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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. furo

    furo Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,187
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2009
    Who makes the Black Fleece suits, and how does the workmanship compare?

    Right now they're made by Southwick, hence the drop to $1600 (I don't have any experience w/ the new stuff nor quality)

    But the older stuff is all from Italy by mainly Caruso, and the handwork is everywhere. Full canvas, pick stitching, etc ... and the fabric is better than Golden Fleece from what I've seen.
     
  2. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,069
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2007
    I can't believe we forgot to rank Tom Ford. The list is dead to me now.

    +1

    [​IMG]
     
  3. East Oakland

    East Oakland Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    232
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2009
    Location:
    Oakland, CA
    OK, as much as I think this list is generally a bad idea and is devolving into a joke, it seems it is not going to die and some people are going to rely on it for making future purchasing decisions, so I'll add my two cents.

    The major RTW brands here that I have experience with are Isaia, RLBL, Paul Smith Mainline, Paul Smith London, PS Paul Smith, Brooks Brothers 1818, Z-Zegna and Theory. Currently all of these which are listed but Isaia are lumped into the same category, which I don't think is right. The RLBL and Paul Smith Mainline are much nicer than the others. Both are fully canvassed and, on at least the ones I own, the fabric is quite nice. Attention to detail on Paul Smith Mainline and Paul Smith London is very good, particularly in terms of things like plaids and stripes lining up perfectly.

    Brooks Brothers 1818 and Z-Zegna are OK, but nothing particularly special--both half canvassed.

    The Theory is actually a good beater suit for me. Sad to say, but I get more compliments on it than any other suit I own. It is fused and has tacky machine pick stitching, though. I'd say probably comparable to Hugo Boss.

    I don't have much experience with any of the Isaia peers, so I'll just leave that alone.

    Accordingly I propose the following changes:

    Nonpareil [*****1/2] (i.e. Unmatched so don't add anyone else)
    - Savile Row's Paul Jheeta

    Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. This category should be kept to only a few items)
    - Kiton
    - Oxxford
    - Brioni
    - Cesare Attolini Napoli
    - Borrelli
    - RLPL

    Very Good [****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category).

    - Luciano Barbera
    - Sartoria Partenopea
    - Sartoria Attolini Napoli
    - Isaia
    - Caruso Sartoria Parma
    - Pal Zileri Sartoriale
    - Ravazzolo
    - Zegna Couture
    - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece

    Good [***] (i.e. Quality is superior to most suits).

    - Hickey Freeman Mainline
    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
    - Ermenegildo Zegna
    - Samuelsohn
    - Paul Smith Mainline (fully canvassed)
    - RLBL (fully canvassed)

    Satisfactory [**] (i.e. The "Average" Brands. Quality is acceptable).
    - Cantarelli
    - Boglioli (might not be not in terms of construction, but def for cut and fabric)
    - Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
    - Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
    - H. Freemann
    - Hickey Freeman LTD (Half Canvas)
    - Z-Zegna (sometimes satisfactory sometimes mediocre)

    Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre).
    -PS Paul Smith (fused)
    - Theory (fused)
    - Hugo Boss
    - Banana Republic Monogram
    - Lauren Ralph Lauren

    So-so [7/8 *] (i.e. sometimes mediocre, sometimes bad)
    - Land's End
    - Hart Schaffner Marx
    - Sean John

    Below par [6/8 *] (i.e. noticeably lacking in quality, only for doormen)
    - Chaps Ralph Lauren
    - Haggar Imperial
    - Jos A Bank Signature Gold

    Displeasing [5/8 *] (i.e. downright offensive to the senses)
    - Baroni
    - Jos A Bank Signature
    - John Bartlett
    - Haggar Black Label

    For poor people [4/8 *] (i.e. Don't buy unless money is definitely an object)
    - Haggar
    - Oscar de la Renta
    - Nautica
    - Jos A Bank Executive
    - Evan Picone

    Bad [3/8 *] (i.e. Don't buy unless you're on welfare and need to appear in court. May be able to return for refund if you don't remove the sleeve tag)

    - Tommy Hilfiger
    - Mantoni (sorry Manton)
    - Jos A Bank Stays Cool (sometimes 4/8 * if you need help staying cool )
    - Cricketeer

    Really Bad [2/8 *] (i.e. more bad than Bad but not as bad as Badder than Really Bad)
    - Austin Reed
    - Polo University Club (if you cut off half the label that says University Club, upgrade to 3/8 *)
    - Rocco Siffredi
    - Mario Rossi
    - British Manor

    Badder [1/8 *] (just don't buy it OK?)
    - Today's Man
    - K&G
    - Structure (if you have a time machine to go back to 1992, bump to 3/8 *)
    - Alfani

    Baddest [ ] (i.e. Don't buy. Quality is overall bad, or quality is nowhere near the price asked for).
    - H&M
    - Banana Republic
    - Calvin Klein
    - Tasso Elba
     
  4. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    25,756
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    Jan 18, 2007
    Why is Rocco Siffredi ranked so low given all the handwork involved?

    - B
     
  5. BUSP

    BUSP Active Member

    Messages:
    40
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2009
    Location:
    Chicago
    Where does Joseph Abboud fall in this list?
     
  6. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    16,118
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    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    Haggar's looking better and better, isn't it?
     
  7. dfischer1

    dfischer1 Active Member

    Messages:
    38
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2009
  8. Bounder

    Bounder Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,247
    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2009
    What happened to New Jersey Turnpike's Steve Harvey?
     
  9. Bounder

    Bounder Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,247
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    Mar 14, 2009
    Admission: With the exception of Pong ... I have never -- not once -- played a video game. This is totally over my head.

    But if you were going to play a video game, "Zombie Attack!: Savile Row" is exactly the kind of video game you would play, right?
     
  10. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff Well-Known Member

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    Irvine
    i would place john varvatos mainline made in italy suits right where rlbl stands.
     
  11. Cognacad

    Cognacad Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    524
    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2009
    Hey what happened to Canali?
     
  12. bigbris1

    bigbris1 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,345
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    Feb 3, 2007
    Location:
    Opulence
    This thread officially SUCKS!
     
  13. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    22,225
    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2006
    Location:
    Irvine
    1 armani
    2 prada
    3 hugo boss
    4 alfani
     
  14. comrade

    comrade Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,874
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    May 10, 2005
    Location:
    Menlo Park, CA
    Why is Rocco Siffredi ranked so low given all the handwork involved?

    - B


    Isn't he the Italian Ron Jeremy?
     
  15. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    16,118
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    1 armani
    2 prada
    3 hugo boss
    4 alfani


    Funny, this is the exact composition of my closet.
     
  16. Christofuh

    Christofuh Well-Known Member

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    Sarcasmograd
  17. comrade

    comrade Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    May 10, 2005
    Location:
    Menlo Park, CA
    And Battistoni?
    I own one jacket and it is so well-made
    that I would swear it is MilSpec.
    Looks really good too.
     
  18. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff Well-Known Member

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    Irvine
    Funny, this is the exact composition of my closet.

    I can't imagine Doc Holliday wearing hugo boss
     
  19. Christofuh

    Christofuh Well-Known Member

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    Isn't Rocco Siffredi someone else?


    He's got quite a long....resume as an artisan.
    BTW, how come we get Rosie O'Donnell while the damn Italians get Lucilla ?!
     
  20. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    I can't imagine Doc Holliday wearing hugo boss

    Too upscale?
     

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