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The (hopefully) definitive thread on NYC tailors

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by tgfny, Jun 20, 2005.

  1. OxxfordSJLINY

    OxxfordSJLINY Well-Known Member

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    Edited with the groups reccomendations. Please make any suggestions to improve it.

    I propose that there are 3 levels of tailors for alterations and would love to know everone's favorite in all categories.

    Category 1) "Money is no object, I need my Anderson & Sheppard suit alterred and I don't fly to London commercially now that the Concorde is no more and my G-V is in the shop."
    Basically a tailor to whom you could trust anything. Doesn't have to be expensive, but most likely is.

    Raphael- recommended by several
    Logsdail 9 E 53rd St, New York, 10022 - (212) 752-5030
    Corvato 510 Madison Ave, New York, 10022 - (212) 980-4980
    Raphael (212) 888-6887

    Category 2) Value for money. All-around tailor that provides good value for basic things i.e. can sew button holes, but you might not trust him recutting pants.

    Wilfred's 18 W 23rd St, New York, 10010 - (212) 242-3030
    Bhambi 14 E 60th St, New York, 10022 - (212) 935-5379
    Alexis 242 E 77th St, New York, 10021 - (212) 717-9412
    Peppino 780 Lexington Ave, New York, 10021 - (212) 832-3844


    Category 3) "I'm not gonna pay a lot for this muffler." Can handle hems, cuffs and the basic things, but the best thing about the alterations is the price.

    Central Cleaners on E. 81st St. 212-249-8649 $10 for cuffs or hemming trousers.

    Any other suggestions would be appreciated.


    Don't forget Vincent Nicolosi in category one. Vincent Nicolosi suits range from $3,000 (which is for a two-piece suit-which consists of a jacket and one pair of pants made out of the least expensive fabrics that Vincent Nicolosi has to offer) to $7,000 (which is for a four-piece suit-consisting of a jacket, a vest and two similar or identical pairs of pants made out of the most expensive fabrics that Vincent Nicolosi has to offer). William Fioravanti and Liana Lee also belong in category one.

    In category two, don't forget Giliberto Designs (there is no Giliberti Designs) and Mr. Ned.

    Victor Talbots in the Greenvale Plaza in Greenvale NY (in the North Shore of Nassau County on Long Island-not in New York City-about 4/10th of the way between Queens and Sufffolk) also has bespoke that they call custom. If anybody here has experience (remember, negative experiences count just as much as positive experiences do, FWIW) with Victor Talbots "custom", please share your experience with us? Thank you in advance. Also, FWIW, I am guessing that Victor Talbots custom is category one but I don't know for sure.
     
  2. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Well-Known Member

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    ^^^ Is there anybody left who actually claims that Nicolosi is any good?
     
  3. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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    ^^^ Is there anybody left who actually claims that Nicolosi is any good?

    I have seen some very good suits made by Nicolosi. He cuts a DB for a friend of mine, which looks perfect.

    But as you know, there have been pictures of pretty crappy stuff posted here and also some voluble complaints from credible people. It seems like every tailor has his detractors, and I wouldn't be surprised if the complaints, even about the talented ones, are occasionally accurate. Some matches just don't work.
     
  4. lefty

    lefty Well-Known Member

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    I was pulled into S.E.W. in Nolita last week and chatted with an older fellow about their suits.

    Anybody have a suit made by Scott Allen Wasserberger?

    Charming guy.

    lefty
     
  5. SuitingStyle

    SuitingStyle Well-Known Member

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    I will put in another pitch for Bhambi's. I've had alterations on 3-4 suits done there. The work was excellent, and the tailor readily agreed to whatever additional changes I asked about (i.e. trousers or jacket taken in further than they initially were).

    Cost was not cheap--about $150-200 per suit (including taking in the jacket at the darts, as well as collar/shoulder work).

    I will add that Bhambi's bread & butter is NOT alterations, but rather full custom, made-on-the-premises business wear. There is an impressive collection of celebrity client photos on the wall.

    I have several colleagues that spend $1,600-$2,200 per suit and get excellent results. Unfortunately, my budget still dictates buying suits at BG at 40-50% off, then finding a tailor to do the adjustments.

    As far as Ramon goes, I went once, but felt the prices were essentially the same as Bhambi's, with the crew "not yet ready for prime-time".



    What kinda work do you have them do that totaled up to 200. Does it include trouser work ( waist reduction and seat alterations I need). 200+ is how much I usually spent, but looking to try someone different.
     
  6. T&A Fan

    T&A Fan Member

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    New York City
    What kinda work do you have them do...

    Fairly substantial work, including waist and seat on trousers, plus slimming of jacket and work on the collar. I would definitely give them a try.
     
  7. bobdobalina

    bobdobalina Well-Known Member

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    Erm. I think my tailor's charging me more every time-- sort of upping his rates to see wht he can get away with. I won't slur him, as I may be wrong, but I'm curious, Manhattanites, what would you expect to pay for:

    1. On an overcoat, having the sides and sleeves taken in, and sleeves shortened?
    2. On a suit, adding two working button holes, lengthening the sleeves half an inch (not from the shoulders), and taking a waist and seat in?
     
  8. gdl203

    gdl203 Well-Known Member

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    Erm. I think my tailor's charging me more every time-- sort of upping his rates to see wht he can get away with. I won't slur him, as I may be wrong, but I'm curious, Manhattanites, what would you expect to pay for:

    1. On an overcoat, having the sides and sleeves taken in, and sleeves shortened?
    2. On a suit, adding two working button holes, lengthening the sleeves half an inch (not from the shoulders), and taking a waist and seat in?


    1. $60-70 for the sides + $20-30 for sleeve shortening. What do you mean by "sleeves taken in"? Slimming the sleeves through their length?
    2. $40-50 for sleeve length and buttonholes + $20-30 for the pants waist and seat
     
  9. bobdobalina

    bobdobalina Well-Known Member

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    Yes, by "taken in," I meant "slimmed".

    And it seems that I'm paying just a hair under 2x the numbers that you cited.

    I don't remember my first few alterations with him to be as expensive as the last few. Which suggests that just maybe my tailor is incrementally trying to sniff out the top part of my willingness-to-pay scale. Which will cost him my business.
     
  10. gdl203

    gdl203 Well-Known Member

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    I've never had coat sleeves slimmed down so I couldn't say how much it costs but it sounds like a delicate operation since the armhole cannot really be reduced accordingly...

    My estimates above are pretty much what I have paid at Wilfred's for these alterations.
     
  11. chorse123

    chorse123 Well-Known Member

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    Here are some Cardelino buttonholes:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  12. samblau

    samblau Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Midtown Manhattan
    I went to Wilfred's for the first time last week and am awaiting the results. I found that the pricing was a bit high for my taste however it was also my first trip to a midtown tailor. Cutting functioning button-holes for $80 a suit I am ok with however $30 to adjust the waist on a pair of corduroys seems very high. The tailor was very nice however the service seemed a bit rushed given the extent of the alterations he was talking about doing. All in all...two suits that required few alteration, a sport jacket and two pairs of pants cost me nearly $400 to alter. I'll report ack here with results.
     
  13. psykopath515

    psykopath515 Member

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    Feb 24, 2008
    So I have a suit that the blazer that needs to be taken in and shortened and the pants need to be shortened and the waist needs to be adjusted. I'm thinking of going to Hong Kong Tailor Jack, but I am not sure as I hear he is very busy and somewhat expensive. Any thoughts?
     
  14. dr.no

    dr.no Well-Known Member

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    ouch, Bhambi's has raised their working buttonhole prices to $12 per.
     
  15. bobdobalina

    bobdobalina Well-Known Member

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    ouch, Bhambi's has raised their working buttonhole prices to $12 per.

    Which makes Cardelino at $45 per suit (for nice buttonholes that appear handmade) quite the steal.

    On the subject, to give my two cents, I've had Pedro do two jackets for me and I've been pleased. His son is doing some trousers for me now. I'll be following up in a week when I get them back. My last bill for a suit (jacket sides taken in, sleeves shortened, working cuffs, neck taken down, pant waist and seat taken in, and pants hemmed) was $150, and the work was fine. Additionally, Pedro pins jackets very carefully. He's thorough, and he even asked me whether, in my eyes, the skirt looked proportional to the rest of the jacket.

    Bhambi's clearly does good work but I more or less quit them after I noticed a bad case of price creep. $300 for a suit's worth of alterations-- no major surgeries-- is a bit steep.

    Dynasty had done fine by me until an unfortunate mishap. I asked for surgeon's cuffs, and when I went to pick up the jacket, I noticed that they put faux buttonholes on my cuffs with a good inch and a half between each button. Not, mind you, between the center of each button, but between the close edges of each button. Had they sewn normal looking faux buttonholes, I would have chalked it up to miscommunication. But what they did was so horrid (albeit reversible), I knew that there was someone in that shop who had no earthly business working on such an expensive (to me) suit. To top it off, it wasn't ready when it was promised (18 days(!)), either. Just not worth the risk, in my opinion.
     
  16. SuitingStyle

    SuitingStyle Well-Known Member

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    The only complain about Cardilino I have at this point (I've used them quite a bit over the past year, altered about 6 suits, all major alterations), is that they are a bit sloppy with the lining restiching after a coat is shortened.

    This causes the flap in the back (double vented jacket) to have a puffy look becuase they didn't re-aline the lining back flat enough. Kinda bothered me, becuase now the flap won't sit flat against my ass, looks like the jacket vents are being pull open.
     
  17. Reborn

    Reborn Well-Known Member

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    Any of you happen to know any Westchester tailors for minor alterations?

    I live and work up here and I really do want to lug all my clothes down to the city for minor stuff.
     
  18. spreadcollar

    spreadcollar Well-Known Member

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    Looking for a dress shirt tailor in NYC... I will bring in a shirt for them to copy the body. How much am I looking at paying for this and where to go?
     
  19. Clench Million

    Clench Million Well-Known Member

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    I did some searches through this thread but didn't find anything.... so sorry if this is a repeat,

    but does anyone know any decent tailors for alterations on the UWS (specifically Morningside Heights?)

    Thanks!
     
  20. kadidal

    kadidal Member

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    Jan 19, 2008
    Here are my contributions, from someone who lives in the East Village and generally won't go anywhere outside of walking range:

    Pricier:
    Eddie at Rothman's -- After seeing a jacket my roommate had taken in an inch and a half in the shoulders, something I previously thought impossible/inadvisable, I've had him take in a suit almost an inch in the shoulders plus take in the waist quite a bit ($120), and take in four other suit jackets at the waist ($40) and occasionally fix other problems (roll below collar,with waist, $60). Nice work all around, and very nice guy. Took a week for everything, all ready on time.

    Middling:
    Wilfried -- I used to use him for sleeves and hems when he had a place on 1st Ave. and 9th Street. Always high-quality work, very good measuring and always honest about what not to get done.

    Ramon Tailor:
    Lengthened difficult sleeve on a suit I bought used on eBay really well, and lovely job of pattern-matching the windowpane on the cuffs of the pants (with a half-depth cuff) on that same suit. But $47 for sleeves is quite a lot.

    Cheap:
    Kings Cleaners, East 6th St. betw. 2d & 3d Aves -- proprietor will take break from reading Chinese newspaper to hem pants for $8, the cheapest I've ever heard of in NYC. (I haven't had him do cuffs yet; straight hem work was quite excellent.) Doing sleeves on a Uniqlo coat for $15 right now. Has no idea about measurement; mark your stuff before you bring it down.
     

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