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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. RSS

    RSS Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    Richard Anderson's diagonal pinstripe yes ... but no matter what the rumors imply ... I did NOT order this.
     
  2. comrade

    comrade Well-Known Member

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    Why are RLPL, Oxxford, and Kiton all ranked level with Despos, but ahead of Brioni? If people were only allowed to rank things they've actually worn, this list would be a completely different animal.

    My (alterations) tailor, who also does work for Wilkes Bashford,
    and has numerous clients who wear very high-end clothing,
    has volunteered that he thinks Brioni is better made than Kiton.
    I wouldn't know. I don't wear either.

    When I lived in Chicago some 20 years ago my tailor, who had a
    similar clientele"” one saw Savile Row garments in for alterations,
    complained that Oxxford clothing was "delicate"; the hand stitching
    regularly came apart.
     
  3. DrZRM

    DrZRM Well-Known Member

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    The list:
    Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. If money is a factor then these suits could sell for much, much more. This category should be kept to only a few items)
    - Kiton
    - Oxxford
    - Brioni
    - Cesare Attolini Napoli
    - Borrelli
    - RLPL

    Very Good [****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category or prices could be raised significantly and would still be good value).

    - Luciano Barbera
    - Sartoria Partenopea
    - Sartoria Attolini Napoli
    - Isaia
    - Caruso Sartoria Parma
    - Pal Zileri Sartoriale
    - Ravazzolo
    - Zegna Couture
    - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece

    Good [***] (i.e. Quality is superior to most suits or the value of these suits is above average).
    - Caruso
    - Canali
    - Corneliani
    - Hickey Freeman Mainline
    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
    - Ermenegildo Zegna
    - Samuelsohn


    Satisfactory [**] (i.e. The "Average" Brands. Quality is acceptable, and the price matches it).
    - Cantarelli
    - Boglioli (might not be not in terms of construction, but def for cut and fabric)
    - Brooks Brothers 1818
    - Paul Smith
    - H. Freemann
    - Hickey Freeman LTD (Half Canvas)
    - RLBL
    - Z-Zegna (sometimes satisfactory sometimes mediocre)

    Mediocre[*] (i.e. Suits that should usually be avoided. Quality leaves much to be desired or prices are usually higher than they should be for such a suit).
    - Hugo Boss
    - Banana Republic Monogram
    - Lauren Ralph Lauren-



    Bad [ ](i.e. Don't buy. Quality is overall bad, or quality is nowhere near the price asked for).
    - H&M
    - Banana Republic
    - Calvin Klein
    - Tasso Elba
    - Nautica

    Added Luciano Barbera and bumped up BBBF.
     
  4. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Well-Known Member

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    So Black Label is down with H. Freemann now? Ouch. How the mighty have fallen.

    Lauren Ralph Lauren's within striking distance!
     
  5. RJman

    RJman Well-Known Member

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    Where are the following?

    Bachrach
    Armani
    Mani
    Chester Barrie
    Chester by Chester Barrie
    Marks & Spencer
    George at ASDA
    Vestimenta
    Henry Grethel
    Harve Benard
    Don Loper
    Hart Schaffner & Marx
    Rocco Siffredi
    Martin Greenfield
    DKNY
    K&G
    Today's Man
    d'Avenza
    Belvest
    La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
    Redaelli
    John Blair Collection
    Hackett
    Tommy Hilfiger
    Baroni
    Mantoni
    Sartoria Venezia
    Lubiam
    Tombolini
    Trussardi
    Alfani
    Structure
    Daniel Hechter
    de Fursac
    Regent
    Southwick
    Marco Valentino
    Valentino
    Nicole Miller
     
  6. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    Why is Black Fleece now above Golden Fleece? Can that be right?
     
  7. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Well-Known Member

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    Of course it can. Let the list go where it will. I'm looking foward to the final outcome.
     
  8. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    Baroni

    It is much better than Brioni, but much worse than Samuelsohn.
     
  9. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    Also: Trands! It's wrinkle-free!
     
  10. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Well-Known Member

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    It is much better than Brioni, but much worse than Samuelsohn.
    And Samelsohn, in turn, is still a step above its recent rival, Samuelsan. But barely, and the list may need updating at a moment's notice.
     
  11. RJman

    RJman Well-Known Member

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    It is much better than Brioni, but much worse than Samuelsohn.

    Where are Boss Hugo Boss and Hugo Hugo Boss?

    Where is Pierre Cardin, the richest designer in the world?

    What about Donald J Trump Collection?
    Sean John?

    What about Christian Dior Monsieur? Monsieur Sport? Le Connaisseur?

    Where is J Press? How about Jos. A Bank Executive? Signature?
     
  12. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Well-Known Member

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    Cardin is still at the top of the heap in terms of wingspan. But that's a separate list.

    Still no Botany 500, much less Botany 500 tailored by Daroff.
     
  13. RJman

    RJman Well-Known Member

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    And Samelsohn, in turn, is still a step above its recent rival, Samuelsan. But barely, and the list may need updating at a moment's notice.
    Is that like Daniel-san?

    Saw a wicked Halston velvet blazer at Ross nearly 20 years ago. $100. Was too rich for my blood.

    Is Perry Ellis there?

    How about Boggi? Massino Dutti? Mario Dessuti? Evan-Picone?
     
  14. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    And Samelsohn, in turn, is still a step above its recent rival, Samuelsan. But barely, and the list may need updating at a moment's notice.

    Leave it to the Japanese to improve on a Canadian product.

    Where are Boss Hugo Boss and Hugo Hugo Boss?

    Where is Pierre Cardin, the richest designer in the world?

    What about Donald J Trump Collection?
    Sean John?


    I rank Boss Hugo Boss a level below Hugo Hugo Boss, but both are on par with Hugo Boss Hugo Boss.

    I don't have enough AndyPoints to tell you about Donald J. Trump Collection or Pierre Cardin. They've begun filtering my reading as well as my posting.

    Sean John is as good as Corvato, which is two levels below Despos. But, if you throw in Vox's Despos discount, it's a different story.
     
  15. binge

    binge Well-Known Member

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    You would like Grand Theft Auto: Vice City. You get to jack cars, shoot the po-lice, pick up hookers, then murder them to get your money back.
    That was a great way to spend 2003...good times.
    Where are the following? Bachrach Meshach Abednego Armani Mani Chester Barrie Chester by Chester Barrie Marks & Spencer George at ASDA Vestimenta Henry Grethel Harve Benard Don Loper Hart Schaffner & Marx Rocco Siffredi Martin Greenfield DKNY K&G Today's Man d'Avenza Belvest La Vera Sartoria Napoletana Redaelli John Blair Collection Hackett Tommy Hilfiger Baroni Mantoni Sartoria Venezia Lubiam Tombolini Trussardi Alfani Structure Daniel Hechter de Fursac Regent Southwick Marco Valentino Valentino Nicole Miller
     
  16. RJman

    RJman Well-Known Member

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    What about Rubinacci RTW?
     
  17. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Well-Known Member

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    If you buy a suit online and they include one of those matching shirt/tie/hanky box sets, does that affect the ranking? 'Cause I'm thinking it could push Lauren Ralph Lauren to its rightful spot above Black Label.
     
  18. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    I think we need a Jos. A. Bank dedicated sub-list.

    There's Executive, Signature, Traveler, Signature Gold, Trio, Joseph, and Stays Cool. That's a lot to grapple with. My initial vote is for Stays Cool.
     
  19. RJman

    RJman Well-Known Member

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    ooh, what about the Levi's Action Suit? You could wash it and wear it, and it had a little "Levi's" embroidered on the sleeve cuff.
    I think we need a Jos. A. Bank dedicated sub-list.

    There's Executive, Signature, Traveler, Signature Gold, Trio, Joseph, and Stays Cool. That's a lot to grapple with.

    I see you have given this matter some thought.
    Is that for periodic female travelers?
     
  20. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Well-Known Member

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    I think we need a Jos. A. Bank dedicated sub-list.

    There's Executive, Signature, Traveler, Signature Gold, Trio, Joseph, and Stays Cool. That's a lot to grapple with. My initial vote is for Stays Cool.


    Stay Cool sounds awesome, and I'm pretty sure that's one of the criteria for the list.
     

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