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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Nov 22, 2011.

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  1. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Well-Known Member

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    +1.
     
  2. Persephone

    Persephone Active Member

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    Indeed! The actions of "most people" have never been a good example -- and this applies to all areas of life.
     
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  3. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Well-Known Member

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    I hear the same thing about Tuxedos, and about suits, about neck ties, and proper shoes. In the words of the Dowager Countess, "and another brick is pulled from the wall." That said, I do prefer a waistcoat, myself.
     
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  4. WICaniac

    WICaniac Well-Known Member

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    Well polished calf is also fine. In either case, the shoe needs to be plain-toed and (ideally) closed-laced or laceless (i.e. a slipper or pump).

    Because I'm on this forum, I pay keen attention to what others wear at BT events. In the three I've attended in the past year, I cannot recall seeing a single man without a waist covering. I saw plenty of notch lapels and pre-tied bow ties, but no uncovered waists. None of these was a wedding, and I suspect everyone owned their own rigs.


    I bought my vintage Krementz set on eBay and consider it a steal. I had to have my waistcoat MTO to accommodate the four buttons that are part of the set.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. BenMurphy

    BenMurphy Well-Known Member

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    A couple of noob questions:

    On the shoe subject, while laceless is preferable, is there an occasion where laced are inappropriate?

    And for waistcoats, I personally would prefer a waistcoat over a cummerbund- is there any situation where a waistcoat is not recommended/not acceptable?

    Ive found otr waistcoats appropriate for black tie very rare. Those of you who own one, how did you go about finding it?
     
  6. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Well-Known Member

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    Laced plain toe shoes are perfectly acceptable in any black tie context I can think of. Your other option of course would be opera pumps which have no laces. Either is fine.

    A waistcoat is always acceptable. Some believe that a cummerbund is better with a shawl collar tuxedo and that a waistcoat is better with a peak lapel tuxedo, but I do not believe there is anything wrong with a waistcoat with a shawl collar tuxedo either. Just make sure your waistcoat is properly cut (it should be barely visible; most waistcoats have too many buttons and are visible at too high a point on the torso).
     
  7. WICaniac

    WICaniac Well-Known Member

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    Look under "class waistcoats" at http://www.blacktieguide.com/Buying/Buying_Specialty.htm
    I ordered mine from Favourbrook: http://favourbrook.com/shop/product...stcoat-Shawl-Lapel-Black-Duchesse-Satin-FBM3/ I have grosgrain lapels and had this made in moire silk (matching my bow tie). Ralph Lauren (Purple Label) also makes an open-backed grosgrain waistcoat for about the same price.

    I tend to agree that a cummerbund looks better with shawl lapels.
     
  8. jeffd

    jeffd Well-Known Member

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    Can anyone point me to an extremely simple but elegant stud set? I'm thinking just simple thin "hockey pucks" in gold or silver with no ornamentation whatsoever. You'd think that would be a staple, but I can't find them anywhere.
     
  9. Van Veen

    Van Veen Well-Known Member

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    Kent Wang makes a reversible onyx/mother of pearl stud set with no ornamentation.
     
  10. J011yroger

    J011yroger Well-Known Member

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    I also think waistcoat+peak+wing collar or cummerbund+shawl+laydown are the best looking combinations, but no combination is really wrong.

    I would say if one was set on wearing a waistcoat with a shawl collar, that a more swoopy cut one would be more aestheticly pleasing than a more sharply angled and peaky one.

    J
     
  11. Mute

    Mute Well-Known Member

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    Even as a Californian, I've found at most black tie events, that a majority of the attendees are in fact wearing some kind of waist covering. The exception seems to be when they choose a straight tie over a bow tie.
     
  12. Persephone

    Persephone Active Member

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    I completely agree with you, Mute! I've been to black tie functions in eight or nine different countries, and the vast majority of men always wear some sort of waist covering with their dinner jackets. It might not agree with my aesthetic sensibilities, but a waist covering it is. Having never attended an evening function in California calling for black or white tie attire, I very much appreciate your perspective.
     
  13. Persephone

    Persephone Active Member

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    I adore Dame Maggie Smith and Downton Abbey.
    Having said that, I second your comment that all kinds of clothing artefacts are labelled as archaic or even pronounced dead only to make a surprising comeback. Based on my own observations during the past five years or so, I think it's rather premature. On the contrary, I find that all these things are very much alive unless one considers a Cambridge May Ball to be the gold standard.

    http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/art...vements-stagger-hats-ball-gowns-215-ball.html

    P.S. No, I don't typically read the Daily Wail, but sometimes they just hit the proverbial nail on the head :).
     
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  14. WICaniac

    WICaniac Well-Known Member

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    http://www.marlowwhite.com/01-125.html
     
  15. jeffd

    jeffd Well-Known Member

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    Awesome, thank you. I'd prefer silver, but I'll take it.
     
  16. gdl203

    gdl203 Well-Known Member

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    Some snaps from a recent wedding

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  17. The Phog

    The Phog Member

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    Is that the Formosa tux?
     
  18. gdl203

    gdl203 Well-Known Member

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  19. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

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    Damn, Greg. Can you, like, adopt me or something?
     
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  20. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Well-Known Member

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    That tux looks awesome. I'm loving the aggressive peak lapels.
     

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