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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Nov 22, 2011.

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  1. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

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    Brooks Brothers was so proud of the details of their new Great Gatsby line that they focused on this:

    [​IMG]

    :facepalm:
     
  2. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Well-Known Member

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    At least they sort of managed to hide the pocket flaps...
     
  3. CesarC

    CesarC Well-Known Member

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    Thanks all for your advice regarding the bow + lapel pairing. I will look into asking Budd and T&A. All of the grosgrain I found in stores was a terrible match, so I went with what I had since I was in a pinch. Only decided to go to the event about a week out, so not much time. It's a winter-weight flannel that will give me some more search time before I have to wear it again, so I'll try to do a better job on the next occasion.

    Here was the result, cross-posted to the "Thrift Thread Fits: Formal Wear" thread
    With the old-timeyness of the lapels and styling I thought a white linen square was too stodgy, and white silk clashed with the blue flannel. I went for a periwinkle silk, but wasn't sure how I felt about it. The color looks much better in person and is growing on me, but not sold on it yet. Thoughts?
     
  4. SkinnyGoomba

    SkinnyGoomba Well-Known Member

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    The gatsby tux is really fantastic, but I dont like the vest or bowtie they pair with it.

    If it makes you guys feel any better about the state of blacktie, one of my groomsmen has decided to buy a mainline brooksbrothers tux rather than renting. To further encourage this I've decided to pick up all of the furnishings for him.

    They've also posed no objections to my rather draconian dress code for this event, in fact everyone is happy that we are not doing anything goofy like matching the bridesmaids or wearing neck ties.
     
    2 people like this.
  5. johnvw

    johnvw Well-Known Member

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    Good on you for your exercise of sartorial discipline and your choice to associate with like-minded friends! All the best for the wedding--and beyond!
     
  6. Veremund

    Veremund Well-Known Member

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    Looks great!
     
  7. WICaniac

    WICaniac Well-Known Member

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    A bit. Here's my vintage Kremintz black MOP formal set on a vintage Marshall Fields waistcoat I found at an antique store.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I thought the waistcoat (which is mint) was a steal at $36, but it's cut for the high-waisted trousers that prevailed before WWII and is too short to cover the waist of my trousers. I had to custom order a waistcoat from Favourbrook to use the studs. I'm happy with the result (if not the only photo I have):

    [​IMG]


    It may be hard to discern in the photo above, but the jacket is a SB PL with grosgrain facings. As I was determined to wear a waistcoat and unwilling to dump $450 on the RL PL model in grosgrain (the only one I have been able to find in that material), I reconciled myself to the idea of wearing a tie and waistcoat that did not match the lapel facings. It's (still) hard to tell in the photo, but the tie and waistcoat are of a fine-ribbed black moire silk that is deeper/darker/"blacker" than the tux or its facings. I think the only rule is that the tie must match the waist covering, but I think any patterned silk is preferable to satin if you're wearing grosgrain lapels.

    I'm not crazy about this particular pattern, either, but it's a welcome option at $175. There are exceedingly few options for traditionally-styled black waistcoats, and I ultimately spent over $300 on the one pictured above. The entire Gatsby line from BB is incredible, although little of it is as reasonably priced as this.
     
  8. LabelKing

    LabelKing Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    Dior Homme party Beijing.

    1970s Brioni, Budd shirt, Cartier studs.
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2013
    2 people like this.
  9. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    Is the Budd silk or cotton?
     
  10. LabelKing

    LabelKing Well-Known Member

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    Cotton voile with a hand embroidered front.
     
  11. WICaniac

    WICaniac Well-Known Member

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    Very sharp. The fact that nearly everyone in the background (excluding the balcony) is looking at the camera lends the whole shot a surreal aesthetic, as well.
     
  12. LabelKing

    LabelKing Well-Known Member

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  13. Kent Wang

    Kent Wang Well-Known Member

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    Somebody find that Phat Guido pic at Shanghai Pudong airport.
     
  14. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    Is this truely how far we have fallen?

    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]
     
  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    Holy crap--how did I miss the return of LabelKing?
     
  16. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

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    Sadly, yes.
     
  17. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Well-Known Member

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    As well as on encouraging (rather than discouraging) the groomsmen to procure their own tuxes (as in buy one that suits them but is within your prescribed dress code)!
     
  18. throwbookatface

    throwbookatface Member

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    This is why I don't trust official brand "style guides" any more than their salepeople on the floor. If you stock a skinny notch-lapel flap-pocket tuxedo jacket you're going to try to sell it to me for my wedding. Sugarbutch, your sig is more relevant than ever.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. 518aata

    518aata Well-Known Member

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    How unfortunate that Mr. Porter didn't have dinner jackets in the model's size (or length). Sigh.
     
  20. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Well-Known Member

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