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The Official Classic Men's Coats Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dieworkwear, Jan 19, 2013.

  1. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

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    The cold weather lately has me thinking about classic men's coats. This thread is to serve as a dumping ground for inspirational photos and illustrations, as well as a place where we can discuss fabrics, silhouettes, RTW makers, as well as custom projects involving classic men's coats.

    Here are a few images to start us off.

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    Last edited: Jan 19, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  2. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

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    A video of an E. Tautz number. Ignore the California kit.

    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2013
  3. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Jan 20, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  4. FlaneurNYC

    FlaneurNYC Well-Known Member

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    The seaming here is interesting.
     
  5. FlaneurNYC

    FlaneurNYC Well-Known Member

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    Great idea.

    I've been looking at polo coats.

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    Last edited: Jan 20, 2013
  6. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Well-Known Member

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    This is probably my favorite coat.

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    1 person likes this.
  7. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
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    1 person likes this.
  8. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Well-Known Member

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    Perfect.
     
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  9. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

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  10. romafan

    romafan Well-Known Member

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    I think this guy looks great
     
  11. aravenel

    aravenel Well-Known Member

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    Great thread. Overcoats are awesome, and it is surprisingly hard to find the perfect one.
     
  12. aravenel

    aravenel Well-Known Member

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    I've got one almost exactly like this that I love. Vintage PRL, weighs a ton and is super warm.
     
  13. comrade

    comrade Well-Known Member

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  14. Hampton

    Hampton Well-Known Member

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    What kind of brand and fabric is it on your coat spoo?
     
  15. FlaneurNYC

    FlaneurNYC Well-Known Member

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  16. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

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    Like Foo's reference, I've always thought of the term greatcoat as something truly bulky and warm, like what you'd wear out to war with Russia. I also think of it as having a more militaristic look. Though Chris (Despos) said you can use it like you would with "overcoat" and "topcoat." Which I suppose technically are two different words, but in every day usage, seems to get treated as synonymous.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2013
  17. FlaneurNYC

    FlaneurNYC Well-Known Member

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    But aren't we more interested in archaic rules and terminology? (Just kidding, of course.)

    I also always thought of a greatcoat as something extra bulky and severe, as the name might imply —and had always used topcoat and overcoat interchangeably. It was interesting to learn that they actually meant two different things at one point.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2013
  18. comrade

    comrade Well-Known Member

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    As one who is archaic, I recall three classifications from my formative years:

    topcoat- relatively lightweight wool or wool gabardine ( don't see these
    much any more)

    overcoat: medium weight, dressy fly front, or button through, or tweedy
    with balmacaan collar and raglan sleeves.

    greatcoat- very heavy wool or lined with fur or alpaca, often double-breasted.
    I have an Invertere "monster" in heavy gray melton cut like a trench coat
    with a belt. Served me well when I lived in Chicago.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2013
    2 people like this.
  19. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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    You will appreciate this timely story. I was talking today with two friends. One of them went to get his overcoat - it is a new Grenfell-made stormcoat for O'Connel's. He had told me about it before but I had never seen it. I told him that I remember O'Connell's calling me when they had made it up, because they sold me one of the last Invertere made ones they had, which my wife gave away to a shelter. O'Connell's tried to help me track down a replacement, but couldn't. As I mentioned here before, and told him, that had started me on a hunt to find a replacement - I eventually created a mini Invertere museum with three alpaca lined stormcoats (one I gave away), an alpaca lined bomber and about four or others, so by the time O'Connell's remade them, I was already overstocked. I told him to wait there and I would show him the original, and ran out to get mine. In the meantime, our third friend went to get his coat. It was also an Invertere alpaca lined stormcoat, but made for Paul Stuart. So there we were, three of us standing there in more or less the same coat, with the only difference being the outer fabric (mine was calvary twill and the others were melton and an olive twill).
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2013
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  20. FlaneurNYC

    FlaneurNYC Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Jan 26, 2013

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