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The Official Artisanal "streetwear" footwear (boots, shoes, sandals) thread (Guidi, CCP, Augusta, M.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by eckblk, Jun 10, 2011.

  1. DividedWay

    DividedWay Well-Known Member

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    Oh the welting shit again. Guidi is Goodyear welted, layer 0, IS and MA+ are Blake welted, A1923 is hand welted, and I don't know about CCP. There is some variation, but this is the majority of what I see.

    Now then. Quality wise, Blake stitching actually has less glue than Goodyear welting. It can be redone by a competing cobbler with a Blake machine. More importantly, especially for IS and MA+, Goodyear welts would look horrible for the aesthetic. Blake stitching is used because the aesthetic is about simplicity and the leather, and having a massive welt jutting out would throw a wrench in the works. Blake is different, but not worse, than Goodyear welting. Hand welting is better than both. We usually Vibram the boots and shoes in here anyway, so it doesn't matter.
     
    3 people like this.
  2. ceoceo

    ceoceo Well-Known Member

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    Asked many times before, but mostly for folks in the East Coast.

    Where do I resole my guidis, preferably in the MidWest? Thanks
     
  3. onijo84

    onijo84 Well-Known Member

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    How do you know?
     
  4. DividedWay

    DividedWay Well-Known Member

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    Atelier posted last September that A1923 was switching to all hand welted shoes.
     
  5. onijo84

    onijo84 Well-Known Member

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    Afaik, the only ones that are actually hand welted are from the mmoria range and the L0 rendenbach derbies. What were they using/doing prior to the switch?
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2014
  6. DividedWay

    DividedWay Well-Known Member

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    The l0 redenbach were Goodyear welted, not hand welted I believe. A1923 was using a variety of welts, but mostly Goodyear before switching
     
  7. Magic1

    Magic1 Well-Known Member

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    I highly doubt that guidi is goodyear welted.

    The difference between blake and good year in regards to styling really depends on how it's done. Though some of ma+ shoes could not have as clean of a line with goodyear, the double sole models could all have been done with good year (though the weren't). Just look at george cleverly or edward green goodyear welted lines to see how clean they can look.

    Simone also said he worked for carpe diem, and that wasn't true. I don't believe they're hand welted.
     
  8. DividedWay

    DividedWay Well-Known Member

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    Turned up a 2006 article citing Simone as part of CD though. But more importantly, none of these shoes are going to whither in a year. Put protective soles on, don't worry about welts.

    Article: http://jcreport.com/the-great-secession/
     
  9. Magic1

    Magic1 Well-Known Member

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    I read on sz that that was just flat out wrong, but maybe that was wrong..
     
  10. DividedWay

    DividedWay Well-Known Member

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    From GBS- The designer of Augusta worked and trained as an assistant with Maurizio and has been able to benefit from all the resources, know-how and advantages doing so. Whether, he will be able to carve out his own truly individual thing and hang in there long enough to survive what many believe is the toughest business in the world...remains to be seen. He had a great master. Hopefully he was a good student. We wish him well.
     
  11. a bag of it

    a bag of it Well-Known Member

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    Mar 2, 2010
    Ok, you guys have been really helpful, hopefully this will be my last post on the subject.

    I have decided to order the 992 in white, something that you think would be simple. But there are 4 different codes (at least) for white and I can only find pictures of 2 of them.

    112t = bone color
    906t = warm white
    B34t = milk (FW14)
    2001t = clean white (SS14)

    And pictures of different leathers in the same color code look different or different pictures of the same leather will look different because of lighting. Perhaps I am overthinking all of this and I should just choose one, but I like the make the most informed decision possible.

    From what I gather, the 906t, which is the one I posted earlier, is slightly off white with an warm almost yellowish tint. For the others I can't find reliable pictures and the names aren't really revealing at all. If someone has pictures of any of them that would be great. I imagine milk is hard/impossible to come by if it is only fw14.
     
  12. gettoasty

    gettoasty Well-Known Member

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    Kangaroo and horse

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The bone only saw one wear in its time with me so far =\
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2014
    5 people like this.
  13. a bag of it

    a bag of it Well-Known Member

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    Alright after doing a little more research, here is my conclusion. Let me know if you all agree.

    112t/bone - off white (grey tint)
    906t/warm white - off white (yellowish or sand tint)
    2001t/clean white - bright ass pure white
    B34t/milk - TBD/no one knows/hasn't been released yet
     
  14. ClambakeSkate

    ClambakeSkate Well-Known Member

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    ignorance is bliss.

    any white will become dirty very soon. buy and enjoy.
     
    2 people like this.
  15. el Bert

    el Bert Well-Known Member

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    Dirty? I haven't gotten my Guidi dirty and they've gotten easily 20+ wears.
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. bdude

    bdude Well-Known Member

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    ^^ get first or second color and dirty the fuck out of it
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2014
  17. Ariiam

    Ariiam Well-Known Member

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    Oct 16, 2012
    Really need someone's help:

    Does anyone have info on how CCP's AM/2521SX tornado fit? I think it's the 2009 model.

    The office advised me it fits TTS and should take CCP 6, but everywhere else i've read (here and sz), it's generally taken that the model runs at least half size large.

    For reference, I wear EU 40 guidi backzips, 40 for SLP sneakers, 39 for Lanvin sneakers
     
  18. eckblk

    eckblk Well-Known Member

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    you need a 5uk.

    Nice to see a 2009 tornado can still be made- CUBA or COIL?
     
  19. Ariiam

    Ariiam Well-Known Member

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    Thanx for that, cleared it up :D

    Um, I was offered 'LUC-PTC' which also kinda confused me. I did google, but apparently both LUC and COIL PTC are both object dyed horse cordovan (?)
     
  20. eckblk

    eckblk Well-Known Member

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    San Antonio
    different batches of leather- more-less the same but each had their own distinct characteristics

    example would be-

    JUICY-PTC (CALF)
    vs
    KALB-PTC (CALF)

    ** JUICY was said to be superior is every way. Thicker too I believe.
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2014

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