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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Nov 22, 2011.

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  1. WICaniac

    WICaniac Well-Known Member

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    Thus speaketh the Beast!
     
  2. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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    three button cut is how you wear the 375Q from BB
     
  3. Snoogz

    Snoogz Well-Known Member

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    I purchased his double sided onyx / white MOP stud set as well. And damn his customer service is top notch. My first package was lost in transit, he mailed out another promptly, with no hesitation... Anyways, back to black tie...
     
  4. WICaniac

    WICaniac Well-Known Member

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    Glad to see 667; I've been meaning to order some of his pocket squares. He's posted somewhere on SF that his shirts have the appropriate (3) number of stud holes, but I've often wondered whether long-torsoed fellows who wear a cummerbund needed four. (I wouldn't know, always wearing a waistcoat).
     
  5. random-adam

    random-adam Well-Known Member

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    I'm similarly interested -- but until there exists a three-studded formal shirt with 36.5" sleeves, I won't be buying one. :facepalm:

    I'd like to second the Kent Wang recommendation. The occasion came up last night for me to be in eveningwear; my pocket square, cuff links, and umbrella were all courtesy that guy. They were small details amid a sea of poorly-fitted notch-lapelled bad decisions... but I felt like a million bucks.
     
  6. J011yroger

    J011yroger Well-Known Member

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    Hey fellas,

    I just attended a "Black Tie Suggested" wedding for one of my dear friends last night, and this is what I wore. Was fun to wear one of my tuxes, and I am going to actively seek out opportunities to do so more often.

    As for the rest of the guests, (approx 150 people) the men tried their best with the vast majority wearing some form of black-tie(ish)(maybe 25%) with notch lapels, vents, and flap pockets running rampant, or dark suits and dark ties (maybe 60%). The rest wore what I suspected was their best suit, only a few were obnoxiously light in color, and there was the obligatory smattering of repulsively patterned ties that looked like they were bought at Sears or Kohls.

    The men's effort could best be summed up by Jack Nicholson's famous line from "One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest", "But I tried, didn't I? Goddamnit, at least I did that."

    The women on the other hand tried to do something, but I am still not quite sure what that something was. But we don't care about what the women wore right? Because this is man-stuff over here!

    J


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    3 people like this.
  7. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Well-Known Member

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    I love the pocket square. Very nice, understated, pop of personality.
     
  8. BackInTheJox

    BackInTheJox Well-Known Member

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    Not a fan of the shirt collar choice. But at least you tried, right?
     
  9. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Well-Known Member

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    There's nothing incorrect about the shirt. Not my cup of tea either, but it's correct appropriate.

    Jo11yRoger - on the shirt, I think the collar is a little short. I'm not a fan of the covered placket combined with the wing collar, but both details are correct, and that one comes down to preference. I would definitely starch it more next time, so that the bosom is a bit stiffer and cleaner.
     
  10. BackInTheJox

    BackInTheJox Well-Known Member

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    Huh? I said I wasn't a fan of it. I didn't say anything about the correctness (although pairing a collar like that with a shawl lapel is pretty silly, I must admit).
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Well-Known Member

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    You did not say it was incorrect, no. I was not arguing, just making a comment that there is not anything technically wrong with the shirt's details. I do agree that a turndown collar looks better with a shawl collared jacket. I'm also not much of a fan of pleated fronts, and they are also completely correct. But, that might have to do with my high school tour band uniform being a pleated front shirt with wing collar, ridiculously undersized pre-tied bow tie that we were instructed to wear under the tips of the collar, cheap plastic studs, any black dress pants we wanted to wear, and, la piece de résistance, a teal cummerbund. No jacket, of course. We made waiters and bell hops look very sharp.

    And no, I won't be posting a picture, lol.
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2013
  12. J011yroger

    J011yroger Well-Known Member

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    I agree on all counts, I love the shirt, but would have preferred a turn down collar with the shawl.

    My cleaner does all my shirts no starch, so I will have to specify that I want this one starched to hell. I was upset it was so slack and wrinkled but I keep too much jammed in my closets, so things get beat up.

    My turndown collar shirts were a bit... snug, and I think that is due to one too many orders of wings this season.

    But the collar tunnel is mint! I'll have to take a pic with a peak collar dinner jacket.

    In the meanwhile, I'll be on the lookout for a new turndown shirt that isn't too horribly blousy when tucked in.

    J
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2013
  13. J011yroger

    J011yroger Well-Known Member

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    I find myself 50/50 on pleats with jackets. I don't mind them at all if I'm wearing braces, or suspenders, or whatever you call them.

    J
     
  14. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Well-Known Member

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    I am sure that, in New York, many members here will have recommendations for places to get a shirt made. If you are looking for a more budget option, I am very happy with my piqué shirt from clermontdirect.com. Ended up costing me about $50 with shipping, and then just had to get it darted. You can also add a trouser tab to keep it from blousing. blog.blacktieguide.com just featured them the other day. I need one on my shirt; forgot to add it before my wedding :(
     
  15. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Well-Known Member

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    I think, partly, I have seen so many, many, cheap and awful pleated shirts. I have seen some recently, especially now that I have started paying more attention when I see Tuxedos anywhere, on TV, in ads, in stores, in real life, etc., that look nice.
     
  16. J011yroger

    J011yroger Well-Known Member

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    Yea, if I NEEDED something, I could have it made, but I have a powerful aversion to paying full price for anything.

    While my budget is by no means unlimited, the fact that I never HAVE to buy something serves me well in that I can just take things as they come. I also enjoy the hunt.

    J
     
  17. J011yroger

    J011yroger Well-Known Member

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    I'm an idiot, I misread, and thought you meant pleated pants.

    I waitered in high school; I will never wear a pleated front shirt again.

    Well except last year when I wore one with a top hat to run the tough mudder.

    J
     
  18. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Well-Known Member

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    Please tell me it was a cheap wool top hat, and that you didn't risk one of the world's remaining silk plush hats.
     
  19. J011yroger

    J011yroger Well-Known Member

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    It was a costume store cheapo.

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    J
     
  20. WICaniac

    WICaniac Well-Known Member

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    So wings beget winged collars?
     

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