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borderline

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ALDEN FAQ

Compiled by borderline using the combined wisdom of "The Official Alden Thread" on Styleforum and other web sources.

Before Buying
What are the different lasts and how do they fit relative to one another?
http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/13590#post_4526910
*See below for more sizing information

What do the different cordovan colors look like?
http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/21165#post_5102551
http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/21300#post_5108188

I feel like I'm buying too many Aldens, what can I do?
1) Give up, there is no hope.
2) Stop reading this thread

Why do they call it the Indy boot?
http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/21750#post_5128364
http://www.theraider.net/information/indy_gear/boots.php
http://www.indygear.com/igboots.html

Are Alden shoes worth the price?
At the end of the day, the main benefits to Alden shoes are
1) High quality Horween leathers (Chromexcel, cordovan, and I assume suede) in unique colors
2) Willingness to work with retailers (many of whom work with customers) to develop special styles
3) Variety of well-fitting lasts
4) Recraft-ability (not necessarily by Alden, but by a variety of cobblers)
5) Decent price point compared to shoemakers that work with similar materials
6) Traditional aesthetic (high quality and stylish in a "handsome," "gentlemanly" way)
7) Alden shoes are pretty comfortable, can be very eye catching (cordovan, suede, etc tend to get tons of compliments) and overall enhance one's look.
The obvious downsides are
1) Poor quality control, particularly as they ramp production
2) Low / inconsistent availability
(Alcibiades)

After Buying
How should I break in my shoes?
Use “Mac’s Break-in Procedure”:
Shoes should be worn only on carpeting on three different days for a minimum of one hour in order to ascertain that the fit is proper.

What is the "pen trick"?
You put a pen where your foot joints are and then crease the shoe. This way the crease is set exactly where your joint bends and the crease is nice and even. People report varying levels of success with this, and it is generally thought to be more important for the PTB.

Will my cordovan shoes stretch?
The consensus is that cordovan stretches very little, if at all.

Care and Cleaning
How should I clean my cordovan shoes or boots?
Use the “Mac Method”:
1) Clean shoes with damp cloth

2) Brush vigorously with a horsehair brush

3) Buff with smooth cloth

4) Use wax after a minimum of fifteen wearings

http://theagatineeyelet.wordpress.com/2010/10/05/the-mac-method/

Some other cleaning advice from Alden of Carmel
1. Do not use 'neutral' polish
2. Do not clean cordovan shoes using saddle soap
3. Do not attempt to clean cordovan shoes using petroleum distillates or cleaning fluids
4. Do not use any spray shines or aerosol type waterproofs
5. Do not attempt to dry wet shell cordovan shoes with heat or a heater. Wipe them dry, and allow them to dry naturally
6. Do not attempt to polish shell cordovan shoes while wet
http://www.alden-of-carmel.com/index.cfm/care_of_shell_cordovan.htm

My shoes are dry and/or discolored in the creases. How can I fix this?
Alden SF recommends using a small amount of cream in the creases. This can moisturize the area and also bring up some of the natural color in the leather. Most people use either Saphir Renovateur or Venetian Shoe Cream.
http://www.hangerproject.com/saphir-renovateur.html
http://oakstreetbootmakers.com/accessories/venetian-shoe-cream

My cordovan shoes got wet and there are tiny round marks or bubbles. What should I do?
1) Next time try the Alden Leather Defender
2) Brush them for awhile
3) Try some Renovateur
4) Try the deer bone treatment
5) Just wait, it will go away evenutally

Restoration

Will Alden put a different sole on my shoes?
Alden Restoration will now only recraft your shoes using original materials. If you want to put on a different sole, your best bet may be B. Nelson.
http://www.bnelsonshoes.com/

Can I have speed hooks converted to eyelets?
B Nelson will do it for $12 per eyelet (not per pair). A standard Alden boot with 4 pairs of speed hooks would therefore run $96. The top four eyelets would be off-centered with the bottom five, which is often done to compensate for the oblong size of the speed hooks.
Here's an example: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/18000#post_4958968

I want new shoelaces for my Indy Boots. What are my options?
1) Alden will mail you a pair if you ask. http://www.aldenshoe.com/
2) The Alden Madison store will sell you waxed laces for ~$6. http://aldenmadisonny.com/
3) Red Wing model 9011 will work, request them here http://www.redwingheritage.com/laces/

Acronyms
LWB: Longwing blucher
SWB: Shortwing blucher
PTB: Plain toe blucher
LHS: Leisure hand sewn (a loafer)

A video by Epaulet about the Alden factory


Cordovan: A Photo Gallery of Some of Mac's Shoes
Whiskey: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/11760#post_4267010
Ravello: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/11760#post_4266962
Cigar: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/11745#post_4266729
#8: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/11745#post_4266673

Online Purchasing Options
Leather Soul http://www.leathersoulhawaii.com/category/brands/alden/
The Shoe Mart http://www.theshoemart.com/alden-shoes/bt-ald.html
Alden Shop http://www.aldenshop.com/
O'Connells http://shop.oconnellsclothing.com/dress_shoes.php
Sherman Brothers http://www.shermanbrothers.com/brand...S&BrandCode=AL
J. Crew http://www.jcrew.com/mens_category/s...enForJCrew.jsp
Leffot http://blog.leffot.com/category/footwear/alden-brands/
Ben Silver http://www.bensilver.com/Alden-American-Shoes.html
Orvis http://www.orvis.com/
Moulded Shoe http://mouldedshoe.com/alden1.html
Unionmade http://www.unionmadegoods.com/alden_Mens.html
Blackbird http://www.blackbirdballard.com/Alden_Mens.html
Context http://www.contextclothing.com/brand.php?brand=Alden
Epaulet http://www.epauletshop.com/servlet/t...den/Categories
Renners Fine Boots & Shoes http://www.rennersbootsshoes.com/aldenshoes1.html
Sky Valet http://www.skyvalet1.com/Alden.aspx
Frans Boone Store https://www.fransboonestore.com/en/store/brands/alden.html
The Bureau http://www.thebureaubelfast.com/shop/brand/58/alden/
Alden of Carmel http://www.alden-of-carmel.com/index.cfm/shoes.htm
J. Gilbert http://www.jgilbertfootwear.com/?q=node/90
Need Supply http://needsupply.com/
Tres Bien http://www.tresbienshop.com/
Francos http://www.francos.com/
Barneys http://www.barneys.com/
************
Anecdotal sizing information:
I find the Modified last (for my foot) is wider than the Barrie. 9D Modified fits me great, while 9D in Barrie is a snug fit, the E width for me in Barrie is too wide. I find the Trubalance last to be a little bit bigger overall last to the Barrie, whereas the Modified has a more tapered mid foot under the arch, opening up to a wider forefoot. (NewYorkRanger)

Normal size is 10.5D, I take a 10D in Barrie and 10.5E in Leydon (borderline)

I wear a 9 D in the Barrie and i've also tried a 9E in the Barrie. I won some of each and wear them both. The 9D is a little snug and the 9E is a little loose. I have a pair of 9.5 D leydon lasted LWB and they fit great. I went with a 9.5D on the grant.
9.5 E in the Dalton and most all AE's
9D in the truebalance (almost perfect fit)
9.5 D in grant ( perfect fit)
9.5 D in leydon (perfect fit)

(Pastor)

I wear 6.5D Barrie and the 7D Grants fits well for me (actually 6.5E also works fine). (dsmivtr)

If you size down 1/2 for barrie (say 10E to 9.5E), don't try to size down 1 and go wider (to 9EE) (kippy).

the best way to determine fit and comfort is to ensure that the ball of your foot is at the widest part of the shoes. some people may have short toes and some people may have longer toes but using that area as a reference point has always worked well for me. Also there is just a feel when you put on a pair of shoes if it feels slightly too large or slightly too tight. If you think it fits you well and is not causing any pain or slipping off when you lace them, then they are likely the right size.(MiniW)
 
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Joenobody0

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If my Aldens are not gong to be worn for 2-3 weeks should I take the shoe trees out?


I tend to take them out after a couple of days. I'm more particular about shell (especially if it's unlined).
 

Sui Generis

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I didn't get much of a response to the idea of an Alden FAQ, yet we see the same questions repeatedly. This is a start. We still need info mainly on sizing questions. Other ideas welcome, maybe PM me some questions or preferably questions with answers.
ALDEN FAQ

Before Buying
What are the different lasts and how do they fit relative to one another?
http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/13590#post_4526910
After Buying
How should I break in my shoes?
Use “Mac’s Break-in Procedure”:
Shoes should be worn only on carpeting on three different days for a minimum of one hour in order to ascertain that the fit is proper.
What is the "pen trick"?
You put a pen where your foot joints are and then crease the shoe. This way the crease is set exactly where your joint bends and the crease is nice and even. People report varying levels of success with this, and it is generally thought to be more important for the PTB.
Care and Cleaning
How should I clean my cordovan shoes or boots?
Use the “Mac Method”:
1) Clean shoes with damp cloth

2) Brush vigorously with a horsehair brush

3) Buff with smooth cloth

4) Use wax after a minimum of fifteen wearings

http://theagatineeyelet.wordpress.com/2010/10/05/the-mac-method/
My shoes are dry and/or discolored in the creases. How can I fix this?
Alden SF recommends using a small amount of cream in the creases. This can moisturize the area and also bring up some of the natural color in the leather. Most people use either Saphir Renovateur or Venetian Shoe Cream.
http://www.hangerproject.com/saphir-renovateur.html
http://oakstreetbootmakers.com/accessories/venetian-shoe-cream
Restoration

Will Alden put a different sole on my shoes?
Alden Restoration will now only recraft your shoes using original materials. If you want to put on a different sole, your best bet may be B. Nelson.
http://www.bnelsonshoes.com/
Can I have speed hooks converted to eyelets?
B Nelson will do it for $12 per eyelet (not per pair). A standard Alden boot with 4 pairs of speed hooks would therefore run $96. The top four eyelets would be off-centered with the bottom five, which is often done to compensate for the oblong size of the speed hooks.
Here's an example: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/18000#post_4958968
I want new shoelaces for my Indy Boots. What are my options?
1) Alden will mail you a pair if you ask. http://www.aldenshoe.com/
2) The Alden Madison store will sell you waxed laces for ~$6. http://aldenmadisonny.com/
3) Red Wing model 9011 will work, request them here http://www.redwingheritage.com/laces/
Acronyms
LWB: Longwing blucher
SWB: Shortwing blucher
PTB: Plain toe blucher
LHS: Leisure hand sewn (a loafer)
Cordovan: A Photo Gallery of Some of Mac's Shoes
Whiskey: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/11760#post_4267010
Ravello: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/11760#post_4266962
Cigar: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/11745#post_4266729
#8: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/11745#post_4266673
Online Purchasing Options
Leather Soul http://www.leathersoulhawaii.com/category/brands/alden/
The Shoe Mart http://www.theshoemart.com/alden-shoes/bt-ald.html
Alden Shop http://www.aldenshop.com/
O'Connells http://shop.oconnellsclothing.com/dress_shoes.php
Sherman Brothers http://www.shermanbrothers.com/brand...S&BrandCode=AL
J. Crew http://www.jcrew.com/mens_category/s...enForJCrew.jsp
Leffot http://blog.leffot.com/category/footwear/alden-brands/
Ben Silver http://www.bensilver.com/Alden-American-Shoes.html
Orvis http://www.orvis.com/
Moulded Shoe http://mouldedshoe.com/alden1.html
Unionmade http://www.unionmadegoods.com/alden_Mens.html
Blackbird http://www.blackbirdballard.com/Alden_Mens.html
Context http://www.contextclothing.com/brand.php?brand=Alden
Epaulet http://www.epauletshop.com/servlet/t...den/Categories
Renners Fine Boots & Shoes http://www.rennersbootsshoes.com/aldenshoes1.html
Sky Valet http://www.skyvalet1.com/Alden.aspx



A couple of additional Online Purchasing Options:

Frans Boone Store https://www.fransboonestore.com/en/store/brands/alden.html
The Bureau http://www.thebureaubelfast.com/shop/brand/58/alden/
Alden of Carmel http://www.alden-of-carmel.com/index.cfm/shoes.htm
J. Gilbert http://www.jgilbertfootwear.com/?q=node/90
 
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furo

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You guys seem to have head on your shoulders, and while the soul may not be for the MCer who wears Aldens, these types of soles are all over SW&D (where this thread is located btw). They may be why you didn't want em, but with raw denim (it is a denim co's collab) these are SICK. You also have the option to have the sole replaced as well, and since they're at a non-shell price, would be a pretty unique custom job. The sole though in my mind is the best part of this shoe. None of my other shoes are as comfortable as these.


Sure they may be comfy. But for Aldens, they come off as gimmicky to me... as if they're catering to a trend or something. Just my take on it, but I wouldn't wear a pair of Aldens like that...
 

Alcibiades

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The natural chromexcel Self Edge boot looks a lot better than I expected in NYRanger's fit pics. Not necessarily my style but the boot does look very good. To each his own.

That brings me to the navy suede boot from Leffot - great looking boot, but I've never been a fan of the red brick sole, so I'm gonna pass. Those boots would look killer on a double waterlock sole. My navy needs are covered for now with Tassel's navy suede unlined chukka....
 

fritzl

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You guys seem to have head on your shoulders, and while the soul may not be for the MCer who wears Aldens, these types of soles are all over SW&D (where this thread is located btw). They may be why you didn't want em, but with raw denim (it is a denim co's collab) these are SICK. You also have the option to have the sole replaced as well, and since they're at a non-shell price, would be a pretty unique custom job. The sole though in my mind is the best part of this shoe. None of my other shoes are as comfortable as these.


well rob, it's much easier and i don't buy in this sw&d versus mc rivalery.

these soles are used for "gesundheitsschuhe" in the vain of birkenstock. i only see them in retirement homes. each to his own. no worries.
 

El Argentino

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I can appreciate this recent frenzy over blue suede, but to me it's just a bit too...

 
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