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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jan 8, 2008
    Location:
    The Highlands of Central Oregon
    

    Shoemaking spent its best years, it's formative years, using flour or potato paste or hide glue.
     
  2. Nick V.

    Nick V. Well-Known Member

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    Nov 12, 2007
    As I'm typing......
    I went through emergency oral surgery this week. Did I ask what was in the 8 shots of Novocain he needed to blast me with? No. Was I stupid for not asking the Doc what exactly was in the stuff?
    Well....If you never hear from me again that will answer that question.
    Didn't even order the pain killer prescription (Vic.) Advil worked fine.Try reading that label. I can't read it even wearing my 300X readers!!!

    It's really not right to accuse and criticize companies (in the shoe biz?) for being deceitful for not divulging the contents in their products. Much less than to alarm a casual user of their impending danger.
     
  3. BackInTheJox

    BackInTheJox Well-Known Member

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    Dec 6, 2011
    Pardon the newbie-ish question, but where's the best place to buy Saphir Renovateur? I doubt there are many places near me that sell it, so I am mostly looking for online. Does it go on sale certain places?
     
  4. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    Aug 12, 2011
    It could be found on eBay or Amazon.

    Or at the website of physical stores such as Sky Valet, Sid Mashburn, Wingtip, etc in the US.

    Or webstore Hanger Project.

    No it doesn't go on sale, but you could find way better deal from International sellers.
     
  5. bespoken pa

    bespoken pa Well-Known Member

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    Varies
    Stick with bick4 just a better less harsh product or perhaps lexol. Does anyone want to venture a guess on how to care to for a moose leather? Thanks in Advance.
     
  6. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jan 8, 2008
    Location:
    The Highlands of Central Oregon
    

    As usual, it depends on tannage....

    Can't go wrong with Bick4.
     
  7. M635Guy

    M635Guy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Aug 21, 2015
    (apologies for the dupe post)

    I bought mine from The Hanger Project. I've ordered several items from them, and the alacrity and communication was great. The only small issue I experienced was addressed by Kirby himself. Saphir seems to be priced pretty much the same anywhere you see it, so I like supporting a small business. I got a chance to talk to him for a few minutes, and he sounds like a solid guy and good businessman.

    My $0.02.

    I own a fair range of Saphir products, and I've been very happy/impressed with all of them. Based on recommendations here I also have and use Bick 4. It seems to be a favorite of some very knowledgeable people here. It is more liquid and less creamy than Saphir Reno, and seems to clean better in some cases than the Reno. I'm not qualified to do much more than state a short-term personal opinion, but the Saphir seems to condition a little better. I'm going to use the Bick 4 on the interior of an old BMW I own. :)
     
  8. Itsuo

    Itsuo Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    468
    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2012
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    

    [​IMG]
    Does it look like this? I suspect they're just from the shape of your heel. The one size fits all contours of RTW shoe heel-cups will often not be ideal for individuals. We have different heel bone-spurs/configurations and when they are pushed up against the heel cup they make most of their contact at the few protruding points. This combined with the fact that the heel cup is reinforced so that it can't easily mould to your heel means you may get points of heightened friction in the cup and something will give over time.

    There may be add on items to help deal with it but I recommend talking with someone who handles shoe repairs in your area.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. dbhdnhdbh

    dbhdnhdbh Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    330
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    Sep 3, 2012
    I am not a shoe or leather professional, so I can afford to be very cautious about what I use. I don't need to satisfy picky customers, turn projects around on any particular schedule or at a competitive price. My only client (me) is far more demanding about health effects than how his shoes look. That said, I use gloves when I use any product not intended for internal consumption or use on unprotected skin. We use liquid hand soap for washing dishes. I wear gloves and work in a well ventilated place when conditioning shoes. I have tried in the past using some of the products aimed at the consumer market for removing polish, like Renomat. I would use that outside with a fan blowing the fumes away from me. Then I decided that if I was going to be that careful about fumes, it was better not to use it at all.

    Keep the above in mind when I say that one should hesitate to lump all chemicals together and assume they are similarly toxic. For the substances that have been used commercially for decades there is a lot of information on health effects.

    Acetone, for example, is pretty safe as long as you stay away from fire and use reasonable ventilation. There are long term studies of the health of workers who were employed for many years in plants that used acetone, even before aggressive OSHA rules about ventilation. They found no adverse effects of routine low level exposure. I would not bathe in it or drink it and its ubiquitous use to remove nail polish is a great reason for people to stop polishing their nails. But there is no evidence it is dangerous.

    My real worry is new chemicals whose toxicities are unknown. Even if they told you it was in there, if no one knows the adverse effects it would be hard to interpret that knowledge.

    For those who are interested, the evil government posts a lot of information about chemical toxicity on the cdc.gov site. You can look up toluene, MEK, acetone, etc.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2015
  10. tharkun

    tharkun Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jul 12, 2015
    

    Not that pronounced but I see where it's going to look like that eventually. Mine are off center though, where the bone sticks out to the right on the back of the right foot and on the right at the side right under the opening of the shoe.

    Now the question would be if getting a half size larger next time and maybe sticking something like a foam pad there might prevent that.
     
  11. M635Guy

    M635Guy Well-Known Member

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    Aug 21, 2015
    Quote:I had some J&M's that wore through, and my cobbler has simply replaced the leather in the back with a thicker glove-leather. I decided to have some other work done, so haven't been able to try them out yet...
     
  12. benhour

    benhour Well-Known Member

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    Jul 23, 2012
    Location:
    Athens
    Judging from the photo you provided these dark areas are 99% from over saturation of water (and some solvents but not a significant amount) that will fade away with time!! You dont need to use any kind of stripper just let them and mother nature ll do the trick for you ! Just brush them a little from time to time!
    Cedar Shoe trees !The easiest and safer way!
    A lot of shoe care products have petroleum distillates in them! Now if they are referring to benzene when they use the general term " petroleum distillates" i cant now but i think benzene is one of them for sure!
     
  13. benhour

    benhour Well-Known Member

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    Jul 23, 2012
    Location:
    Athens
    i dont think you have to get in so much trouble!(+ by getting a bigger shoe and putting a heel pud ll make your foot rest in the "wrong" area inside the shoe ,affect the right balance and weight distribution and altering (moving ) the creasing point)! I think here DWfii can justify this better as a shoemaker! This is a really easy fix for a cobbler to do!!
     
  14. Newberry

    Newberry Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    Hello. Does anybody know how to remove the black mark off these Wolverines? Is it even possible? Thanks!
     
  15. heelguy

    heelguy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jan 23, 2011
    Bought some Saphir neutral creme today and noticed that it said Cordovan on the top. Is it OK to use this on regular calf shoes or is it really just geared to Cordovan? Thanks.
     
  16. shoelover

    shoelover Well-Known Member

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    May 11, 2015
    Location:
    North Carolina
    Just picked these up on eBay. I know they look a bit rough, but the price was right and I kinda like the patina. What would you guys recommend I do first to them when they get here to freshen them up a bit?

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  17. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Well-Known Member

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    I think they look great as is. If they were mine, I'd ask Alden to relast/restore although they probably won't given that they have been worked on by cobblers other than Alden. If they agree to, ask them not to touch the finish.
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2015
  18. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Aug 12, 2011
    Could always inquire if the original manufacture is willing to relast/remake with the same upper. Going to cost more tho.
     
  19. shoelover

    shoelover Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    May 11, 2015
    Location:
    North Carolina
    

    The only work that's been done is the heel and sole toppy.
     
  20. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jul 29, 2009
    

    In the past ANY work that has been done to the outsole, including toppy or heel replacements has resulted in Alden refusing to restore or work on their shoes.
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2015

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