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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Nov 22, 2011.

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  1. J011yroger

    J011yroger Well-Known Member

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    I'm going to say that he has it on right-side up, and were it worn any higher his waistband would be exposed.

    J
     
  2. Erablian

    Erablian Member

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    Pleats pointed up, as in the photo, is the traditional way. The mnemonic to remember this is the nickname “crumbcatcher” for cummerbund. As far as I know, only US Army mess dress wear cummerbunds with pleats pointing down.
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2014
  3. J011yroger

    J011yroger Well-Known Member

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    Is there a good resource for dating formal wear? I am accumulating quite a bit of vintage stuff, and am just curious as to when it was made both for my own curiosity, and to look up pictures of the decades they were from.

    J
     
  4. Digmenow

    Digmenow Well-Known Member

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    If it's true vintage stuff (not just something from the early 80's, for instance) post up some pics here.

    The Official Vintage Clothing and Accessories Thread

    Those guys are pretty helpful.
     
  5. J011yroger

    J011yroger Well-Known Member

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    Great, I'll round up a bunch of things and post up pictures.

    J
     
  6. J011yroger

    J011yroger Well-Known Member

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    Tried on a bunch of stuff tonight, my mother of pearl studs while they look quite nice in the jewelry box are very inconspicuous against the white shirt maybe best for white tie or a more solomn less festive event.

    I didn't want to wear onyx ones because I feel they are pretty common, so I am leaning towards these.

    Thoughts?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    J
     
  7. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Well-Known Member

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    ^ What exactly is wrong with inconspicuous? Mother of pearl studs are very tasteful and classic.
     
  8. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Well-Known Member

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    He's trying to be flashy and funky for a theme party, that's mostly going to be informally attired people, I believe.
     
  9. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Well-Known Member

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  10. aznorazizul

    aznorazizul Member

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    Quote: Here are some pics illustrating my problem. I can't believe Brooks Brothers would put a non-stud button on the pique bib. In any case, I think that the quickest/easiest/cheapest route is simply to get the button cut off and another stud hole made (my tailor can do it for $20). That leaves me with 5 studs, which I very much dislike, but is otherwise innocuous. I definitely regret the low rise pants, and when I replace this tux, I will have something MTM with a more reasonable cut.

    I agreed you should be wearing it a bit higher. That is from my personal observation. The cummerband shouldn't be worn as belt.
     
  11. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Well-Known Member

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    Very Nice jacket
     
  12. J011yroger

    J011yroger Well-Known Member

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    I'd wear them to a wedding, the opera, or similar, but this is for a Gatsby era gala celebrating the one year anniversary of a theater opening, so I am looking for a bit more impact without being costumey.


    Yes, but I assume the actual theatre folk will be equipped, so I need to be on my game just in case.

    Not that it's a competition.



    Thank you sir, I love it even though I have not yet worn it out yet, just grabbed it for a try-on since it was out of the closet already since the sleeves need to be done.

    J
     
  13. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Well-Known Member

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    This statement confuses me.
     
  14. J011yroger

    J011yroger Well-Known Member

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    Stupid question, do the bars on the back of shirt studs go north to south, or east to west?

    J
     
  15. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Well-Known Member

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    Whatever holds the stud and shirt, together best. So, perpendicular to the opening would be the most logical conclusion.
     
  16. J011yroger

    J011yroger Well-Known Member

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    I usually don't futz around with the slider and put the bar perpendicular to the rear hole, then push the thing through like a normal button; I just have an academic curiosity as to how it is supposed to work.

    I assume button holes used to be smaller.

    J
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2014
  17. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Well-Known Member

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    I remember someone asking about round holes in his shirt weeks or months ago. I assumed it was something to do with this.

    Also, I've got the opera and symphony on the 8 th, and 1 St, respectively, and still haven't come up with any fun ways to mix up my ensemble fit cheap. Any suggestions?

    Also, does anyone know where I might find a cummerbund pattern?
     
  18. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Well-Known Member

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    My shirt takes five studs, so I wear my three vintage, with sliders in the to three. I futz with them, on an academic level, trying to get the knack of sliding then in from the front. The bottom two are cheapos from the set that came with the shirt, so they have a big disc back, and have to be done like a button through both layers.
     
  19. J011yroger

    J011yroger Well-Known Member

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    I use vintage MoP ones with no metal around them to pick up the slack since they are pretty incognito.

    J
     
  20. J011yroger

    J011yroger Well-Known Member

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    Better off with notch lapel black overcoat, or DB peak lapel gray one?

    I usually wear the black, but was thinking that maybe the gray peak would be an ok alternative.

    Having a heck of a time thrifting a nice Chesterfield.

    These old bastards need to donate their stuff so that I can put it to good use drinking, carousing, and womanizing.

    J
     

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