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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. JTA

    JTA Well-Known Member

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    Owned D'Avenza in the past and quality is super though not as high as Attolini. Think there's a need to distinguish the handwork and construction.
    Just my view, excellent construction with minimum handworks is less in my book than very good or decent construction with tons of handworks.
    The list is off also, how on earth Boglioli is in the same category as Paul Smith London or Z Zegna while Hugo Boss Selection is placed in a higher bracket, that's a blasphemy. Also Zegna Couture line should be in the excellent category.
     
  2. antirabbit

    antirabbit Well-Known Member

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    The list is looking better.
    I would add in the Good catagory-Ciffonelli RTW, which actually may be in the very good catagory just on the quality of their pants.
    Please add Enrico Isaia to the top level?

    Boglioli has several different levels-
    They have COAT, which is not as good as their own label, but still very nice from a fabric, cut, and style perspective.
    They also make for a bunch of YOOX brand suits, I have purchased a few and will say they are no better or worse than the COAT line.

    Luciano Barbera CS needs to be in the top tier, as their OEM makers are all in the top tier (Attolini, Partenopea, and St. Andrews)

    Cucinelli is exceptional only in their fabrics and style not in construction (I find it average). I would put them in the good catagory, but others may see them higher on the list.
     
  3. SirGrotius

    SirGrotius Well-Known Member

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    Three suits I don't see on the latest list (although one of them was on the former) are RLBL, Dior, and Burberry. I like ultra slim cuts on my suits, I imagine if I were to rank these three in terms of quality it'd go Dior, RLBL and Burberry...from best to least.

    Thoughts?

    Should I be looking at any other brands? I'm more into the cut than quality if I had to choose (but half canvass at a minimum). I'm also uncomfortable spending over 2K on a suit.
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2011
  4. antirabbit

    antirabbit Well-Known Member

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    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
    RLBL is Corneliani, Burberry is a number of makers, and Dior is in a different class as it is a pure fashion label, not something you would see alot of the business world wear, thus, the cut is drastically different than RLBL or Burberry.

    If you are all about super slim, try a Boglioli suit, they can be ultra slim, they are also less expensive on Yoox than say a Dior.
    Borrelli is also very very slim, or rather lean.
    Neither are as fashion forward as Dior, as Dior will tend to have trendy elements that seperate it from everything else on the list.
     
  5. NORE

    NORE Well-Known Member

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    Where is Polo on this list? I have owned suits from each tier (except Mediocre) and can definitely say that I have rotated everything else out in favor of a closet full of Polo and RL Signature line suits and coats. For style, fabric, cut & fit. It should be noted that I could care less about handwork.
     
  6. SirGrotius

    SirGrotius Well-Known Member

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    Perfect. Thanks so much.
     
  7. Thanks SF (a new me)

    Thanks SF (a new me) Well-Known Member

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    are there any additional Canali line besides what's already mentioned here (i.e Milano, Canali, K by Canali) ? I guess need to pay more attention to the labels as I might have an opportunity to score great deal on selected sport coats this weekend. Thanks
     
  8. antirabbit

    antirabbit Well-Known Member

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    Canali Proposta (something like that, I have one in the closet, but Im too lazy to go look). Its a lower level than the mainline.
     
  9. musicguy

    musicguy Well-Known Member

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    Okay, I give up! Too much info here. Why not just adjust my list with your additions/subtractions?
     
  10. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    you mean not bicker, be tangential and argue just for the sake of it, but rather follow the original thread concept. thats SF heresy. lol.
     
  11. KObalto

    KObalto Well-Known Member

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    RLP made in Italy is Corneliani half-canvassed. I like them, too. Probably in the Good category,
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2011
  12. Saturdays

    Saturdays Well-Known Member

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    Yup, however there are some RLP that is not Corneliani - I think those would probably land a bit lower. RL Rugby is the same way - post 2011 Made in Italy is Caruso made should be [***]-[****], however pre 2011 most likely fit [**]-[***].

    Where does Paul Stuart land in this? They have fantastic quality suits. I would think near RLBL..

    Also Ozwald Boateng - been fascinated recently with his work in Saville Row - I would think his suits are *****
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2011
  13. Superfluous

    Superfluous Well-Known Member

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    RLBL is Caruso.
     
  14. Saturdays

    Saturdays Well-Known Member

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    Correct, old RLBL stuff was Corneliani though from what I understand..in any case it doesn't matter anymore since this list is based on current wares
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2011
  15. dieselman89

    dieselman89 Well-Known Member

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    Are Brooks Brothers 1818 suits worth $600?
     
  16. stylemeup

    stylemeup Well-Known Member

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    I know very little about suits, except for the fair amount that I've read about them on the sf and AA forums.

    Based on what I've read, H&M and Boss do not belong in the "Mediocre" category.

    They should instead be in a new category that is not yet on the list, with a name such as "Trash."

    On a similar note, "Mediocre" and "Satisfactory" are synonyms. Having two categories named with words that mean the same thing makes no sense.

    I would also move M. Valentino out of the category currently listed as "Mediocre." From what I've read, M. Valentino are much better than a lot of the trash that is currently listed in that category as if they are of equivalent quality.
     
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2011
  17. Superfluous

    Superfluous Well-Known Member

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    RL Rugby is nowhere near "very good." Mediocre maybe.
     
  18. dieselman89

    dieselman89 Well-Known Member

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    Looking at some BB 1818 suits, are these worth $600?
     
  19. NORE

    NORE Well-Known Member

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    For me? No. For you? Maybe. But don't take my word, just go in and try them. If you like, buy. If not, run.
     
  20. dieselman89

    dieselman89 Well-Known Member

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    I understand they are half-canvased, their fabric comes from a mill in Italy and the suits are constructed in USA. They any good or are they on level with Hugo Boss?
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2011

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