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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. othertravel

    othertravel Well-Known Member

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    Feb 9, 2011
    In fairness to Armani, he is a very effective business man. He set the the trend for 10+ years when it comes to suiting. And when you're investing so much money in marketing, the mark up on clothes will be substantial.

    I tried on a fully canvassed Armani BL a few days ago and it did have a unique look. The model is called 'Trader' (i.e. as in stock trader/works on wall street). It had very square shoulders and a high buttoning point. It was fully canvassed with nice materials. I just wouldn't pay $5k for it when Zegna Couture or TF is at that price (and Isaia for $3k). And frankly, I don't know how much hand work goes into the canvssed model as compared to Kiton, Zegna Couture, TF, Zegna mainline, etc...).
     
  2. chocsosa

    chocsosa Well-Known Member

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    Same here. I tried on an Armani Black Label suit in Vegas I think at bloomingdales.. fully canvassed, with higher armholes and a lower button stance. Beautiful drape and beautiful fabric. It was worth about 4k.. but I agree other..for a grand extra I can purchase TF with better construction or hand work.
     
  3. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Well-Known Member

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    A grand extra? Their 3 piece suits with the batwing lapels start at 4200, and their notch lapel 2 piece ones are 3k-ish (3200-3700) last time i checked. Then again it all comes down to what fabric is being used
     
  4. dirnelli

    dirnelli Well-Known Member

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    dirnelli.tumblr.com (Paris, France)
    Gents,

    I own about 200 suits & jackets -- I seem to have made it my life's goal to buy at least one suit or jacket from every brand worth trying, at every price point, ranging from cheap fused OTR to the most expensive bespoke suits.

    I can't be bothered to rank with stars all the brands I've tested, so I'll just invite thread followers to glance at the in-depth reviews I've written up here -- the only comprehensive one-post review of its kind by a single owner I've seen so far:

    http://dirnelli.tumblr.com/search/review
     
    8 people like this.
  5. Jamesgatz

    Jamesgatz Well-Known Member

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    Dirnelli: that was a great read.
     
  6. dirnelli

    dirnelli Well-Known Member

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    dirnelli.tumblr.com (Paris, France)
    Thanks. Years and dollars boiled down to one post. Just for the glory...
     
  7. aravenel

    aravenel Well-Known Member

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    Great read. thanks Dirnelli.
     
  8. coloRLOw

    coloRLOw Well-Known Member

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  9. bigtimebuck4

    bigtimebuck4 Well-Known Member

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    at the bottom of the list there needs to be a differentiation between Z Zegna, Boss, Abboud, etc... and H&M, zara, calvin klein. While the former brands reputation exceeds their quality, there still exists a notable difference between their offerings and typical mall garbage like the latter. Also, Armani Collezioni, particularly the Giorgio and Sartorial Decco lines, are half canvassed, made in Italy, with good fabric and a modern cut. While not worth the retail price, they are not bad suits and probably belong in the Satisfactory group. However, since Armani is a four letter word on this forum we tend to completely discard the line.
     
  10. ryoneo

    ryoneo Well-Known Member

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    :wow:

    good job, dirnelli!
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2013
  11. kulata

    kulata Well-Known Member

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    Dirnelli, great job. A lot of effort went into the write up and it is much appreciated. I also like people with a wide range of experience from high end to low end brands like Zara. Shows your openness and love for the hobby.
     
  12. Apollotrader

    Apollotrader Well-Known Member

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    Well done however I feel you were a tad too negative on Oxxford. Conservative yes, uninteresting no, this just depends on ones bias, continental vs. traditional.
     
    2 people like this.
  13. TM79

    TM79 Well-Known Member

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    Boston
    

    None of those belong next to anything he reviewed - i.e. they're all just different forms of trash to pick through.

    You can also find many posts on a lot of those names, but not so many posts on names he took the time to review.

    Thanks for taking the time to do that, dirnelli.
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2013
  14. emiristol

    emiristol Well-Known Member

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    Can anyone speak to the appropriate position of the Japanese brand "Ring Jacket" (often seen in The Armoury's photos) in this list?
     
  15. dirnelli

    dirnelli Well-Known Member

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    SeamasterLux can do a first-hand review of Ring Jacket and Liverano RTW. I'll ask him to join the thread.
     
  16. SeamasterLux

    SeamasterLux Well-Known Member

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    Sep 23, 2012
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    Luxembourg
    Dear Sirs,

    I have tried the RJ when I purchased one at the Armoury. Excellent fit and very good quality overall. I would say 4 stars based on what has been said above.
    Price was 1100€. Picture can be found here http://paul-lux.tumblr.com/image/52234194446

    Regarding Liverano RTW, I was more than impressed by the cut and fit. It's produced by Isaia so no bad surprise on this side but honestly I had never tried on a RTW jacket before that felt so perfect right from the start. It comes at a certain price: 1600€.
    I don't regret the purchase at all. Even my bespoke tailor (Andrea Luparelli) told me it was an amazing jacket with perfect proportions. Well that's more than I could hope for, at least for a RTW.
    AFAIAC, 5 stars here.
    Picture: http://paul-lux.tumblr.com/post/47849092538/liverano-liverano-unlined-fresco-navy-jacket
     
  17. emiristol

    emiristol Well-Known Member

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  18. Xancatrius

    Xancatrius Well-Known Member

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    Slightly off topic but has anyone had any experience whatsoever with Sciamat?
     
  19. chocsosa

    chocsosa Well-Known Member

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    Fresno, CA
    what about Trussini guys? Where does it land on the list and can anyone speak to the quality and fit?
     
  20. druyeung

    druyeung Member

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    Apr 7, 2013
    Does anyone here have any experience with Sandro suits? The attention to detail is definitely there, but are they full/ half canvassed or fused?

    Cheers!
     

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