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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    Not bending your knees so much while sitting is hardly treating shoes with religious zeal. Same goes for stepping dog poop.
     
  2. Zapasman

    Zapasman Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    He leads by example.
     
  3. Munky

    Munky Well-Known Member

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    From my latest novel, 'Popes and Shoes'.

    "She could see him through the glass glaze of his office door. Legs outstretched with narry a crease that wasn't meant to be there. Then, quite suddenly, she saw his crisply ironed shoes. She knew, at that moment, that he was the only man she wanted."

    Available at all good bookshops. Check for Kindle version soon.
     
  4. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    Heat is destructive of leather. Period. Maybe moreso on veg tans than on chromes but if you don't know what you're doing you'll end up with fried shoes. The leather will get brittle.

    It's worth noting that rust from iron nails (rust is a slow fire) will carbonize insole or outsole leather. I've pull boots apart and had the heel area of the insole basically fragment and turn to black powder as the clinched nails were being withdrawn. If the slight heat from an oxidizing nail can burn the leather to that degree...well, draw your own conclusions about ironing shoes.
     
    2 people like this.
  5. benhour

    benhour Well-Known Member

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    judging from the photo i think the leather had dried ( a problem on the leather like dwfii pointed out) out and overstretched!! maybe from the shoe trees or if you putted them on without unfastening the straps!!
     
  6. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    Well, that's a good point. Although most shoes experience far more stress when the last is pulled...esp. right at the back of the heel...than they get when put on without unlacing or without a shoe horn. It's certainly a possibility and actually fits better with the fact that the lining is also splitting.
     
  7. Zapasman

    Zapasman Well-Known Member

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  8. Munky

    Munky Well-Known Member

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    A routine that I have found useful on my tan brogues is this: brush, apply Saphir Creme Universelle, leave overnight. In the morning brush then buff further, with the 'nap' side of a large Selvyt cloth. The result is a deep sheen.

    Saphir Creme Universelle is now available in the UK from A Fine Pair of Shoes - a great company to deal with.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. Itsuo

    Itsuo Well-Known Member

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    This might be a stretch (no pun intended), but damage around that area also comes from inserting the shoe tree itself. Occasionally you get the forefoot/head of the tree in shoe but the trailing part might catch around the heel area and the edges can scrape and leave a mark. This is much more likely for the extremely tight fits some makers create between shoe/tree.
     
  10. Zapasman

    Zapasman Well-Known Member

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    I have being wearing many good shoes for many years. I have myself streched some of them badly, put tight shoe tress on in a badly way and so on. I have never been specially refined with any of them (although I care for them). It is the first time it happens to me so I rather think is due to the leather ( kind of dry/irregularity), as DW pointed out.
     
  11. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    Thinking about this further...even with "lasted" trees (hard to get them any tighter), the trees will not stretch the shoe anymore than the original last did. So if the cracking did not occur during lasting or when the last was pulled, it's hard to imagine how it could occur with trees, or even if the shes are put on without a shoe horn or without unlacing. Scratches, even a breakdown of the shape (a crease at the heel) perhaps but the shell in the aforementioned shoes is cracked--the damage is more than just superficial scratches.
     
  12. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    Insertion could be an issue.
     
  13. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    Maybe so, I dunno...I just have a hard time visualizing how it could cause the leather to crack like that, however.
     
  14. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I agree, but in general you can cause some serious havoc putting in trees in you're not careful.
     
  15. aaamax

    aaamax Member

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    that looks like classic dry-rot to me. the leather itself is disintegrating. Maybe I missed it, but who is the maker of your shoes?
     
  16. Joinus

    Joinus Member

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    Gentlemen, I wanted to lean on your expertise in regards to my new j crew perf toe #8's, which is my first shell purchase. First time wearing them, the right toe crease became very light. I wiped them, gave them a very good brushing, applied some reno, and buffed. The light crease on the right boot darkened up nicely. Today is my second time wearing them, and sure enough, the light crease on the right came back almost immediately.

    What has been your experience with this? Will it darken over time, or is it just an inherent characteristic of the shell that won't/can't be changed? Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!

    [​IMG]
     
  17. tifosi

    tifosi Well-Known Member

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    Great boots, first off! That is cordovan bloom. It will happen every time the boot flexes. It is oils being pushed to the surface of the shell. Embrace the bloom. Only way to avoid it is not to wear them.
     
    2 people like this.
  18. patrick_b

    patrick_b Well-Known Member

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    They will lighten in those spots and the only thing you can do is slather dark polish on those spots (which isn't advisable) Note, that the variation in how the leather ages is actually quite coveted. Many folks buy shell for that very reason you mention.

    These are a few years older but you can see they lighten in the same way as yours.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    And lastly, old color 8 compared to new color 8.


    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. Itsuo

    Itsuo Well-Known Member

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    Sage advice and beautiful shoes!

    I have a pair of SWB in #8 that I'm about to let go of because I just don't wear them as much and I refuse to hold on to pair that don't have a least one season a year for me. But every time I see a pair of aged #8s (including my own) I marvel at the development of the patina compared to other calf shoes.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Joinus

    Joinus Member

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    Thanks guys for the advice on what to expect! I was just curious because of the stark contrast between the left and right. Patrick, those boots are killer. I hope that mine age that well. [​IMG]
     

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