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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Nov 22, 2011.

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  1. Tried and True

    Tried and True Well-Known Member

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    A White Tie (detachable wing collar, stiff front) shirt would be about the only item differentiating the 20s from today. Not to say that soft front, turn down collar shirts weren't worn but the White Tie shirt was the choice of most.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2014
  2. J011yroger

    J011yroger Well-Known Member

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    Well, that part goes without saying, but I was asking more about styles or accessories that might give a hint to the era.

    I'll likely wear vintage studs and such.

    J
     
  3. J011yroger

    J011yroger Well-Known Member

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    Cool. Thanks.

    J
     
  4. Roycru

    Roycru Well-Known Member

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    Not a picture from the Roaring Twenties, but a picture of my Father (second from left) at a wedding in San Francisco around 1930.

    [​IMG]
     
    3 people like this.
  5. sftiger

    sftiger Well-Known Member

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    What are you thoughts on vintage studs? I can't figure out the right kind to get for my black / white tie rigs.

    I want to get something besides just plain black, but I can't tell what would look good but not distract from the formality of white tie. What kinds of studs do you all wear? Also, I need studs with larger backs because whenever I wear them they seem to fall out of my shirt. Not sure if that's a problem with the shirt, the studs, or me...
     
  6. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Well-Known Member

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    You mean aside from borrowing my waistcoat? [​IMG] You could go with a marcella vest, and high wing collar, or completely the other way, with a cummerbund, and turn down. Cummerbunds were new, and very fashionable, in the 20's. You could wear black and white spectators, if you want to be tongue in cheek - I think that depends how "gala" it is, vs. how "costume."

    Some Art Deco links and/or studs would help. A Homburg, of course! Fat lapels, if you have a DJ with that feature. White DJ's arrived in the 30's, so avoid being one of the people who will, inevitably, confuse Casablanca with the 20's. It also doesn't go with the wing collar shirt you plan to wear.

    Care to fly me out, and take me as your guest? Failing that, a lady in a flapper dress, something like the white one my wife is sporting in one of my recent photos. Wear such a woman on your arm, and your own efforts will be delightfully overlooked.
     
  7. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Well-Known Member

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    @Midnight Blue , would there be any bow tie shapes more, or less, accurate to the 1920's, for @J011yroger 's theme fit?
     
  8. J011yroger

    J011yroger Well-Known Member

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    I like mother of pearl, I have a goldtone and onyx set, but I think they look kind of...forced?

    J
     
  9. J011yroger

    J011yroger Well-Known Member

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    I'd love a set of black and white spectators to go with my black peak lapel chalkstripe suit, but couldn't bring myself to wear them with black tie.

    Both my peak dinner jackets have normal width lapels, so maybe I'll wear a shawl?


    J
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2014
  10. J011yroger

    J011yroger Well-Known Member

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    Excellent picture Roy!

    J
     
  11. Midnight Blue

    Midnight Blue Well-Known Member

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    Not really. There was a pretty wide range of shapes that were in style during this time.
     
  12. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Well-Known Member

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    The spectators would be period accurate, among younger men purposefully ignoring convention, but correct neither then, nor now. So, probably good call not wearing them. I think either peak or shawl will be fine. The wing collar is angular, so you can either offset it with shawl, or coordinate with it with peaks.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2014
  13. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Well-Known Member

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    ^ Hmmm. I tend to think that a wing collar looks considerably better with peak lapels. In addition to pure aesthetics, the wing collar is a better match in terms of formality level with peak lapels.
     
  14. J011yroger

    J011yroger Well-Known Member

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    On the topic of more formal, have any of you fellas worn or seen a white vest with black tie?

    I know it is listed as a dressier option in the guide, but worry it will look forced or costumey in practice.

    J
     
  15. Tried and True

    Tried and True Well-Known Member

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    White vests were worn with BT in the 20s.
     
  16. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Well-Known Member

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    Someone posted a photo of himself in one for the Met, either in this thread, or waywrn. It was opening night, I think he said, so that wis help you find it by date.
     
  17. WICaniac

    WICaniac Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
    I wear these black MOP vintage studs and cufflinks with BT. Because they're on white gold and reflect quite a bit of light (they remind me of a walleye's eyes), I think they'd work as well on a white waistcoat. Because the studs are rather small, I had my wife "tighten" the buttonholes on my BB marcella shirt.
     
  18. sftiger

    sftiger Well-Known Member

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    Wait what am I looking at? Is that two pairs of cufflinks and three studs? Or one pair of cufflinks, four studs, and a few collar buttons? How did she tighten the buttonholes while still allowing you to put the studs in? Just sewed them up a little?
     
  19. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Well-Known Member

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    A pair of double sided cuff links, four waistcoat studs, and three shirt studs.
     
  20. WICaniac

    WICaniac Well-Known Member

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    InTheGroom is correct. I bought the set before I had a waistcoat. I tried finding a vintage waistcoat and was initially very excited to find this at an antique store for $30:
    [​IMG]
    The only problem is that it's from the era a high-waisted trousers, and it's a couple of inches too short to cover my waistband. I ended up ordering this, made to specs with stud holes instead of buttons an in a moire silk that matches my bow tie: http://favourbrook.com/shop/product...stcoat-Shawl-Lapel-Black-Duchesse-Satin-FBM3/

    As for the buttonholes: yes, just a couple of small stitches to the top and bottom of each of them.
     

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