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The SwissArmySuit™: a sartorial strip tease

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by voxsartoria, Mar 31, 2009.

  1. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

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    I don't recall Scott posting any suits from A&S, just one jacket. The suits were from other firms. Of course, I could have missed it.

    It wasn't a photo post, just a statement that I remember in this thread on the SRBA standards, since those included cross-stitching of buttons:

    === excerpt ===

    BlackadderJanuary 30th, 2007, 07:03

    Their final standards are quite a subtle comedown from Count Lippe's initial postings. I was interested to see the reference to cross-stitch buttons: I have suits from SR tailors (one of which is a member of SRBA) that have two-eyed buttons, thereby making cross-stitches impossible.

    Bonhamesque January 30th, 2007, 08:05

    With regard to the buttons, I know one S Row firm in particular who use the two-whole buttons and they consider it one of their 'signature features' if you know what I mean? That'll have to go out the window now I suppose.

    Count Lippe January 30th, 2007, 12:50

    Concerning the two hole buttons - I think that the house that uses these is well beyond reproach and has been instrumental in putting the quality standards and specifications together.

    RSS January 30th, 2007, 13:01

    As all my Anderson & Sheppard coats have two hole buttons ... I'd say it's safe to assume that we are referring to Anderson & Sheppard.

    === end ===

    Without any disrepect intended, I'm not sure Mr. Hitchcock is necessarily the definitive source of comment on what is particularly A&S historically and what is not...for what they do now, of course, he is, and he probably has strong views generally.

    Maybe if Edwin sees this he can comment on this critical issue of holes in buttons. [​IMG]


    - B
     
  2. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    Maybe he asked for that, I don't know. Every time I see the staff, they are wearing suits with shiney four-hole buttons. When I saw them last week, Mr. H. noticed that I was missing a button on one of my sleeves. He offered to replace it then and there, but we noticed that my coat had four-hole horn buttons, and he only had two-hole buttons on hand. He specifically said that using two-hole buttons on odd jackets was an A&S signature, whereas they used four-hole only on suits.

    My first custom suit was made by Flusser in 1992, and he told me rather proudly that he trimmed his stuff the same way as A&S -- two hole horn on odd jackets, four-hole plastic or corozzo on suits. He said he used the same button supplier, even. The following year, I visited A&S for the first time, and they confirmed it.
     
  3. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

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    Maybe he asked for that, I don't know. Every time I see the staff, they are wearing suits with shiney four-hole buttons. When I saw them last week, Mr. H. noticed that I was missing a button on one of my sleeves. He offered to replace it then and there, but we noticed that my coat had four-hole horn buttons, and he only had two-hole buttons on hand. He specifically said that using two-hole buttons on odd jackets was an A&S signature, whereas they used four-hole only on suits.

    Hmmm...I know that plastic buttons were standard on A&S suits. Maybe since they stocked four hole plastic buttons for suits and two hole horn buttons for odd jackets, when a customer asked for horn buttons on their suits, they would just get the two hole horn buttons which were on hand.

    In other words, for horn, two holes on suits or odd jackets.


    - B
     
  4. TRINI

    TRINI Well-Known Member

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    Hmmm...I know that plastic buttons were standard on A&S suits.

    I'd feel cheated if I spent 2000 pounds + on a suit and got plastic buttons.
     
  5. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

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    I'd feel cheated if I spent 2000 pounds + on a suit and got plastic buttons.

    Perhaps, but the usage of plastic buttons dates back to a time when if you wanted Teh Drape, there was only one game in town. You did as you were told.

    You would wear your small humiliations like plastic buttons as a badge of belonging.

    Another thing to consider is that there was a time when modern materials were considered anti-plebian, urbe versus rus.


    - B
     
  6. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    I'd feel cheated if I spent 2000 pounds + on a suit and got plastic buttons.

    I am on the fence about it. Part of me feels as you do, but I sometimes think that horn looks out of place with certain polished city cloth. Corozzo is nicer than plastic, but for some suits I would rather have plastic than horn.
     
  7. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Well-Known Member

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    I am on the fence about it. Part of me feels as you do, but I sometimes think that horn looks out of place with certain polished city cloth. Corozzo is nicer than plastic, but for some suits I would rather have plastic than horn.

    Agreed.
     
  8. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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    ^^^ Actually, A&S uses two-hole buttons on odd jackets, four-hole buttons on suits. That used to be more common on SR as a whole.

    A&S also tends to use the shiny plastic (or corozzo) buttons on suits, and matte horne on jackets. The rest of the row tends to use horn on everything.

    That said, my two suits from Edwin have two-hole horn buttons.


    The A&S system, including the corozzo buttons, makes sense to me. Davies used two whole horn buttons for my suit as a default.
     
  9. J. Cogburn

    J. Cogburn Well-Known Member

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    Vox, now that you've had the suit for a while, a question: is the heavy fresco so wrinkle-free that you're able to take this on the road for 3-5 days without any other suit in tow?

    And while I'm at it, another question; how is it in the summer? Too hot? I know you're in New England where "hot" isn't quite what it is here in DC, but if you travel, you might well have put it to a toastier summer test.
     
  10. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

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    Vox, now that you've had the suit for a while, a question: is the heavy fresco so wrinkle-free that you're able to take this on the road for 3-5 days without any other suit in tow?

    It is not so much that it is wrinkle free as much as effects of being packed for travel hang out very quickly, meaning that I can skip having it pressed on arrival. I've used it as a sole suit/jacket on a three day trip.

    And while I'm at it, another question; how is it in the summer? Too hot? I know you're in New England where "hot" isn't quite what it is here in DC, but if you travel, you might well have put it to a toastier summer test.

    Unless there is a good breeze, it is not the best jacket for walking out and about at the height of summer. I did wear it on May trip to DC during a patch of warm weather, and it worked great.

    - B
     
  11. jack220

    jack220 Active Member

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    How are the front buttons (the larger ones in the pics) attached to the back buttons? I'm thinking of doing this, but have no idea how it is constructed... Close-up pics would be appreciated.
     

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