting this first one just right.

    Thanks and apologies for the diatribe.

    T
     
  15. style37

    style37 Member

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    I realise you can't see the trousers properly but if you can critique on the top half please?

    My main concern, and the reason that I've requested help on here, is the bunching at my mid-section on the front shot. Is this not acceptable from a tailored suit?

    I'm going back today so any quick replies are very much appreciated.. thanks in advance guys.

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  16. rtalatief

    rtalatief Member

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    Oct 23, 2012
    Hey there gents,

    I would like to ask the experienced guys and tailors here regarding pants size and fit.
    Here is the thing, I have a small waist, a muscular thigh, and a big butt. ( too many squats, lol )
    And all the pants I have tried on and own have the drooping fabric on the inner thigh and outer thigh (near the knee).
    Can the experience guys or tailors here offers any suggestions on pants fit and size?
    Does anybody have any similar experience such as mine?
    Thanks.
     
  17. p.henrik

    p.henrik Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    London
    

    Thanks, appreciate it.

    On the visible shirt and trouser, how do you achieve open quarters without showing distracting shirt and trousers? I really like the X-look of open quarters and specifically showed how I wanted the cut. I guess it doesn't help that I am still reluctant to wear trousers on my natural waist. Where would you start cutting away off the quarters?
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2012
  18. RDiaz

    RDiaz Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Nov 12, 2011
    Location:
    Madrid
    Thank you Despos. Good eye spotting the twist - there's indeed some. Unfortunately, I'm out of luck - been to the tailor this morning and he says there's not enough outlet to shift the shoulders. He suggests making the shoulders a bit narrower in the front (by cutting them and then re-attaching the sleeves, rather than shifting), then let out the back seam a bit. I still have to decide if I want that done or not - do you think it would help?

    He also says he can slope the shoulders, is that possible?

    Future commissions (he says) will account for the sloped + forward shoulders, but I'm not sure I can trust that - the cut he uses for MTM just seems too off for my shape. I may give it one last chance.
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2012
  19. Chase H

    Chase H Well-Known Member

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    Nov 5, 2012
    If he knows what he wants, it's not like knowing the truth about the fit will suddenly make him say, "Oh, well. Better burn it."
     
  20. wyardley

    wyardley Member

    Messages:
    20
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    Aug 9, 2012
    Finally took some pictures of the suit after having my tailor take in the collar and the sleeve (even though I didn't do surgeons cuffs, the sleeves were done in such a way that they couldn't really be brought in much). The pants are a complete redo, with a larger leg opening, which Black Lapel was nice enough to do, even though it was kind of my fault. Maybe it's my low shoulder, but the pockets really line up strangely with this one, compared to other suits (as best I can tell, they are aligned properly on the jacket, though).

    Before:
    http://www.styleforum.net/t/265924/...-and-alteration-suggestions/1830#post_5782784

    Now:

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    Pants are still sitting a bit higher in back, which I think is just due to my somewhat slouchy posture?
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    Tried on the Kent Wang RTW trial suit in 38 / 32 as well. Will need some adjustment, but I think overall the fit is not bad. Interestingly, the shoulders and the relative pocket height looks much better on this one. Do folks think it would be a mistake to go for a soft shoulder (presumably not a good idea to go for a completely natural shoulder with my sloping and slightly uneven shoulders, but I prefer a softer look).

    I'm thinking bring in the chest and waist of the jacket a tiny bit, and a bit longer too, move down the top jacket button a couple cm, bring the pants in and up a hair, with a larger leg opening. Thoughts (they're not hemmed, so ignore the bottom of the pants)? I'm most likely going to do a dark grey / charcoal pick and pick.
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    Last edited: Nov 28, 2012

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