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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Nov 22, 2011.

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  1. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Well-Known Member

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    But if you do purchase as a set, make sure it's not a pre-tied bow, as many sets have this.


    Before going with grosgrain, make sure the tie is easy enough to tie. Grosgrain is thicker and I've found grosgrain bows difficult to tie at times. Better to go with satin and have it tie right than the alternative. Plus I don't see many grosgrain waistcoats or cummerbunds.
     
  2. haganah

    haganah Well-Known Member

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    Thoughts on getting a grosgrain balmoral?

    And any reason to do a good year alfred sargent templar over a blake stitched shipton & heneage? The blake will be thinner and I doubt I will ever need to re-sole these that often that a goodyear would be better.
     
  3. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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    go blake. goodyear is inappropriate for blacktie. cemented is best.
     
  4. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Well-Known Member

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    Not to mention a goodyear welt is only of value if you expect the upper to last significantly longer than the sole. If you have a grosgrain upper, I doubt it'll take more abuse than the leather sole underneath it (not that either will take much abuse given how infrequently they are typically worn these days).
     
  5. haganah

    haganah Well-Known Member

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    This is what I was thinking. Shipton actually pointed me towards C&J and Sargent because the quality was supposedly better. I just can't imagine that patent leather quality differs that much so it has to be the sole construction. If that's the case, as nice as having patent shoes last forever sounds, I don't imagine I'd ever wear them enough to require new ones let alone desire to have creased uppers with new soles.

    Anyway these were the three shoes I was considering:

    http://www.shipton-usa.com/mens-shoes/patent-leather-shoes/tamar-mens-patent-oxford.html
    [​IMG]

    http://www.comparestoreprices.co.uk...alfred-sargent-classic-collection-templar.asp
    [​IMG]

    http://www.barneys.com/Salvatore-Ferragamo-Plain-Toe-Balmoral/501396516,default,pd.html
    [​IMG]
     
  6. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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  7. Veremund

    Veremund Well-Known Member

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    Not to be curt, but that's utter nonsense.
     
  8. TheWraith

    TheWraith Well-Known Member

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  9. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Well-Known Member

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    Perhaps I should have said: If you have trouble with getting a grosgrain bow to tie properly, due to it being thicker silk, then just go with a satin tie since having it tied right is better than having it match your lapel facings if you can only pick one.

    I wasn't suggesting to abandon grosgrain for satin automatically, but rather to just make sure whatever grosgrain you are looking at isn't too thick to get it tied properly (which has as much to do with one's bow tie tying experience as anything).
     
  10. haganah

    haganah Well-Known Member

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    Thoughts on waistcoats?

    A) Full back with the fabric,
    B) bemberg back (kiton's style),
    C) Backless

    I was also considering asking for it fully unlined so it is thinner and cooler.
     
  11. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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    bemberg back
     
  12. Digmenow

    Digmenow Well-Known Member

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    Hah! I should have!

    Well, I ran short of time to have the navy suit cleaned and pressed so I went with my newly fitted dark gray BB Golden Fleece. The theme for the evening was "Vegas Nite" and there were spinning lights of various colors splashing around the room so my snowy white shirt appears pink, as does my face, which is usually more sallow. I couldn't even begin to adjust the tie to the proper colors using standard photobucket softwear tools. The happy fellow beside me (brother-in-law) is wearing a finely striped navy/lighter blue Jack Victor and a blue shirt. His tie, contrary to appearance, was a very soft and slubby gold with widely spaced blue and white dots. I mention all of this because I found these items for him while I was over 1300 miles away and this was his first wearing of them after some minor alterations. Our pose completely destroyed the hours of work getting my damned suit to fit as I wanted so you'll have to take my word that it looked pretty good.

    As you can see by the folks in the deep background wearing some manner of denim, we were the two best dressed guys in the place, even among the other 10% of suit wearing and/or black tie clad gents. When will the 'jeans and flip flops' look pass into oblivion? :uhoh: Not soon enough, IMO!

    [​IMG]


    Thanks again for the straight steer. It was a nice time for us all.
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  13. nyarkies

    nyarkies Well-Known Member

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  14. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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  15. nyarkies

    nyarkies Well-Known Member

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  16. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    I got mine with a full back in case I wanted to take off my coat for dancing.
     
  17. Veremund

    Veremund Well-Known Member

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    Sorry about my rude phrasing, I had quite a few pints in me last night. :(
     
  18. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Well-Known Member

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    No offense taken, and I realized that my post could be interpreted as "stay away from grosgrain, just in case".
     
  19. Moloch38

    Moloch38 Well-Known Member

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    I highly prefer grosgrain over satin for its texture. I think subtle texture always makes the difference especially with black tie where you are already constrained by "black tie" but in a good way.
     
  20. Stebbin

    Stebbin Well-Known Member

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    What's the consensus on having a black grosgrain bow tie with midnight blue lapel grosgrain interfacings? I doubt I'll find a tie and cummerbund that would match up perfectly with the lapels my midnight blue tux.
     

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