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The Official Temple of Jawnz Thread

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by impolyt_one, Sep 9, 2009.

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  1. panchley

    panchley Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jul 29, 2006
    Received my TOJ0 varsity a couple of weeks ago and love it. Dis was great to work with in terms of sizing/customization. Fast shipping too. I highly recommend TOJ and I'm now working on my Moto Leather order.

    Here's a fit pic (I'm 5'5" 140 for reference). Ended up with a size 48 body with size 50 arms both shortened by an inch.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. asobu

    asobu Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,211
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    Feb 18, 2007
    Perfect fit. Black/black looks great.
     
  3. emptym

    emptym Well-Known Member

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    Wow, this all looks very promising, particularly this harrington:
    3. The TOJ G'Harrington, gore-tex available now, $180 shipped, non reversible or reversible
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I'm very interested, but have a few questions:
    Is it real Gore-Tex or some other waterproof/breathable laminate?
    Is the laminate laminated to a polyester or nylon fabric? Or something else?
    Is it 3-layer, 2-layer, or 2.5?
    Is black the only color available?
    Would a reversible (your Gore-Tex and a water-resistant cotton/poly twill) jacket w/ self-fabric cuffs cost $180?

    Thanks!
     
  4. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    The Temple of Jawnz
    d, can you cut a leather for a woman? need a nice leather for the wife.

    Yes, and I've decided I'll knock off $25 off the shipped price as well as the women's jackets are gonna be that much smaller. They'd need to be of my TOJ styles, so the perfecto double rider's would probably be most attractive to women, and I'll flip the front plackets accordingly and they'll zip up the individual's left side rather than right. I'd need comprehensive measurements as with any jacket I make, but definitely doable.

    How long until we see a Farinellis Vs. TOJ piece?

    I am looking for collaborators, but most of my clothing pieces are on lock and I've got them taken care of. I am looking for certain things I can't get made easily on my own but they're kind of esoteric and not really urgent, so as time goes by, there will be a few collabos that trickle out and I'll try to surprise you as they come.

    Support this man and his dope cluthinz!

    Thank you again sir, as I've said, the TOJ would be nothing without the support this summer and I am working to take it to new levels each time.

    Received my TOJ0 varsity a couple of weeks ago and love it. Dis was great to work with in terms of sizing/customization. Fast shipping too. I highly recommend TOJ and I'm now working on my Moto Leather order.

    Here's a fit pic (I'm 5'5" 140 for reference). Ended up with a size 48 body with size 50 arms both shortened by an inch.

    [​IMG]


    Great fit. Looks pretty much damn near perfect from here, I wouldn't have changed anything in hindsight.
     
  5. thekunk07

    thekunk07 Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    nyc
    thanks d. i will email you bout the women's double rider.
    where's the photos of it?
     
  6. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Well-Known Member

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    Wow, this all looks very promising, particularly this harrington:

    I'm very interested, but have a few questions:
    Is it real Gore-Tex or some other waterproof/breathable laminate?
    Is the laminate laminated to a polyester or nylon fabric? Or something else?
    Is it 3-layer, 2-layer, or 2.5?
    Is black the only color available?
    Would a reversible (your Gore-Tex and a water-resistant cotton/poly twill) jacket w/ self-fabric cuffs cost $180?

    Thanks!


    To rapid fire some answers;

    -real gore-tex; it's hung at the fabric wholesalers with a goretex logo hangtag
    -I am not really sure, it's got a greyish synthetic backing that is not visible when the garment is made up; I've tested it several times and it has the typical water resistant beading and then eventual soft saturation that gore-tex takes on when it goes from dripped on to completely submerged in water for extended periods.
    -not sure again, but it's a lightweight fabric and deceptively soft, as people tend to think of heavy mountaineering jackets when they hear gore-tex, and it's not that
    -black and grey are available for genuine goretex, and then alternative fabrics (cottons, silk taffetas) are available in place of them in many other colors
    -yes, $180 for reversible or non-reversible, either one
     
  7. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Well-Known Member

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    thanks d. i will email you bout the women's double rider.
    where's the photos of it?


    tis being made and I hope for it to be ready by Tuesday or Weds but it may require a second sample if I'm not satisified with the look. Playing that one by ear.
     
  8. emptym

    emptym Well-Known Member

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    Sep 22, 2007
    To rapid fire some answers;

    -real gore-tex; it's hung at the fabric wholesalers with a goretex logo hangtag

    Sounds good. Thanks!
    Hmm. Would you be able to take close--ups of both sides of the fabric?

    Very interesting. 2-layer is usually softest and 3-layer is usually toughest/most rigid. But it could be that the fabric the laminate is bonded to is very thin and pliable. The Gore-Tex site says "A 2-layer laminate is made by bonding a shell fabric to the membrane for use on the outside of a garment; a 3-layer laminate is made by bonding a shell fabric to the outside of the membrane and a knit to the inside." Since you said it has a grayish synthetic backing, it sounds like it might be 3-layer. 2.5-layer usually has some kind of rubber dot matrix sprayed on to the inside. That, or the inside layer (bonded in 3-layer) or hung (as in 2-layer) prevents the laminate/membrane from wearing away from the inside.

    Excellent. I'll be emailing you. Thanks!
     
  9. DeadDJ

    DeadDJ Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    996
    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2008
    I cut patterns for each order, and then I place them with separate tailors who specialize in each kind of piece.
    Do you personally cut the patterns? You got that fashunz school education? Seriously curious.
     
  10. Biscotti

    Biscotti Well-Known Member

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    Nov 6, 2008
    Is there a slight possibility that you could make a jacket out of horsehide? I understand that it will cost significantly more if possible.
     
  11. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Well-Known Member

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    Do you personally cut the patterns? You got that fashunz school education? Seriously curious.

    I do personally cut the patterns; I have a standard block I use (and want to continue to use for the rest of the existence of the TOJ) and I modify it to fit each person based on their instructions and the type of jacket I'm making. So far, I've been happy with the results, the fits are turning out pretty well (refer to superfuture thread to see more user fits) and I think the jackets on their own have a nice elegance that comes from the pattern. The leathers are made from modified patterns based on the varsity jacket (pictured above) so people who've bought those will be able to size themselves pretty easily for future items.

    My personal education, I have a plain jane bachelor's degree in Business, and haven't really used much of my college education beyond the bitches and the booze since graduation. Pretty much only the bitches and the booze, so for this, I am most definitely self taught. I guess I'm better with a measuring tape, ruler, and swiss curve than the average person, I did have abackground in the arts prior to college. I can sew, but I delegate the sewing of these items to people who have about 40 years more experience in sewing than me and can put out my product in reasonable time at a much more expert level. I've also owned a whole bunch of nice clothes and know what I want from clothes I'd make myself, so that factors in as well.

    I do find this is one of the better things I've done in my life so far though, I'm proud of what I am making here. I like clothes and I think people are going to be immensely happy with the things they get from me, I am pouring a lot of time and work into them. I think it will show once you open the package...

    Is there a slight possibility that you could make a jacket out of horsehide? I understand that it will cost significantly more if possible.

    In my country, there's not too many horses, unfortunately, so horsehide isn't available as far as I've seen, and I buy all of my stuff at industry wholesale pointsso i'd say that's absolute. My cowhide is competitive with steerhide, I'd say though, it's very tough and extremely weighty, about double that of my lamb. If you want something that looks classic and will take 2 years to break in, opt for the cowhide and I think you'd be very happy.
    Also, I'm no vegetarian nor am I opposed to wearing animals, and I know that horsehides in America are taken under fairly careful watch, but I feel better about using lamb and cowhide as offcasts of the meat industry rather than horses, as they're a bit different in circumstance and I find cowhide and horsehide to not look or feel as different, compared to lamb and cow, a situation of diminishing returns and hype value there. I know we're here on the internet talking about clothes that age well, but I want you to get the most for your money now and for the new few years, but honestly don't expect or really want you to wear the Temple of Jawnz when you're 75 and I'm already dead, you would look like sonicvoodoo from superfuture [​IMG]
     
  12. k4ppah

    k4ppah Well-Known Member

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    Feb 19, 2009
    Can't wait to see the perfecto. Fit pics, too.
     
  13. Biscotti

    Biscotti Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Nov 6, 2008
    Well once you have some pics of the Perfecto style jacket, I'll let you know. [​IMG]
     
  14. aeglus

    aeglus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Apr 16, 2009
    Location:
    Shanghai
    Well once you have some pics of the Perfecto style jacket, I'll let you know. [​IMG]

    Pretty much likewise. Trying to decide between moto or perfecto style.
     
  15. sweatybrain

    sweatybrain Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    75
    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2006
    Re: varsity jacket, is it possible to get the standard stripe ribbing cuff and hem instead of the solid color you currently have?
     
  16. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Well-Known Member

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    yes, depending on the color you want; the striped trim is striped on one side and solid on the other, so it works when flipped to the MA-1 as well. It's rare and hard to match though, and oft times it is the quality made for real sportswear and not nicer clothing, so solid trim has been made the standard. If you understand this and are set on the stripe trim, I can do it. For some guys, the striped trim is the deal breaker.
     
  17. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Well-Known Member

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    I'm getting pretty anxious here, the perfecto and brown A2 samples should be out very soon, and I'll have the whole leather lineup better sorted out by then.

    I'll describe the house fit of the jackets:

    TOJ moto - slim, not tight; falling to right above the waistband, perhaps a bit on the short side. The sleeves and body are straight cut on this so measuring ideal lengths should be easier (or harder). The keystone measurement for getting a good fit IMO would be the shoulder width. Give me a shoulder to shoulder measurement in a half-inch increment, and then let me know whether you have a broad chest or not; most people will fit into the house torso body pattern, some guys with particularly large upper bodies will want to get a combination of accordian sleeve backs and a slight bump out of the p2p to give it some chest.
    I also need to know your bicep circumference, flexed and unflexed, to decide on a sleeve size. The house cut (body+sleeves) pattern is for skinny guys with pretty much no muscle.

    A2- same as above, but less tapered in on the sides as it has the ribbed waistband, so the back has a relaxed fit. The front upper body when zipped comes in close to the body, the rest is slightly relaxed as a bomber does.
    Again -> shoulder to shoulder, pit to pit, and then body and sleeve length and bicep circumference. I think this jacket looks better sitting on the waistband as well, as it's still a very slim cut jacket. It's probably the most deceiving of the jackets as it doesn't seem that way on the hanger, but put on, my first thought was 'old Dior Homme'.... so yeah it too is a slim jacket that will look best right on the waistline...

    perfecto - still sizing and waiting on sample, but again, I'll sizing directions as with the other two jackets; s2s, p2p, lengths, arm circumference, yada yada.

    my definition of shoulder to shoulder is where the shoulder seams hit the very corners of the shoulders, where any more would look like the jacket is hanging off the shoulder, and where the seams don't ride up on shoulder. From there too, you should measure down to right past the wristbone with the arm extended, for sleeve length.

    I am more concerned with a one-side pit to pit measurement rather than a chest measurement, but you can give me both, as some people have deceving measurements.

    Also, height and weight and general build, and a general fit pic do help me and give me an idea of the general size I need to be cutting for.


    If you're unsure, break out a light to midweight jacket taht fits you well with non-raglan sleeves and do the shoulder to shoulder, pit to pit, and make some adjustments for how you'd like your leather to fall on you, shorter, longer, etc.
     
  18. PG2G

    PG2G Well-Known Member

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    Los Angeles, CA
    This stuff looks great. Definitely gonna pick some stuff up when I get off business travel. Thank you for saving me from a Margiela leather purchase :p
     
  19. aeglus

    aeglus Well-Known Member

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    so if we do some meet up, no problems on measuring me up so I have something that fits? I'm not kunk but I've got a decent drop
     
  20. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Well-Known Member

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    yeah, that would be no problem at all. I am supposed to meet up with another styleforummer here when I get some time as well, we could make it mini meetup if you're down.
     
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