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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. JMNielsen

    JMNielsen New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2013
    I'm curious about two things. Firstly, where would Lee Baron's executive suits slot in? Secondly, what about Armani's Metropolitan line? Considering the popularity of the latter, does it really only come in fused models with synthetic fibres in the weave?
     
  2. Mr Engineer

    Mr Engineer Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,011
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2012
    Location:
    Rhode Island
    Where should Epaulet be on the list?
     
  3. TM79

    TM79 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,806
    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2010
    Location:
    Boston
    

    After reading through the thread and seeing who was assigned a *** rating I'd have to say that Southwick half-canvassed made for Epaulet is a **

    I like them, but they're priced about exactly where they belong and rather tough to find at a discount.
     
  4. heterophilous

    heterophilous Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    91
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2012
    Can anyone comment on the OTR line from Martin Greenfield that gets distributed through Gilt? You can find them for as low $500-600 at clearance. And they're full-canvas too, no?
     
  5. Mr Engineer

    Mr Engineer Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,011
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2012
    Location:
    Rhode Island
    I'm surprised Indochino is not listed somewhere
     
  6. doctorman

    doctorman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    334
    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2012
    Location:
    redondo beach, california
    i think it's due to the fact that this thread is designed to rank RTW suits .
     
  7. heterophilous

    heterophilous Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    91
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2012
    So i did a bit more research on the RTW Martin Greenfield and came across this review from Michael William a few years back at "A Continuous Lean" :

    http://www.acontinuouslean.com/2010/07/14/made-in-brooklyn-martin-greenfield-for-gilt/

    In his words (not mine) :

    • All suits feature full canvas construction.
    • The jacket sleeves have attached buttons, but also are made so that they can be lengthened and have working buttons added once proper fit.
    • The collection is comprised of six different super 120s wool suits, two summer cotton options and a peak lapel tuxedo.
    • Everything but the tux are of the 2-button notch lapel and side vent variety (I like to call side vents “dual exhaust”).
    • The jackets have a passport pocket, pen pocket, cell phone pocket and your normal breast pocket.
    • The entire collection is made in Brooklyn, USA.

    In terms of my suiting experience, I've bought stuff from Isaia, M. Greenfield, Brooks Brothers GF, Suitsupply, and Hugo Boss. It'd definitely be a stretch to suggest that the Greenfield line from Gilt was as good as Isaia from the standpoint of materials and workmanship. But it's definitely a step above the "satisfactory" half-canvassed sportcoat I have from Suitsupply, or the "mediocre" fused suit I have from Hugo Boss.
     
  8. heterophilous

    heterophilous Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    91
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2012
    Excellent [*****]
    - Oxxford (Highest Quality)
    - Brioni
    - Cesare Attolini Napoli
    - Kiton
    - Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
    - Luigi Borrelli
    - Sartoria Castangia
    - St Andrew
    - La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
    - Zegna Couture/Tom Ford

    Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

    - D'Avenza
    - Isaia
    - Sartoria Partenopea
    - Oxxford (1220)
    - Belvest mainline
    - Borrelli Luxury Vintage
    - Canali Milano
    - Corneliani Linea Sartoria
    - Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
    - Ravazzolo
    - Sartoria Attolini Napoli
    - Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
    - RLPL
    - Sartorio
    - Stile Latino



    Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

    - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
    - Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
    - Canali mainline
    - Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
    - Cantarelli mainline
    - Corneliani
    - Dunhill
    - Ermenegildo Zegna
    - Faconnable Tailleur
    - Hickey Freeman Mainline
    - Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
    - Martin Greenfield RTW for Gilt (fully canvassed)
    - Pal Zileri mainline
    - Paul Smith Mainline (fully canvassed)
    - Paul Stuart
    - Raffaelle Caruso mainline
    - RLBL
    - Samuelsohn
    - J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)


    Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

    - Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
    - Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
    - Cantarelli Tailor
    - Charles Tyrwhitt
    - CC Cornelaini (half canvassed)
    - Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
    - Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
    - Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
    - H. Freemann
    - Hackett (half canvassed)
    - Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
    - Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
    - J Crew Ludlow (half canvassed)
    -J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)
    - Lardini (half canvassed)
    - Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
    - Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
    - Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)
    - Suit Supply (half canvassed)
    - Valentino (half canvassed)
    - L.B.M. 1911
    - Piombo



    Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)

    - J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)
    - Hugo Boss (fused)
    - hickey (now fused and made in China)
    - Joseph Abboud
    - Zara
    - H&M
    - Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)
    - Z Zegna
    - Tonello
     
  9. staxringold

    staxringold Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    665
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2012
    Location:
    Connecticut
    People aren't being careful, just noticed my Coppley addition had disappeared.

    Excellent [*****]
    - Oxxford (Highest Quality)
    - Brioni
    - Cesare Attolini Napoli
    - Kiton
    - Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
    - Luigi Borrelli
    - Sartoria Castangia
    - St Andrew
    - La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
    - Zegna Couture/Tom Ford

    Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

    - D'Avenza
    - Isaia
    - Sartoria Partenopea
    - Oxxford (1220)
    - Belvest mainline
    - Borrelli Luxury Vintage
    - Canali Milano
    - Corneliani Linea Sartoria
    - Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
    - Ravazzolo
    - Sartoria Attolini Napoli
    - Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
    - RLPL
    - Sartorio
    - Stile Latino



    Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

    - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
    - Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
    - Canali mainline
    - Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
    - Cantarelli mainline
    - Corneliani
    - Dunhill
    - Ermenegildo Zegna
    - Faconnable Tailleur
    - Hickey Freeman Mainline
    - Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
    - Martin Greenfield RTW for Gilt (fully canvassed)
    - Pal Zileri mainline
    - Paul Smith Mainline (fully canvassed)
    - Paul Stuart
    - Raffaelle Caruso mainline
    - RLBL
    - Samuelsohn
    - J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)


    Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

    - Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
    - Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
    - Cantarelli Tailor
    - Charles Tyrwhitt
    - CC Cornelaini (half canvassed)
    - Coppley (half canvassed)
    - Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
    - Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
    - Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
    - H. Freemann
    - Hackett (half canvassed)
    - Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
    - Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
    - J Crew Ludlow (half canvassed)
    -J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)
    - Lardini (half canvassed)
    - Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
    - Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
    - Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)
    - Suit Supply (half canvassed)
    - Valentino (half canvassed)
    - L.B.M. 1911
    - Piombo



    Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)

    - J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)
    - Hugo Boss (fused)
    - hickey (now fused and made in China)
    - Joseph Abboud
    - Zara
    - H&M
    - Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)
    - Z Zegna
    - Tonello
     
  10. stevent

    stevent Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    9,554
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2010
    Fwiw everything Martin Greenfield I've seen is made to the same standard (pretty solid) and the different lies in fabrics. Band of Outsiders has Martin greenfield and also pier SA made suiting and the Martin Greenfield drapes much better IMO. Gilt suit I handled held the same as BoO
     
  11. heterophilous

    heterophilous Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    91
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2012
    sorry i goofed on that. my bad. there are some other additions and modifications i missed. so i'll repost with those too as well . . .
     
  12. heterophilous

    heterophilous Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    91
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2012
    Excellent [*****]
    - Oxxford (Highest Quality)
    - Brioni
    - Cesare Attolini Napoli
    - Kiton
    - Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
    - Luigi Borrelli
    - Sartoria Castangia
    - St Andrew
    - La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
    - Zegna Couture/Tom Ford

    Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

    - Battistoni
    - D'Avenza
    - Isaia
    - Sartoria Partenopea
    - Oxxford (1220)
    - Belvest mainline
    - Borrelli Luxury Vintage
    - Canali Milano
    - Corneliani Linea Sartoria
    - Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
    - Ravazzolo
    - Sartoria Attolini Napoli
    - Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
    - RLPL
    - Sartorio
    - Stile Latino



    Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

    - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
    - Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
    - Canali mainline
    - Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
    - Cantarelli mainline
    - Corneliani mainline
    - Dunhill
    - Ermenegildo Zegna
    - Faconnable Tailleur
    - Martin Greenfield for Gilt, BoO, FSC, & O&S (fully canvassed)
    - Hickey Freeman Mainline
    - Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
    - Pal Zileri mainline
    - Paul Smith mainline (fully canvassed)
    - Paul Stuart
    - Raffaelle Caruso mainline
    - RLBL
    - Samuelsohn
    - J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)


    Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)


    - Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
    - Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
    - Burberry Prorsum
    - Cantarelli Tailor
    - Charles Tyrwhitt
    - CC Corneliani (half canvassed)
    - Coppley (half canvassed)
    - Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
    - Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
    - Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
    - Gucci
    - H. Freemann
    - Hackett (half canvassed)
    - Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
    - Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
    - J Crew Ludlow (half canvassed)
    - J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)
    - Lardini (half canvassed)
    - L.B.M. 1911
    - Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
    - Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
    - Piombo
    - Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)
    - Suit Supply (half canvassed)
    - Valentino (half canvassed)
    - Prada (half canvassed)


    Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)

    - Armani Exchange
    - Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)
    - Dolce & Gabbana
    - J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)
    - H&M
    - Hickey (now fused and made in China)
    - Hugo Boss (fused)
    - Joseph Abboud
    - Pal Zileri Lab
    - Tonello
    - Versace Collection
    - Z Zegna
    - Zara
    - Armani Collezioni (fused)
    - Corneliani Trend (fused)
     
  13. briancpotter

    briancpotter Active Member

    Messages:
    43
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2013
    Location:
    Savannah
    This thread has been an amazing resource, thanks to all.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. coloRLOw

    coloRLOw Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    989
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2012
    Location:
    CMT8
    can anyone comment on the quality of ernesto?
    they make pricey jacket (at the caruso level), unstructured(?),single vent, patch pockets

    [​IMG]
     
  15. XFactor

    XFactor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    180
    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2012
    Wow! I would love to buy you lunch or dinner sometime if I am in the same city :)
     
  16. MZhammer

    MZhammer Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,057
    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2011
    Location:
    Seattle
    Thougths? Caraceni make for LBCS and I can't tell any major quality difference between my older Attolini models so I'd put them at the top.
    Should RLPL be moved up as they're made to a high standard by Santandrea?

    Excellent [*****]
    - Oxxford (Highest Quality)
    - Brioni
    - Cesare Attolini Napoli
    - Caraceni
    - Kiton
    - Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
    - Luigi Borrelli
    - Sartoria Castangia
    - St Andrew / Santandrea
    - La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
    - Zegna Couture/Tom Ford

    Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

    - Battistoni
    - D'Avenza
    - Isaia
    - Sartoria Partenopea
    - Oxxford (1220)
    - Belvest mainline
    - Borrelli Luxury Vintage
    - Canali Milano
    - Corneliani Linea Sartoria
    - Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
    - Ravazzolo
    - Sartoria Attolini Napoli
    - Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
    - RLPL
    - Sartorio
    - Stile Latino



    Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

    - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
    - Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
    - Canali mainline
    - Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
    - Cantarelli mainline
    - Corneliani mainline
    - Dunhill
    - Ermenegildo Zegna
    - Faconnable Tailleur
    - Martin Greenfield for Gilt, BoO, FSC, & O&S (fully canvassed)
    - Hickey Freeman Mainline
    - Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
    - Pal Zileri mainline
    - Paul Smith mainline (fully canvassed)
    - Paul Stuart
    - Raffaelle Caruso mainline
    - RLBL
    - Samuelsohn
    - J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)


    Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)


    - Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
    - Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
    - Burberry Prorsum
    - Cantarelli Tailor
    - Charles Tyrwhitt
    - CC Corneliani (half canvassed)
    - Coppley (half canvassed)
    - Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
    - Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
    - Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
    - Gucci
    - H. Freemann
    - Hackett (half canvassed)
    - Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
    - Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
    - J Crew Ludlow (half canvassed)
    - J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)
    - Lardini (half canvassed)
    - L.B.M. 1911
    - Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
    - Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
    - Piombo
    - Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)
    - Suit Supply (half canvassed)
    - Valentino (half canvassed)
    - Prada (half canvassed)


    Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)

    - Armani Exchange
    - Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)
    - Dolce & Gabbana
    - J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)
    - H&M
    - Hickey (now fused and made in China)
    - Hugo Boss (fused)
    - Joseph Abboud
    - Pal Zileri Lab
    - Tonello
    - Versace Collection
    - Z Zegna
    - Zara
    - Armani Collezioni (fused)
    - Corneliani Trend (fused)
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2013
  17. XFactor

    XFactor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    180
    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2012
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2013
  18. nickrut

    nickrut Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,144
    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2013
    Are there any suits in the "good" category that will be noticeably more affordable than the others? Trying to find the best bang for the buck from those who have experience.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. doctorman

    doctorman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    334
    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2012
    Location:
    redondo beach, california
    for me, the black fleece can be routinely had at around $600. sometimes even at $500 (plus tax and tailoring), even lower if you are a larger size and take advantage of their FF sale. i favor black fleece because it fits me nearly perfectly. many of their suits are half canvassed.

    paul stuart is my other favourite and i think they can be had around $650-700 (plus tax and tailoring) at least twice a year (4th of july and christmas). i believe all of them are fully canvassed.

    it appears to many that RLBL are frequently around $700 (even lower according to some), but it hasn't been my experience, maybe because they never have my size on sale. the opportunity presents itself to me probably once a year at most.

    canali is everywhere. they are frequently under $1000 during saks sales, but i don't have much experience with it.
     
  20. XFactor

    XFactor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    180
    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2012
     

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